Table of contents for December 2024 - February 2025 in International Traveller

If you can believe it, I've just returned from my first ever visit to Bali. After a decade of living in Australia, can I officially call myself an Aussie now? While I was there, I got a glimpse into some of the pioneering initiatives happening on the island to combat its waste problem, as Fleur Bainger writes about on page 36. Yes, there are trailblazing travel experiences to be had everywhere, even in places we think we know well. Interestingly, Bali is the place that Lonely Planet is often accused of ‘ruining’, according to co-founder Tony Wheeler, who speaks to Megan Arkinstall on page 106, alongside a cohort of other Aussie trailblazers who have had an impact on the global travel landscape. Wheeler adds that Afghanistan, where he visited in…

Waste not, want not OceanZen is an Australian swimwear brand born from founder Steph Gabriel's deep love for the water. Each bikini and swimsuit is crafted from nylon waste, sourced from plastic bottles and fishing nets recovered from the coast. Steph, a keen surfer and diver, was inspired by her background in environmental science and her past work with wild stingrays in the Caribbean to create a swimwear line with purpose. “When I first started, I was passionate about conservation. I was always in the water and wearing bikinis,” Steph says. OceanZen's designs honour the ocean by transforming its waste into sustainable beachwear, helping people connect with the sea and embrace eco-consciousness. This ethos extends to OceanZen's sister brand, OceanZen Travel, a women-only touring company that offers bucket-list (usually aquatic)…

Trailblazers via tradition The saying ‘What's old is new again’ applies to many facets of life. Tragic ‘90s fashion trends that left us grimacing are now cool again. Kids are eschewing streaming music for records and cassettes. Wine trends, like fashion, music and food, are cyclical. But it takes passionate trailblazers to forge a new path, even if its echoes are etched in the history vaults. Prosecco's identity as a sparkling wine full of freshness and uncomplicated enjoyment is based on its modern iteration. The early 20th-century invention of the Martinotti-Charmat method enabled producers to make consistent, high-quality wines focused on preserving aromatics. However, winemakers were making wine with bubbles prior to this revolution. Prosecco ‘Col Fondo’ was the first sparkling style to be made in the Italian region, now…

BLAZE THE WAY Travel differently in 2025 by seeking out destinations that aren't highlighted on the collective tourist map. We list 10 places to consider, some that are far-flung and intrepid, others that are a slight detour from our favourite holiday spots. Think Sumba in Indonesia, which is home to a new Design Hotel, Cap Karoso (pictured), and is a slower, authentic alternative to Bali. Turn to page 96 for more.…

In an area blessed with plenty of sunshine and stunning natural treasures, it's hardly surprising the people of Nelson Tasman in New Zealand/Aotearoa are besotted with the outdoors. Not just relishing their honey-hued beaches, lakes and rivers, forests and rugged back country in the north of the south island, but helping preserve it for future generations, too. The recently established Zero-Carbon Itinerary epitomises that sense of guardianship – kaitiakitanga in Māori – in action. It's a multi-day nature-soaked journey encompassing great dining, accommodation, outdoor activities and transport, all undertaken with businesses dedicated to caring for the lands they live in. It's about treading lightly, travelling slowly and soaking up the surrounds while knowing you're not having a negative effect on the environment. Nearly 30 participating businesses have been certified carbon-neutral…

The museums and enormous galleries of Europe are the stuff of dreams. But after long lines, unhelpful audio guides and crowds jostling for a glimpse of the masterpieces, even the keenest art lover can begin to flag. So skip the hassle. From secret after-hours mosaics to hidden frescoes and sipping wine between opera acts, these guided tours offer art, culture and expertise without the crowds. 1 LYON AND MARSEILLE 28 MAY – 5 JUNE 2025 The Limelight Arts Travel tour of Lyon and Marseille starts at France's ‘second city’, Lyon. Renaissance expert and Limelight Arts travel director Dr Kathleen Olive leads guests through ancient Roman ruins and artefacts, as well as one of France's best collections of Western art. Then it's southward through to Provence for a taste of avant-garde art…

