Table of contents for go! Botswana 2025 in go!

FIREBALL After the riding was done for the day, we drove around looking for a rise where a wildebeest might be silhouetted against the sun. With just minutes to go before it would set, I photographed this scene. The smells of the bush, blended with grunting ungulates and birdsong, made it an African moment to remember. Then we drove off into the gathering dusk, ever hopeful, in search of aardvark and brown hyena. GEAR: Sony a7R Mk III; Sony 100–400mm lens (at 260mm) SETTINGS: Shutter speed 1/1250 second; aperture f5.6; ISO 400 SNORKELS DOWN If summer rain has been good, the pans fill up and flamingos arrive in their thousands in search of fresh-water shrimp and other crustaceans. I was lucky to get a wind-still afternoon, which made it look…

Rain starts to fall sometime in the early evening – a “soaking rain” as they’d say on the weather forecast. My friend Tom Dreyer and I lie in our tent and wonder aloud: How “soaking” does rain need to be before our tent springs a leak? Fortunately, our new Falkson tent can withstand the elements and we wake up dry the next morning. We’re at Sharwimbo River Camp on the banks of the Kwando River in the Zambezi Region of Namibia, which covers the largest part of what was once known as the Caprivi Strip. Breakfast is coffee and rusks, then we walk from the campsite (hidden among trees a short distance from the river) to the reception and restaurant building. The owner of Sharwimbo, Ben Vermaak, and his son…

VICTORIA FALLS The spectacular waterfall (US$30/R522 SADC entry fee) is the biggest drawcard for visitors to Vic Falls. Add good restaurants, plenty of places to stay and adrenaline-fuelled activities (river rafting, jet boating, helicopter flips, ziplining, bungee jumping…) and you have a world-class destination. The Zambezi National Park borders the town. Shearwater Explorers Village This extensive complex in Adam Stander Drive is well presented and has a range of accommodation, from deluxe rooms to serviced dome tents with two single beds, a lamp and a fan (from US$34/R592 per person sharing). There’s also space to pitch your own tent (US$21/R365 per person per night). It’s near the falls and the town centre, with a good restaurant, bar and swimming pool. 00 263 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com explorersvillage.com N1 Hotel Cheerful,…

BORDER FEES Botswana Fees are payable in pula – you can usually pay by card. Vehicle fee from P280 (R364). Trailer P110 (R143). Thisfee includes the National Road Safety Fund levy, vehicle insurance and a road transport permit. If you plan to passthrough Botswana twice on your trip (if you’re also driving through Namibia, for example, and then reentering Botswana) you can request a double-entry permit so you don’t have to pay the full fee every time. The latter will cost P340 (R442). Namibia You can pay in rand (cash or card). R445 per vehicle (including double-cab bakkies and kombis); R283 per trailer. Zambia Some fees are payable in US dollars only; others in kwacha (K). You can exchange dollars for kwacha at most borders if needed, but most now…

When most people visit Botswana, they concentrate on the north – destinations like the Okavango Delta and Moremi Game Reserve. Look at a map and you’ll basically see two routes you can follow to Maun, which is the gateway town to the delta and Moremi. To the far west is the tar road that leads via places like Kanye, Kang and Ghanzi. This is probably the route you’ll follow if you travel from the Northern Cape, Western Cape or Eastern Cape, because it’s the most direct. If you’re coming from Limpopo, Mpumalanga, Gauteng or KZN, it makes more sense to follow the central route – you’ll use the Grobler’s Bridge border post (or maybe smaller Stockpoort, just to the west) and travel via Palapye, Serowe, Letlhakane and Rakops, until you…

SOUTH AFRICA NORTHERN CAPE Middelputs and McCarthy’s Rest are small border posts north-west of Kuruman. If you plan to enter Botswana through the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, you have to clear customs at the Two Rivers border post at Twee Rivieren. Van Zylsrus Hotel In Van Zylsrus, about 40 km from the Middelputs border post. They have big rooms, a good restaurant, a bar and a swimming pool. 2025 rates: En suite rooms from R820 per person sharing, breakfast included. Where? 27 Olivier Street 082 777 2301 vanzylsrushotel.com Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park The South African side of the park is more accessible than the Botswanan side and most of the major gameviewing roads are passable in a 4x2. Make sure your vehicle has decent ground clearance and remember to lower your tyre…

KAVANGO RIVER Divundu is a bustling little town on the banks of the Kavango River – there are fuel stations, shops and ATMs. Camp Ndurukoro A great value-for-money camp, 55km west of Divundu. The camping stands have power, river views, decks and ablution facilities: R190 per person. River chalet R1 000 per night for two people. Family cabin (sleeps 2–4) from R900 per night. Swimming pool, braai facilities, and a bar. Wi-Fi R50 per day. It’s self-catering, but you can order burgers, toasted sandwiches and chips. Sundowner trips and fishing boats available. 00 264 81 124 1051 (Leon, WhatsApp/SMS) Mobola Island Lodge About 30km north-west of Divundu. 2025 rates: Camping R200 per person. Self-catering twin-sleeper bungalow or luxury safari tent from R1800 per night; four-sleeper bungalow from R3600 per night.…

RATES The accommodation entries in this guide give an overview of the options on offer, as well as the price range. Rates and other prices were correct at the time of going to print and are subject to change without notice. Use them as a guideline – always call or e-mail to check beforehand. Some rates listed include the mandatory government “bed levy” or “tourism levy”; others exclude this. Enquire when you book. DISCOUNTS When making your booking, mention that you’re South African. Residents of SADC countries – 16 African nations, including South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Angola and Mozambique – sometimes get a discount. (Some of the rates in this guide already reflect this discount.) We haven’t included rates for children. Most places charge half-price for children aged 3–12, and…

Following your dreams as a mammal researcher might mean trading blue whales for African elephants. At least, that’s the path Dr Tempe Adams followed: She started researching blue whales off the coast of her native Australia and later relocated to the bush in Botswana to focus on elephants. Tempe grew up south of Sydney, on a farm where cattle, sheep and goats were the main focus. But horses were her first love – the equine affinity came from her father’s side. “He was an incredible horse rider,” she says. “He was a professional polo player and wrangler, so I ended up horse riding throughout my childhood. When your family is so connected to the land, it really makes you look at the environment in a different way. All those childhood…

The rhythm of a place reveals itself in due course. Here at Senyati Safari Camp, it starts at the turn-off from the A33 tar road, where signs warn that you’ll soon have to drive a sandy track for 1,5km and it’s only for “confident drivers”. Of course, it’s not nearly as bad, but some people do get stuck. During my visit in the late summer of 2025 the sand isn’t a problem because it has been raining almost every day. The track is damp and firm, not deep and loose. It leads down a hill into the Lesoma Valley – a wild patch of veld, even though it’s not inside the borders of a national park, which butts up against the border with Zimbabwe. I stop at the electric gate…

African spotted creeper, red-faced crimsonwing, African broadbill, lesser seedcracker… For years, I had studied these rare Zimbabwean birds in my guidebook. One day, I promised myself, I’d go and find them. My parents belong to a birding club and have formed a tight-knit group of friends. A few years ago, I joined them on a tour of Botswana and Namibia. In July 2024, they planned a three-week tour of Zimbabwe, taking in Gonarezhou and the Eastern Highlands. I immediately put in leave at work. Finally, July arrived. The trip exceeded all my expectations – the scenery and birdlife were both exceptional, but it was the people of Zimbabwe who stole my heart. Here’s our itinerary and some of my favourite anecdotes. I hope our tour inspires you to pack your…