Table of contents for Jun/Jul 2023 in go!

The Garden Route, with Plettenberg Bay as home base, has some of the best hiking and mountain-biking trails in South Africa. Now, thanks to the new Plett Trails web app, various routes are safely accessible to any intrepid hiker or biker looking to explore the mountains between the Tsitsikamma and Harkerville. The web app includes directions, maps, distances, contact details, permit information, difficulty ratings, elevation readings and frequently updated information on the condition of the various trails. You can also link to a Google Map of the trail in question so you can plan your route. There are currently 29 trails listed, 16 of which have Green Flag status (the hiking equivalent of a Blue Flag beach). How do I get it? Go to pletttrails.co.za – scan or click the…

DWARSRIVIER VALLEY “It's heaven,” says a resident who grew up in Kylemore. “You feel the presence of the mountain,” says someone who recently moved to Pniël. It's rare to visit a place with such a magical energy. The Dwarsrivier Valley is wedged between the Groot and Klein Drakenstein mountains, Simonsberg and Botmanskop. If you approach from Stellenbosch towards Franschhoek, you drive down Helshoogte Pass with Kylemore on the right, then Johannesdal and Pniël. Behind Pniël to the right, hidden behind Boschendal, is Lanquedoc – or “Lyntjiedok” as it's known locally. Many well-known wine estates surround the villages. Mountains tower over the villages and trees keep their charm from view. But when you turn off the R310 and venture into their streets, you discover communities built on shared values, faith and…

BAVIAANSKLOOF It feels like I'm alone in a landscape where the last humans and domesticated animals have long since ground to dust. My riding partners are miles behind. This morning, on a smooth gravel road that gradually sweeps downhill for kilometres, with only slight inclines here and there, I give my bike free rein. It's overcast and there are gunmetal clouds stacking up over the Groot Winterhoek Mountains. Cool but not cold – the perfect weather for long-distance cycling, provided it doesn't rain. A once stately Karoo farmhouse, now a ruin, drifts past. I wonder what happened to the people who lived there? There's no sheep, cow, goat or chicken to be seen here, no fencing either. It's just me, my thoughts and the hypnotic sound of bicycle tyres crunching…

PORTFOLIO In issue #185 we featured a pick of our favourites from the 2022 edition of the Natural History Museum's Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition. More than 50 000 entries were received but the judges could only award 100 winners. For the exhibition in London, the judges selected another 25 photos and asked the public to choose their favourite – either online or by using the interactive screens at the museum. This is the result! After a record 60 446 votes, Sascha Fonseca's snow leopard received the People's Choice Award. The shot – and the four other highly commended images in the category – will be showcased alongside all the winners until the exhibition closes in July. Wildlife Photographer of the Year offers a global platform for amateur and…

Lydenburg (official name Mashishing) in Mpumalanga has a rich history – a history in which the farm Spekboom features prominently. These days, it's the home of Johan and Louise Kruger and their sons Luan and Hanru. Johan is a sixth-generation Kruger to live on the farm, which was purchased in 1846. In its prime, the farm produced yellow peaches and other drupes; today it's a hideaway for travellers seeking serenity and simple comforts. The Lapamanti camp is along the Spekboom River, where the Krugers once had family picnics. A lapa was built, which was eventually modified to become the current lounge area and open-air kitchen, and three timber cottages were added. Each cottage consists of an openplan room, a kitchenette with a kettle, two-plate stove and sink, and a bathroom.…

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Best time to visit Porterville? Year-round, although it can get pretty hot in high summer. “We have incredible winters here,”says Eugene Calitz from The Heritage Country House. “We have rainy spells but the wind dies down completely.”Paragliding season is from November to February. How to get there? Porterville is about 150km north of Cape Town. Drive there via the N1 and the R44, or via the N7 to Piketberg and down. Groceries and fuel: There's a Spar in town, plus an OK Foods outlet and a BP fuel station. The Porterville Community Market takes place on the showgrounds on the corner of Park and Du Toit streets on the second Saturday of the month. Stock up on home-made products including jam, biscuits, rusks, bread, fresh vegetables…