The Marlborough Sounds – an intricate maze of waterways and steep, forested hills at the north-eastern tip of New Zealand's South Island – is an exhilarating landscape. Formed by rising seas that drowned ancient valleys millions of years ago, it blends coastal forests with a dazzling network of coves, peninsulas and islands. Through this landscape the iconic Queen Charlotte Track stretches like a ribbon for 73.5 kilometres, from historic Ship Cove to Anakiwa. The shared trail is iconic for walkers and mountain bikers alike. WHO TO GO WITH While you can make your own way, tried and tested adventure companies can make the journey easier. Whether walking, kayaking, mountain biking or using e-bikes, Wilderness Guides has been leading guests on the track for 23 years. Experienced guides share their local…

A Douro River cruise has fast become one of the most celebrated river cruises in the world. While the Danube and Rhine will forever be the obvious ‘ultimate’ European highlights, the Douro is distinct for its smaller ships and lesser-known, yet seductive, experiences. Much like Portugal itself, the Douro is a surprising journey of majesty: stunning hillside vines, medieval villages overflowing with history and, of course, wine. PRIMEIRO PORTO The journey commences in Porto, the country's second-largest city, famous for the production of the fortified wine it is named for. Unseasonal rain whips in from the Atlantic and twists our umbrellas into unnatural shapes as my fellow travellers and I seek safe haven on the new Avalon Alegria. I dance around the heated rooftop pool hoping – ultimately in vain…

With the new year upon us, many of us are planning where we want to head next. Be the person at the dinner table telling stories about intrepid journeys to far-flung lands, from the vast landscapes of Mongolia to the wild and mountainous beauty of Rwanda. Why not swap out your favourite destination, such as Bali, for an off-grid paradise like Sumba. Or simply take a detour while visiting iconic destinations, such as Barcelona, to stay in a new hilltop hotel overlooking the charming medieval town of Girona. We understand travelling to largely undiscovered places can be a vexed issue, but by spreading the love and load of tourism in a respectful way, we can also have a positive impact on these communities. Here's to happy, mindful travelling in 2025.…

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES/FRANCESCO RICCA IACOMINO (YOSEMITE VALLEY); GETTY IMAGES/BRAD BOOTH (SEQUOIA TREES) In the dawn – while the stars still twinkle in the clear, cold Californian sky above – I re-read my safety tips, so that they might lodge in my subconscious. Hiking alone and jogging is not recommended. Not here, in mountain lion habitat. But should I choose to – and if I encounter a mountain lion – the best thing to do is: stay calm. Don't turn back. Appear as big as possible. If it acts aggressively, wave my arms. Throw a rock or shout. And here's the doozy. If attacked, fight back. A staff member on the early shift at my hotel adds his two cents’ worth as he pours my coffee. “There was a bear close…

FROM AN APRÈS-SKI AT DIZZYING HEIGHTS TO A CELEBRATION OF ALL THINGS CHAMPAGNE, HERE ARE THE NEW WAYS TO DINE YOUR WAY THROUGH FRANCE. 15th UNESCO anniversary of the ‘Repas Gastronomique Des Français’ France has its sacred rituals, and one of them involves dining as if each meal could be the last. The ‘Gastronomic Meal of the French’ is UNESCO-protected not because of what's on the menu but how it's done: savouring, sipping and repeating. It's all about relishing life with friends, one course at a time. ich.unesco.org EUROPE'S HIGHEST WINE BAR OPENS IN VAL THORENS Val Thorens has quite literally raised the bar for après-ski drinks. The ski resort's Caron 3200 building, debuting in time for the 2024/25 winter season, will house Europe's highest wine bar. Expect lofty drinks…

VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES Visiting the volcanic natural park of Auvergne is always a good idea, regardless of season. In the warmer months, the 80 dormant volcanoes are verdant and covered in wildflowers, shrubs and forests. Hiking trails weave through, with one of the most popular being the walk up to the temple at the peak of Puy de Dôme. Come winter, snow blankets the peaks and the local ski resorts spring to life. CITY GREEN A short sojourn in Paris doesn't have to be without nature. Bookended by The Louvre and Place de la Concorde, the 28-hectare Jardin des Tuileries is an urban oasis of landscaped gardens, large ponds and an open-air sculpture garden. Take children to sail small boats around the pools – a 150-year-old tradition – or for a…

WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF TRAVELLING? My first trip to Europe as a 13-year-old. I landed in Paris and went to Roland-Garros to play as a junior. I found it exciting but overwhelming. I was due to be away for eight weeks and was excited for the adventure, but I missed my family very much. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVEL? Experiencing different countries and cultures. Each city has its own uniqueness and I love finding hidden gems – a favourite coffee spot, hotel, place for a walk etc. I got the chance to return to some of my favourite places each year on the tennis tour. WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT? Melbourne/Naarm in January to enjoy the Australian Open. It's the best time of year in Melbourne.…

