Table of contents for #205 - October-November 2019 in Threads Magazine

What source of inspiration do you turn to again and again? LETITIA WETTERAUER (“Sewing Saves: Fix a reversed placket,” p. 78) says, “I am fascinated by Southwestern cowboy and Northern Mexican charro (vaquero) clothing, because of its combined decorative and utilitarian components and the incorporation of historic European fashion details. I am also inspired by traditional ensembles of Northern Mexican women, which incorporate elements of Spanish and Native American cultures.” Letitia is a self-taught sewer with a degree in fine arts. She is a web developer, scientific illustrator, and book designer in Southwest Texas. NANCY NIX-RICE (“Find Your Prints,” p. 36) says, “Color is always my inspiration. My wardrobe is mostly solid garments, and putting them together in unexpected combos really excites me. I find a patterned accent piece—shell, scarf,…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern Butterick 6641 (Butterick.com) This fully lined, hip-length, slim-fitting jacket by Lisette has a funnel collar and notched front neckline, front shoulder yoke, front waist darts, front and back princess seams, welt pockets with flaps, one-button closure, two-piece sleeves with a button vent, back neck darts, and a center-back seam ending in a vent. Separate pattern pieces are included for bust cup sizes A/B, C, and D. Add ease to the sleeves if you plan to wear a garment with sleeves under it. Our tester recommends reinforcing the notch in the lapel, especially if you use a fashion fabric that frays. She says she found the directions…

The 2019 fall/winter ready-to-wear season brought in hints of the 1980s with strong shoulders and dramatic silhouettes. Tailored looks are back in a big way, from blazers to trousers to well-fitted coats. Long, belted, wrap-style coats with sharp lapels were prevalent in many collections, sewn in textiles from camel coating to fabulous bouclés with large-scale woven motifs. Belting was featured on coats as well as blazers, blouses, and dresses, to define the silhouette on garments that had generous ease. Black-and-white color palettes, with pops of reds and other vibrant colors, were popular in some collections, while other collections focused on bright prints. With all the variety in runway styles, you’re sure to find pieces that fit in with what you want to sew and wear. To guide you in your…

When I sew, I try to make things easier for myself. I rarely follow the pattern instructions exactly. As I plan the garment construction, I look ahead to anticipate problems such as matching stripes or plaids. I recently realized that some of my go-to solutions fall into one general category: cutting garment sections or whole patterns on the fabric’s bias grain. This change can make construction easier or more efficient, or create an area of interest in an otherwise bland garment. The structure of woven fabric determines the bias. Lengthwise, or straight, grain (parallel to the selvage) is the warp. Crosswise grain (perpendicular to the selvage) is the weft. True bias is the 45-degree angle across those grainlines (see image at right). When fabric is pulled at this angle—either when…

An acquaintance who doesn’t sew once asked me what could be new in sewing. She thought we must be “almost done with the topic.” I had to laugh, and she soon knew differently, as I told her about enhanced fitting methods, rediscovered vintage techniques, and independent patterns. It all goes into the continual flow of sewing content we share in print and online. Garment sewing is a subject I cannot imagine being finished with. There are always fresh possibilities in fabrics, patterns, and embellishments. Individual taste and creativity, changing fashions, and the continual challenge of fitting generate ongoing interest. In this issue, Contributing Editor Judith Neukam shares “A New Way to Fit Sleeves,” pp. 42–49, a method she developed. It begins with drafting a sleeve, then finds further fitting refinement…

Charmeuse is a light- to medium-weight woven fabric with a satin weave, which yields one bright and shiny face, while the reverse is matte. Most garments fabricated in charmeuse feature the shiny side as the right side, but the matte side can also be used. This fabric is tightly woven but the satin face makes it slippery, and it can be difficult to control while sewing. Silk charmeuse, a luxurious, supple textile, is a favorite for blouses and slinky dresses. Polyester charmeuse is also available. However, it is difficult to press out puckers in polyester charmeuse seams. This fabric does not lend itself well to structured garments because of its soft drape. It is suitable for blouses, full pants, lingerie, and piping. It is also a popular lining fabric for…

Velvet is sumptuous, with an elegance unlike any other fabric. It was once affordable only for royalty due to its expensive and unusual construction. It is woven on double looms, creating a dual-layered fabric that is cut apart, yielding two pieces with the soft pile that we associate with velvet and its close relations. This pile gives velvet its wonderful hand and weight but presents a challenge for sewing and embroidering. There are several pitfalls to embroidering on velvet. Simple designs with medium fill stitching tend to vanish into the fabric’s dense pile. Stabilizing velvet for embroidery can require some trial and error to create the desired result. You’ll also need to secure the velvet in an embroidery hoop without damaging the weave or crushing the pile. The secret to…

