Table of contents for Spring 2016 in Southern Cast Iron

My favorite cast-iron skillet is a tiny thing. It has no markings, no grand pedigree. Just a surface like polished obsidian and sides rougher than a barnacled tugboat. My little skillet was a gift from a family friend, the late Deppa Jo Wells. She was a beauty queen, a square dancer, a powerful mother, and an expert on pretty much every subject imaginable. She earnestly pressed this skillet into our hands many years ago after being shocked to discover our household was bereft of cast iron. A sad state of affairs, she said. And so she fixed it. These days, I can’t imagine my kitchen without its collection of cast-iron pans. My latest and greatest—shown here alongside my tiny skillet—is a 15-inch behemoth from Lodge Manufacturing that was the perfect…

“ FINELY CRAFTED AND LIKE NO OTHER, EVERY PIECE IS A PIECE TO USE, BUT IT IS ART.” —HAROLD R. HENRY Harold R. Henry views cast iron cookware as art. Over the past 50 years, Harold has built a collection of over 4,000 pieces that he displays in almost every room of his Hamilton, Missouri, farmhouse—even the barn. When I attended my first large castiron auction in 2011, I noticed a tall, thin gentleman wearing denim overalls and a baseball cap seated in the front row bidding on and buying a significant number of cast-iron pieces. The auctioneer clearly knew him, and called him by name— Harold. This became a pattern. In fact, I’m not sure if I have ever attended a large cast-iron cookware auction when Harold has not…

In his newest cookbook, Can You Dig It, famed Louisiana chef John Folse and his team dig deep into the history of vegetables, and their importance to different cultures over time. From the prehistoric cave drawings of gatherers and the meanings attributed to specific plants in Biblical times to massive European gardens and farmers in the American South, they explore the history of the lowly vegetable and the effect it had on the world. “I think in America we have farming in our DNA,” John says. “In the South especially, because many parts have four great growing seasons and rich soil. My grandfather used to say you could plant rocks and they’ll grow here.” John grew up taking advantage of the fact that the soil was so fertile. When his…

What do I need to watch out for when collecting vintage cast iron? WARPING When hunting for cast iron, bring something with a straight edge so you can test the surface of the piece. I use a credit card, but something like a 6-inch plastic ruler will work even better for larger pieces. Simply hold the straight edge to the surface, inside and out. If you see any light at all underneath the straight edge, then the piece has either a convex or concave warp. CRACKS When selecting a vintage skillet, make sure to examine it very closely, inside and out, in a well-lit area. If the skillet has a lot of gunk on it, a crack will be literally impossible to detect. RUST Normally, I don't fool with rusted…

HOMEMADE DILL ROLLS Makes 12 Packed with fresh dill, these rolls will make a perfect addition to any spring lunch. 1 (0.25-ounce) package active dry yeast 1⁄4 cup lukewarm water 22⁄3 cups bread flour 1 large egg 1 cup small curd whole milk cottage cheese 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh dill 3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened 11⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt 11⁄2 teaspoons onion powder 1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄2 teaspoon ground black pepper Garnish: melted butter, sea salt FIRST In a small bowl, stir together yeast and 1⁄4 cup water. Let sit until bubbly, about 5 minutes. NEXT In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine bread flour, egg, cottage cheese, dill, sugar, butter, salt, onion powder, baking soda, and pepper. Add yeast…

If you have dogs and you’re expecting a shipment from Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams, the canines better be well behaved. They’ll know when the ham slices and hickorysmoked bacon arrive before you do. Everything Allan Benton and his crew touch is wrapped in the heady scent wafting from their unassuming cinderblock outpost on Highway 411 in Madisonville, Tennessee. As Allan begins his 43rd year in the smoked-ham business, he remains as humble as when he took it over from Albert Hicks in 1973. After a stint as a school guidance counselor, Allan decided to try his hand at producing quality cured hams and bacon. Growing up in Scott County, Virginia, he watched his parents cure hams at home and found he had a natural affinity for the process. His…

Topped with buttered breadcrumbs or cheese and then baked in the oven until perfectly golden brown and crispy, gratins are best when served straight from oven to table in all their bubbling glory. And as your guests take their first bite and their eyes roll toward the heavens, you can give yourself a pat on the back. Whether smothered in cream and cheese or topped to crispy perfection, gratins will always be welcome at our dinner table. COLLARD GREENS GRATIN Makes 6 to 8 servings Leftover cornbread makes the perfect crunchy topping for this creamy gratin. 11⁄2 pounds chopped collard greens, stems removed 6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 1…

Not quite 100 years ago, brothers W. H. and Charles Martin bought a bankrupt foundry in Florence, Alabama, along the Tennessee River in the northwest corner of the state. Renamed the Martin Stove & Range Company, the foundry soon expanded its line of coal- and wood-burning stoves to include cast-iron hollow ware—everything from skillets and griddles to Dutch ovens and saucepans. For the next 36 years, Martin Stove & Range Company made cast-iron cookware with its distinctive “hamburger” logo. The brand is highly collectible today. The Martin brothers were not new to the cast-iron business. In the early 1900s, they were salesmen for the King Hardware Company of Atlanta, Georgia. Through their travels, they learned of a foundry for sale in Sheffield, Alabama, just across the river from Florence. The…