What were the highlights? I was overwhelmed by the sincerity of the residents. I walked the streets to take photos and people would stop to talk to me and invite me into their homes – a complete stranger! Why should people visit the valley? It's a hidden paradise – the scenery is indescribable. But it's also changing as the older generation passes on and property companies discover and develop the area. What surprised you? The hiking and cycling trails in the Banhoek Conservancy are well maintained and the views are wonderful. I also loved Lanquedoc. It's an architectural treasure chest – Sir Herbert Baker designed the village. Most of the houses are still in great condition. I really hope measures are taken to conserve the community's way of life and…

Shred some dirt in the Winelands Surrounded by wine farms and mountains, Stellenbosch is a dream destination for mountain bikers. Despite the abundance on offer, trail designer and builder Duran van Eeden is hoping to eclipse all the current trails on offer with a new trail park in Devonbosch, a lifestyle estate just outside town. Cheekily named“The GOAT”– either the Devonbosch emblem or an acronym for“greatest of all time”, you decide – the trail park is a collaborative effort by Duran, his co-trail builder Wynand Basson, and experienced local rider Eldorette Carinus. The park will be contained within the Devonbosch property and will offer yet another option for riders looking to have fun in the Winelands. Devonbosch has introduced other alternative sports to the area, too, like eFoiling, where a…

Leopards are independent creatures that lead solitary lives, but they still need to communicate with one another. Dominant, territorial cats need to make neighbours and intruders aware of their presence; female leopards need to let males know when they're receptive for mating; and mothers need to communicate with their cubs. Leopards communicate in four main ways: using olfactory (smell), visual (sight), auditory (hearing) and tactile (touch) signals. Of these methods, touch is the least common and occurs mostly while the female is rearing her young, although it also happens during courtship between adult males and females. In terms of sound, leopards have a deep, guttural rasping call that is often likened to the sound of a saw being pulled through wood. Males and females both vocalise in this way –…

For the first 16 years of my life, once a month, my family packed the car and we spent a weekend in the Baviaanskloof. My grandparents were retired smallholders and lived on the farm Mistkraal. We lived in Port Elizabeth and the Baviaans was around the corner. When we planned these visits, my parents never said they were “going to the Baviaanskloof”. To them, they were “going home”. They both grew up in the Kloof and only left to attend high school in Willowmore, and later to work in Port Elizabeth. The Baviaanskloof lived up to its name: We often came across baboons on our travels. “As close to human as you can find,” my dad used to say. We'd watch the baboons for a few minutes and he'd add:…

CYCLE WITH A GUIDE If you're not sure you're skilled enough, don't want to head out alone, or want to ride with someone who knows the trails, get a guide (like Siyabulela Tutu, pictured) to accompany you on the Banhoek Conservancy trails. This trail network joins up with the Stellenbosch network. The guides know everything about mountain biking. You can bring your own bike or hire one. Where? Entrance to the Old Bethlehem farm. Cost: R350 per person per hour. Contact: 082 336 3772 (Chris); casacerveza.co.za 1 Pop in at Pniël Museum The staffare knowledgeable and like to tell local stories. There are different tours on offer: do a museum tour and you also have the option of visiting the Ubuntu Monument at Die Werf, and the Congregational church. Book…

T he first Comrades Marathon was run on 24 May 1921. It was the brainchild of WW1 veteran Vic Clapham, who wanted to stage an annual test of physical endurance to commemorate the harsh conditions under which South African soldiers had fought and died during the Great War. A course was mapped out between Pietermaritzburg and Durban, approximately 89km in length, that would test athletes to the limit. And, according to the race's constitution, “celebrate mankind's spirit over adversity”. The route is as follows: Starting in Pietermaritzburg, runners pass through Ashburton, Camperdown, Cato Ridge, Drummond, Hillcrest, Kloof, Pinetown and Westville, before the final stretch into Durban. The starting point alternates between the two cities each year, creating what we now know as the“down”run towards the coast and the“up”run towards Pietermaritzburg. There…

Velskoendraai Farm Stall, Clanwilliam When you drive north out of Cape Town on the N7, the world is relatively quiet and farm stall free. That changes on the other side of Moorreesburg, when they start coming at you thick and fast. You'll find one at the turn-off to Koringberg; another at the Eendevlei turn-off; there are a few manning the fort at the summit of Piekenierskloof Pass; and a dense cluster surrounding Citrusdal. With that in mind, it's entirely your own fault if you've driven as far as Clanwilliam before the urge for a cup of coffee, and perhaps a hearty breakfast, kicks in. Velskoendraai Farm Stall has a bit of everything. It's a restaurant and gift shop, and you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables. It's also what every…