In the early days of my career as a designer, I disliked or even feared math. Then I met a great pattern drafting instructor who dispelled my fear and helped me to fall in love with numbers and formulas. Those of us who have worked on pattern drafting know how important it is to calculate correctly in order to create a well-balanced pattern that fits well on the body. I’ll introduce you to a simple geometry formula that can help you easily create eight different skirts. Each is constructed from pattern pieces shaped like part of a circle. To draft the patterns, you need to take two measurements: your waist circumference and the desired skirt length. Because there are only six steps to create the pattern, as you do this…

The jacket shown at left features a figure-flattering peplum made of two tiers at the waistline. The peplum layers travel from the front vertical darts to the center back, where they meet and are embellished with a self-fabric bow. You can add this detail to any fitted jacket pattern. It can have an existing waistline seam, or you can draw the waistline for reference and then make the restyled garment without the seam. The example suit has a center-back seam, which enables a good fit through the jacket’s back. If your pattern doesn’t have a center-back seam, mark center back from the waist to the hem so you know where to align the peplum tiers during construction. Draft the patterns Base the peplum tiers on the original jacket pattern’s front…

Elegant women’s suits were at their zenith during the mid-20th century. Excellent style in the post-World War II years depended on good fit and inventive and flattering design. From Portland, Oregon, fashion retailer Nicholas Ungár comes this feminine suit, which uses a double collar and shaped, two-tiered peplum to add panache to a traditional jacket. Turn to p. 74 to see how you can draft and sew this peplum for your next creation.…

Learn More from Our Web Extras 360-degree view: Take a further look at Vogue 9288, the cape featured in “Autumn Fashion,” p. 50. You’ll appreciate the details that make it the garment to sew for the season. Additional pattern suggestions: A new edition of our Pattern Roundup series includes patterns for three additional clothing trends. Spice up your wardrobe with new pieces and welcome autumn in style. Print selection gallery: “Find Your Prints,” p. 36, explains how personal coloring affects which prints help you look your best. Visit our online gallery to see even more print options on our models, and read tips for selecting print fabrics that work for you. Online Collection: A Guide to Sewing Velvet Machine embroidery expert Katrina Walker explains how to enhance lush velvet with decorative…

Pockets are places to put your hands and your possessions, and they provide an opportunity for design exploration. Pocket construction requires a range of skills and attention to detail, but with clear instructions, interesting and stylish versions are possible for sewers of all experience levels. The three designs shown on these pages are a good place to start in modifying pockets. They are based on the same patch pocket pattern piece and become something different. In addition to the changes shown, you can add piping, change the flap width, or double the number of pleats. One-of-a-kind pockets are a great way to add flair to a garment. Add a foldover flap The flap on this pocket style is integrated into the pocket itself, so it’s easier to draft, sew, and…

I long for an haute couture sleeve. That is, I crave a sleeve that is custom-fitted to my arm and shoulder and that works within the garment’s armscye. After years—or a lifetime—of wearing clothes made to fit a standardized consumer, many of us have forgotten what a correct fit is. There are so many different bodies, arms, sizes, and shapes, we shouldn’t be critical of a pattern or a ready-to-wear garment that doesn’t fit. After all, commercial patterns depend on average dimensions, and nobody is average. We need to learn how to get a pattern to fit well, and then use the results to improve and simplify our sewing. A good fit is a comfortable arm covering that fits beautifully into a bodice that conforms to the body. Extra wrinkles and…

For colder weather, lofty wool fabrics that have been felted, fulled, or boiled are cozy and comfortable. They are thick enough that you can use them as a single-layered, unlined garment, and they’re classier than polyester fleece. However, eliminating bulk along seamlines and edges can be a challenge. These textiles call for sewing methods that reduce thickness and take advantage of the fabric’s resistance to raveling. The techniques aren’t difficult, but they are different from standard garment assembly. The result is a garment with a structured appearance, but without needing all the steps or inner layers used in traditional tailoring. I found a dense, charcoal gray, fulled wool (I’ve heard it called “carriage cloth”) that was perfect for a frock coat I designed, inspired by an 18th-century model. It has…

I love to make dress shirts. I make enough of them that I rarely bother reading the pattern instructions anymore. When I move along quickly on a project and don’t pay close attention, I sometimes accidentally sew a placket on the wrong sleeve; consequently, the finished opening faces the wrong direction. I usually don’t realize this mistake until I have cut the slit and begun pressing. This error is difficult to fix, because the slit has narrow seam allowances and is weakened at the top by clipping. Here is a way to correct the mistake. It works on most shirtweight fabrics, but may not rescue lightweight fabrics or those prone to fraying. The next time you have a lapse of concentration and reverse a placket, try this technique to get back…