WHAT'S IT ALL ABOUT? The cultural romanticisation of the Antebellum South (see: Gone with the Wind) necessitates an eschewing of the brutal history that lies beneath the picture-perfect surface of plantation homes and their oak-lined alleys. So strong is our cultural amnesia, that it's still all too common for plantations to feature as wedding backdrops. The Whitney Plantation strips away the pretty facade to reveal the gravity and truth about these spaces by focusing exclusively on the perspective of the enslaved. Drawing on interviews with more than 2300 former slaves conducted in the 1930s, the non-profit museum tells the story of this often-sidelined yet central group to honour their lives, educate visitors and challenge our perception of plantation history. It also features tender, thought-provoking and confronting installations housed in the…

Fiji's conservation-led reef In the waters off Malolo Lailai, BULA Reef is part of Reefs of Hope, run by NGO Corals for Conservation. The structure is home to thousands of rescued corals and managed by staff at Plantation Island Resort, and your tourism dollars can help. Châteaux in Bordeaux Skip the hotels and Airbnbs – when you're in Bordeaux, a stay in a château is a must. The grand country estates are sprinkled generously across the famed French wine region, boasting luxurious amenities, access to local vineyards and centuries-old charm. MADEIRA, THE HAWAI‘I OF EUROPE As soon as you set foot on the stunning Portuguese island of Madeira, you'll understand why it's been hailed the Hawai‘i of Europe. From picturesque beaches perfect for surfing to hiking trails, waterfalls, street food…

WHERE IT IS The Home Hotel Zürich, a Member of Design Hotels, is located inside a former paper factory on the banks of the River Sihl. The building was once the site of a prominent Dada festival – a link that tethers The Home Hotel to the spirit of the avant-garde art movement born in Switzerland. thehomehotel.ch WHY WE LOVE IT Dadaism sprung out of Zürich in response to the absurd horrors of the First World War. The movement made waves with its nonsensical and abstract approach to art, often employed to subvert and challenge meaning. The Home Hotel playfully encapsulates Dada design principles (or delightful lack thereof) with unabashed pattern clashing, whimsical decor and an array of fixtures in bold, geometric shapes. The hotel takes a somewhat esoteric and…

The eyes settle on a lot of lovely things in Bali: palm trees shading infinity pools, rice paddies terracing hillsides, day spas with sub-$30 price lists. What we don't see are the mountainous landfills of plastic bottles, shopping bags and rubber thongs that heave as visitor numbers climb. It's estimated that hospitality on the Island of the Gods sends some 50 per cent of its waste to the dump, and with Bali now the world's second biggest travel destination according to Tripadvisor, its rubbish problem is becoming even more acute. A cult-favourite beach club and resort, Desa Potato Head has been quietly working on the issue for the past seven years, cutting its restaurant and hotel trash so dramatically it now sends less than three per cent to landfill. In…

DAY ONE 7AM Freshen up in one of the shared en suites at the historic VICTORIAN HOTEL, a hidden gem of Vancouver's hotel scene. Built in 1898 during Canada's Klondike Gold Rush, The Victorian has been restored to offer travellers a unique stay similar to what you'd find in The Rocks, Sydney/Warrane. 8AM For a quick bite to eat, walk to NEMESIS COFFEE in Gastown and order the tiramisu croissant or a pistachio-crumbed pastry snail, with a coffee or matcha latte. 9AM Make your way to Waterfront Station and buy a SeaBus ticket for LONSDALE QUAY, North Vancouver. Ferries run every 15 minutes and the ride is brief. 9:30AM Once in Lower Lonsdale, a neighbourhood off the typical tourist trail, follow the boardwalk to THE POLYGON GALLERY, with its striking…

Tucked on a little peninsula near a chic village on the island of Milos, the White Pebble Suites hotel seduces the eye with the sensual curves of its creamy exteriors. They're framed with waving grasses which ripple alongside a central saltwater pool that opens out to the Aegean. With its modern interpretation of Cycladic minimalism, the hotel design echoes the lunar-like landscape of Milos. It's the vision of three Greek-Australian women, Lefkothea Georgantis and sisters Helen Logas and Aphrodite Lambrou. When they discovered Milos while on a yachting holiday together in 2017, almost on a whim, they decided to utilise their combined travel industry, fashion and hospitality backgrounds to build a hotel. “The island was so beautiful. It had an airport and lots of ferries, but no luxury accommodation. We…