LESOTHO i Did you know that the colourful blankets you see everywhere in Lesotho are not just practical items, but have a deeply cultural meaning for the Basotho? To find out more about this tradition, visit‘Masetho Elizabeth Letsie in Semonkong. You will learn why women and men wear the blanket differently, the meaning of the design elements and how to tell a cheap blanket from the real thing. Once you're clued up, you can buy your own blanket. Contact: Book a blanket presentation at Semongkong Lodge or contact‘Masetho Elizabeth directly. 00 266 5373 9716 (WhatsApp) Search for“The Blanket Presentation”on Facebook. Cost: R110 per person. KATSE DAMTOUR There are two dam tours per day: weekdays at 9 am and 2 pm; weekends and public holidays at 9 am, 11 am and…

You can blame Covid-19 or the insipid economy – or both – but the trend of buying down is real. Choosing smaller and cheaper options instead of splashing out has become prevalent in all sectors, including the motoring sector. Last year, entry-level cars accounted for almost half of all the country's passenger car sales. If you dig deeper into the numbers, you'll find that more than a third of these cheaper car sales were entry-level SUVs. As a result, the Suzuki Vitara Brezza (introduced in 2021) and its clone, the firstgeneration Toyota Urban Cruiser, were both huge success stories. More so for Toyota than Suzuki… Thanks to the strength of that Toyota badge, more than a thousand Urban Cruisers were sold per month. The Urban Cruiser outsold the Suzuki by…

The adventure kicks off with a 4x4 ride! The last few kilometres to Kranskloof base camp are only traversable in a 4x4, but if you don't have one, you can park at caretaker Richard Gininda's house and catch a lift in his Landy. “I've seen eland, waterbuck, zebra, kudu, wildebeest, blesbok, impala and mountain reedbuck here,” Richard says as we drive.“Even caracals and leopards.” Richard has lived and worked in the private Komati Gorge Wildlife Reserve since 1998. The 25 km² reserve is halfway between Machadodorp and Carolina, stretching from the Komati River to the Highveld plateau. We arrive at the camp at dusk. Richard helped to construct the camp, using rock and stone from the surrounding cliffs. He lights lanterns and the donkey boiler. I can hear a stream…

TOWN I t's a Saturday morning and Basson Street, which is perpendicular to the main road heading in the direction of the mountains, is hosting its annual traffic jam. The street sees the occasional rumble of trucks and bakkies off to the Wesgraan silos, but today the pavement is packed with smaller vehicles and school buses with out-of-town number plates: CR, CF, CT, CBY, CJ… The cause of the jam soon becomes clear: muffled bass from a PA system, pierced by the shriek of a referee whistle. It's Höerskool Porterville's annual Bulfees and people have travelled on empty dawn roads, over passes and across provincial boundaries for the yearly rugby and netball tournament. The first field I pass is known as the middelveldjie, where spectators are watching primary school rugby.…

KIDS' PAGE Think of the word“parrot”and most of us picture a tame bird in a cage. Common species of parrot that have been bred to be kept as pets include the African grey and the colourful macaw. Both of these birds two still occur in the wild, by the way: the African grey in countries near the equator like Cameroon, the Congo, Gabon and Ivory Coast; and macaws in Central and South America. We have four species of wild parrots in South Africa: brown-headed and greyheaded parrot, Meyer's parrot and Cape parrot. The others occur in a few African countries but the Cape parrot is only found in South Africa. When a bird, animal, fish or plant is only found in one small area, it's called“indigenous”or“endemic”. WHAT DO THEY EAT?…

TRAVEL JOURNAL The snow-capped peaks of South Georgia Island appeared on the horizon after 1 450 km on the open sea from the Falkland Islands, where we last saw land. An island as remote as this is only discovered by accident. It was first seen in 1675 when a ship sailing around the southernmost tip of South America was blown off course during a storm. Exactly a century later, Captain James Cook and some of his men on board the HMS Resolution were the first to step ashore. They fired a salvo and claimed the island in the name of King George III of England. But they were actually in search of Antarctica and when they sailed around the bottom of the island, they named it Cape Disappointment. In the…