Table of contents for August 2017 in Scale Auto

Wire wheels made easier One of the big challenges in modeling vintage race cars and dragsters is accurately reproducing wire wheels in scale. Injection-molded styrene wheels need to have thick spokes, because of production limitations and strength; and they always look out-of-scale. Photoetched wire wheels are a huge improvement over kit-sourced plastic wheels. However, they can be tricky to work with, and often don’t include rims. The challenge then becomes finding rims and tires that all fit the photoetched wires. And in my opinion, photoetched wire wheels still don’t look right, because the spokes are flat, with sharp edges. LACE YOUR OWN And so the obvious solution is to hand-lace your own wire wheels; a daunting task that I’ve been revisiting for more than 10 years. It always seems either…

In 1967, AMT introduced a 3-in-1 kit of the 1937 Chevy Five Window Coupe. It was significant in a number of ways: It was among the final AMT kits introduced under the Trophy Series marketing umbrella, and it was the only Trophy Series kit to feature a pre-WWII Chevrolet. It was also the last Trophy Series kit that included three well-developed building options. The kit has been reissued at least twelve times in drag, street rod, Bonneville Salt Flats, and genericthemed kits, with multiple modifications to the original tooling. The basic kit tool included a convertible spinoff, also reissued multiple times. Now, 50 years after its introduction, we’re revisiting this historic kit with an expanded kit review. We’re using Round 2’s recent reissue (AMT899/12), which reprises the kit’s original “portrait”…

“These were the best-looking of all the rear-engine Indy cars,” says Ed Powell about this Eagle. It’s box-stock, and the finish is Tamiya Racing Blue. “Tom Daniel designs have always been some of my favorites,” says Rodger Salkil, whose T’rantula was a two-week box-stock build. The paint is Testor’s. “I just wanted to see one with a 440, not a Hemi,” says Junior entrant Devon Meade about this Revell 1970 Plymouth Barracuda. The paint is Testor’s Plum Crazy. “The last of my car models from my youth,” says Larry Lange about this original-issue AMT 1932 Ford. He modified the top and handpainted the whitewalls. Chris Smock’s love of short-track racing inspired him to build this AMT Dodge Dart. He modified the front ride height, made headers from solder, and used…

Ohio modeler loves to build drag cars I’m 67 years old, and I grew up and live in northern Ohio. I retired several years ago with 40+ years of service as a mechanical engineer at a local manufacturing company. I started building tanks, airplanes, and ships in 1957, when I was eight years old. Three years later, I got hooked on the AMT annuals, and I’ve never looked back. I’m normally a loner, but I joined the North Coast Auto Modelers (NCAM) in 2011. It’s an active club that has two meetings a month, with large turnouts. With me being one of the older members of the club, I’m anxious to attend meetings to learn new skills from all of the other members. Growing up and living in the “Gasser”…

By 1966, MPC was still the new kid on the block in the model-car kit industry, but it was showing signs of becoming the industry leader Perhaps no kit did a better job of sending that message than its 1/25 scale version of the Corvette Mako Shark concept vehicle. The Mako Shark was GM Design Vice President Bill Mitchell’s concept for a third-generation Corvette. Unveiled in 1965, it conveyed a stunning vision, and its design theme clearly foreshadowed the “C3” Corvette, introduced for the 1968 model year. MPC’s kit was brimming with innovations, starting with the stunning box art, placing an illustration against a stark red background. Side panels merchandised the various building features, and operating features such as a one-piece flip-front assembly and a roof panel that was hinged…

This is the AMT/Round 2 deluxe kit release of the 1976 AMC Gremlin. My intent was to build it outof- the-box; I even considered making it a curbside. But after I was into it a bit, I decided to make a few changes, yet stay with the “OOB” mindset (or limits) when it came to adding extra detailing. I cleaned up the body by sanding out the mold lines with 800-grit paper, and scribing some of the panel lines a bit deeper with a hobby knife. A light coat of Tamiya primer helped to identify areas that needed more attention. The front body/grille panel did not fit well. The opening in the body and the edges of the front piece needed to be sanded to fit. To make installation easier,…