The sun is still low in the sky, but already the humidity is making my skin glisten. Locals will tell you there are only two temperatures here, and they'll say it with a pitying giggle: hot and bloody hot. Stilt houses cling to the banks. The occupants have taken to their sampans (flat-bottomed wooden boats), beginning their chores before the heat forces them back inside. Already, a nón lá (conical hat) is essential. This is the Mekong Delta, and we've just crossed from the peaceful, almost empty river of Cambodia into a hotbed of life in Vietnam overnight. Not without some drama, too: the sudden increase of larger boats guarding the border crossing made it feel something like a game of bumper cars. I've already been to the dining room…

Sandwiched between the hulking sandstone mountains of the Cape Fold Belt and the glittering sapphire waters of the South Atlantic, few global cities are as spectacularly situated as Cape Town. Rising up from the edge of its urban core like a giant altar to the gods, the flat-topped Table Mountain presides over streets awash with colour and creativity. The last time I visited Cape Town, it was a cultural capital on the rise, basking in its 2017 designation as Africa's first UNESCO Capital of Design. Its innovative energy lifts my jetlagged spirits anew as I check into the Cape Grace hotel on the V&A Waterfront. Reopened as a Fairmont-managed hotel earlier this year, it's one of several grand Capetonian hotels (including the neighbouring Victoria & Alfred Hotel) fresh from an…

CREATURE COMFORTS There are only two northern white rhinos left on the planet, and Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya is home to both of them. An off-thebeaten track stop on safari with Abercrombie & Kent, the reserve has the highest density of wildlife in Kenya outside of the Masai Mara and is safeguarding some of the most vulnerable animals in the world. Turn to page 114 to read more.…

10 January OUIDAH VOODOO FESTIVAL Ouidah, Benin Benin is considered the birthplace of voodoo, which spills into the West African country's wider culture in everything from herbal medicines to roadside shrines and temples. Each year, the people of Benin celebrate the cultural significance of this religion and cults associated with it at the annual Ouidah Voodoo Festival. Expect to see everyone from voodoo priests to devotees dressed head to toe in colourful garb. Until 5 January I. M. PEI: LIFE IS ARCHITECTURE M+, Hong Kong ASIA'S GLOBAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY VISUAL CULTURE IS SHOWING THE FIRST FULL-SCALE RETROSPECTIVE OF CHINESE-AMERICAN ARCHITECT IEOH MING PEI. TITLED I.M. PEI: LIFE IS ARCHITECTURE, THE EXHIBITION CELEBRATES THE RENOWNED ARCHITECT'S HIGH-PROFILE PROJECTS, INCLUDING THE ICONIC MODERN PYRAMID AT PARIS'S LOUVRE, THE MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC…

DON'T GET WASTED It's no secret that Bali has a problem with rubbish, much of which is produced by tourism and hospitality businesses. For the past seven years, the island's iconic beach club and resort Desa Potato Head has been busy tackling the waste issue. And it has made major strides with an innovative community project that turns trash into designled treasure. Turn to page 36 to find out more.…

THE INTREPID LIST (HARDIE GRANT, $45) Featuring 100 uncommon experiences to change the way you travel, this beautiful new hardback is definitely not a bucket list. True to Intrepid's ethos, it's for curious travellers looking to discover new destinations or see the classics from a different perspective. THE CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN KITCHEN (PHAIDON, $69.95) Alexander Smalls is a big deal in food: the New York-based James Beard Award-winning chef and author picked the brains of leading chefs in Africa to provide recipes that showcase the continent's cuisine and culture. KYOTO SERENITY (ASSOULINE, $105) Add this book to your coffee table collection so you can escape to the historical capital of Japan. The beauty of Kyoto is showcased everywhere from its gardens to its temples and cherry blossom trees. DESIGN: THE LEADING…

Upping the ambience Guests dining at Istanbul's only restaurant with two Michelin stars, Turk by Fatih Tutak, can expect a bit of theatre when they're ushered into the all-new AVLU Welcome Courtyard. Find a soft and shadowy corner to enjoy an aperitif on arrival as well as an array of elevated canapés and snacks that hint at the calibre of the culinary experience to come. turkft.com LA PERGOLA WASN'T BUILT IN A DAY Rome's only three-Michelin-starred restaurant has emerged after a grand transformation of both venue and menu. La Pergola at Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, is just a short scooter ride from the base of Monte Mario. Like chef Heinz Beck, who reinvents classic Italian dishes, studio Jouin Manku borrowed from the classic Roman materials of terracotta and…