This sweet and savory dish may not have originated down South, but we’d wager that chefs below the Mason-Dixon Line have perfected the art of chicken and waffles. Whether you take yours sweet, spiced, or spiked, we’ve collected a list of the top joints to get your crispy, crunchy, and syrupy fix throughout the South. MISS POLLY’S SOUL CITY CAFÉ MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE When the words “Love, Peace, and Chicken Grease” glow in neon lights atop a restaurant’s sign, there’s no doubt that a tasty dinner waits behind the doors. Chef Anthony Taylor’s chicken and waffles does not disappoint. Since taking over the kitchen two years into the business, Anthony has transformed it from a burger joint to a fried-chicken destination. Before being fried to order, the chicken is blanched in…

Golden brown and blissfully crisp, fried chicken has a longstanding relationship with cast iron. Although there are as many recipes for fried chicken as there are Southern grandmothers, here are a few tips to help your fried chicken come out perfect, every time. GET A HEAD START Let the chicken stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before frying; it helps the meat cook quicker and more evenly. LET IT REST After dredging, let the chicken rest on a wire rack for 15 minutes before frying. This step yields an extra-crispy crust. KEEP IT HOT Heat the oil to 365° to make up for the temperature drop that occurs when you add the chicken to the skillet. Maintain the temperature at 350° for even cooking. CLASSIC FRIED CHICKEN Makes 8…

CAST IRON SPICE MILL It might be tiny (it measures just about 3 inches around) but this Swedish-made mill packs a punch. It can be used as a spice grinder, a miniature mortar and pestle, and a place to store spices. And since it weighs 2.4 pounds, it won’t take much elbow grease to pound herbs and grind spices. In business since 1906, Skeppshult, the Swedish company that produces the mill, continues to make their products by hand, using ancient methods. $59 each; kaufmann-mercantile.com CRISBEE PUCK Seasoning cast-iron pans between uses is crucial to maintaining the nonstick surface, but it’s easy to over-apply liquid oils. The Crisbee Puck is a solidified mixture of soybean oil, palm oil, and beeswax that you rub into the cooking surface. Simply wipe with a…

Blending the flavors of two cultures into a unified dish—it’s a skill that takes many chefs years to develop while others are born with the natural ability. Chef Ryan Andre falls into the latter category. “My earliest memory is playing with my toys in my room and my mom calling me to the kitchen to taste if the seasoning needed to be changed in the sauce,” he recalls. It may be a softer start than you’d expect from a guy who tattooed “chef” on his arm before he even was one, but growing up with a part-Sicilian mother and a French father is why a gumbo of flavors runs through the veins of this Gonzalez, Louisiana, native. Never underestimate the influence of a mom armed with a Dutch oven and…

STRAWBERRY SWIRL BREAD Makes 8 to 10 servings This gorgeous spring spin on classic sweet rolls is showstopping for brunch. 2⁄3 cup warm whole milk (105° to 110°) 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 (0.25-ounce) package active dry yeast 3 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (13-ounce) jar strawberry preserves 11⁄2 cups fresh strawberries, chopped 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream FIRST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine warm milk, granulated sugar, and yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup flour, beating at low speed to combine. Add melted butter and 1⁄2 cup flour, beating until combined. Add eggs, beating to combine. Gradually add salt and…

This nostalgic and historically economical dish is an indispensable part of the Southern menu, whether or not it was an original Southern invention. Some accounts date the dish back to the Depression, others to the Civil War, and still others to long before that, but anyone with good economic sense knew that a mix of flour and fat is a simple way to extend a meat dish. And while lean times most likely helped bring chicken and dumplings to prominence in the South, as with much of Southern food, the taste and comfort of the meal keep it on the table in times of plenty. For the most part, it’s hard to disagree on a meal of chicken and dumplings, but there is some controversy regarding dumpling form. In the…

Thanks to thick walls that evenly distribute the oven’s heat, cast-iron loaf pans yield a variety of baked goodness, from meat loaf to quick breads. So we decided to try it out on one of our Southern dessert staples—pound cake. The result? A perfectly tender cake with extra-crunchy edges, just like we like it. POUND CAKE WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND BLUEBERRY SAUCE Makes 2 (8x4-inch) loaves Buttery and sweet pound cake is the perfect anytime treat —we love it toasted for breakfast. Cake: 2 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature 3 cups granulated sugar 4 large eggs 4 cups all-purpose flour 11⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 11⁄3 cups whole milk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Blueberry sauce: 1 pint fresh blueberries 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 teaspoon lemon…

Life wasn’t easy on anyone during the Great Depression, and my ancestors, already sharecroppers living in shacks before hard times hit, were no exception. Like everyone else, though, they made do the best they could. My great-grandmother worked the fields alongside her husband all day, and their four children, regardless of their ages, joined them whenever there wasn’t school. Meals were basic for their hard-working family, home cooked, and delicious despite being meager. And while special accomplishments and days were acknowledged and celebrated with a dessert or some penny candy when times allowed, gifts were seldom, if ever, given. There just wasn’t a means to purchase them or free time to make them. But my grandmother’s sixth birthday, in 1936, was different. That special day happened to fall during a…