Italeri Ford Transit Mk2 This is a reissue (multiple times and variations by Esci) of a secondgeneration Transit Mk2 of no specific year but ranging from 1978-1986. It is a relatively simple curbside kit, but it does have opening front doors and rear gate. It can be built as left- or righthand drive, and has an optional front spoiler. It is molded in white for the body parts, black for the rest, plus clear windows and semisoft tires. The parts count is 77, including five tires and alternate dashboard. The tires are rubberlike Pirellis with an aggressive tread and full sidewall detail. The instructions do their job, but are somewhat dated in appearance. The decals are well done, and provide for a British Gas Southern or a basic, generic version.…

I’m a 67-year-old model builder, and I am always buying model kits, built or unbuilt, and any amount of new or used parts. Included in one of my car and part purchases was a vintage Lindberg Little Red Wagon. The right door was missing, along with other parts, and the roof was cracked. It was at one time a decent paint job and build. I hated to throw it out, so I cut it in half with diagonal cutters, and built the left side with some extra parts. I went to A C Moore and purchased a 9x9 wooden enclosed frame for $3, painted it blue, then glued the pickup to it. It turned into a pretty nice wall hanger. It is one of a kind, and most of all,…

Our tip this time comes from faraway Melbourne, Australia (well ... it’s a long way from the T&T Workshop). Our pal Max “Old Wombat” Duhamel came up with an easy procedure to flare fenders on just about any vehicle. Determine where you want the flare to begin on the side of the car body, and sketch in the line with pencil. Max uses a compass to follow the wheel opening and transcribe a pencil line onto the fender. Cut slots from the wheel opening to the pencil line with a razor saw or rotary tool. The slots should be around 3/16" apart for a good bend. Carefully bend these tabs outward to create the flare. The outward bend will determine the extent of the flare. Now the spaces between the…

“Just wanted to build a custom Olds from a great kit,” says Paul Anagnostopoulos about this heavily modified 1950. He used Gravity Colors paint. “My wife’s favorite paint!” says Rod Rakos about the Createx on this AMT 1955 Chevy. It has parts from four kits, and was built as part of a club project. “Something different,” says Harold Helzer about this Revell 1929 Ford speed racer. It has aftermarket wheels, aluminum pulleys, and Tamiya paint. “Love the car and paint,” says Don Wilson about this Lindberg Lawman 1964 Plymouth. It’s box-stock, with a wired engine and PPG and House of Kolor paint. Saturday-night stock-car races inspired Rick Hanmore to build this 1941 Chevy. He lowered the suspension and used Parts by Park wheel discs. The paint is Valspar. Jimmy Sierzega…

1963 Nova I’ve always loved small cars with big engines. Who doesn’t? Add a straight axle – even better! I decided to do some heavy modifications to the Trumpeter kit, and found out that it’s actually quite nice! I did a lot of Googling to replicate the gutted interior, and made up a street Gasser of my own imagination; it’s not a replica of a 1:1 car. All in all, I had a blast doing this car, and it’s been enjoyed by others whenever I show it! ABOUT DENNIS EZMERLIAN Like most model car builders my age, I am drawn to the cool cars from my youth. I build mostly street cars from the 1950s and 1960s. I love hot rods, customs, and drag cars, but street cars with a…

Rob Schmidt’s box-stock Tamiya Porsche 934 had “approximately 400 parts, but went together beautifully,” he says. It was part of a clubchallenge build, and is finished with PPG blue lacquer, House of Kolor Tangelo Pearl, and Dupli-Color clear. WANT TO SUBMIT A PHOTO? It’s easy! Visit our contributor submission Web site at www.contribute.kalmbach.com and follow the step-by-step guide. Be sure to provide all the necessary information and details about your model! I wanted to challenge myself to try new techniques,” explains Don Molitor about why he built this Revell 1937 Ford. It has a basswood bed, a stretched frame, and Don used Vallejo acrylics with salt chipping and Micro-Mark Weather It. QUESTIONS? Send your Finish Line questions to Scale Auto, Finish Line 21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612, Waukesha WI 53187-1612…