Fiji's tropical allure is stronger than ever for Australians, thanks to record visitor numbers and a strong Aussie dollar. But beyond the flop and drop, the islands are filled with tempting adventures visitors may not have tried yet. Whether it's stargazing or surfing, crafting cocktails in the shallows or a farm-to-fork feast, these new experiences will transform your tropical time away. 1 STARGAZE FROM A PRIVATE GLASS DOME With little light pollution, Fiji is one of the best places in the South Pacific to view the heavens. And as the sky darkens over the shores of Momi Bay, guests at Fiji Marriot Resort Momi Bay can explore the stars from their own private glass dome next to the ocean. Stars have always been a significant part of Fijian culture, traditionally used by sailors…

Artisan Károly Mate Jr straddles a stool in his workshop, patiently dragging a mighty sickle through a bulbous wedge of fungus. The mushroom, which has been fermented and dried for weeks, is deceptively wooden in texture, but Károly hews his blade effortlessly, slicing it as if he's peeling the skin off an apple. The finished products of his labour are strewn about the workshop – whimsical hats made from soft, weightless mushroom leather. Some are embossed with an array of Transylvanian folk motifs such as mountain flowers, pine trees and leaves, while others are embellished with feathers or wiry tufts of bear fur. The material Károly is making for the hats is amadou – a traditional fabric painstakingly crafted from the horseshoe fungus (also known as conk) that grows on…

I meet Malsa Maaz when she's living her dream job employed at Soneva Jani in the Maldives as the resident ‘Barefoot Bookseller’. The daughter of a sailor, Malsa grew up on the main island of Malé and is well placed to inspire holidaymakers about the Maldives. She holds her Bachelor of Arts in Archaeology & Anthropology and Master of Research in Engaged Anthropology from the University of Wales Trinity Saint David and is passionate about Maldivian culture. Malsa conducted her anthropology fieldwork in the small village of Kihaadhoo in Baa Atoll to explore the traditional coconut weaving culture of the archipelago, known as kasabu viyun. “My biggest revelation when I was living in the village was that I had romanticised my own culture. I'd been influenced by white Western armchair…

The sky is wearing the right shade of blue for our arrival at Te Mānia in Hawke's Bay. The architecturally designed lodging cloaked in Corten cladding has a length of the Tukituki River unspooling below and soaring peak of Te Mata above. All around are tufts of native grass in muted tones that inspired the colour palette inside the two-bedroom retreat overlooking Tukituki Valley. Te Mānia, a half-hour drive from Napier Airport, is one of 17 luxury retreats managed by the Black Barn brand co-founded by Kim Thorp, who has helped promote Hawke's Bay as New Zealand's premier food-and-wine region for more than two decades. “The culinary landscape in Hawke's Bay does not resemble the Hawke's Bay I grew up in,” says Kim, who also co-owns award-winning Black Barn Vineyards.…

“When you visit this region, you will find a lot of people whose entire world is their valley.” Usually, a scenic plane ride involves watching the landscape unfold far below me, but all I can see out my window is a jagged line of snow-capped mountains rising up to eye level. Seemingly thousands of peaks stretch into the distance, the space between them cluttered with improbably narrow ridges, terrifyingly steep valleys and broad cirques hidden beneath permanent glaciers. So it's a surprise to see these mighty towers of rock suddenly dwarfed by the appearance of Nanga Parbat. At 8126 metres, the planet's ninth tallest point bursts from the clouds in a jaw-dropping mix of vertical cliffs, pure white slopes and dizzying rock spires. The dramatic one-hour flight from Islamabad to…

The life of Pei The first full-scale retrospective of works by world-renowned architect I. M. Pei features more than 400 objects, including this photograph of the late Chinese-American architect ascending the stairs of the East Building at Washington D.C.'s National Gallery of Art – one of the many iconic structures that he designed. The play of light in the soaring sky-lit atrium is one of many deliberate design elements introduced by Pei, who developed the dramatic geometric glass in order to animate the space and enhance the synergy between architecture and art. Turn to page 180 for more.…