Bake from Scratch July/August 2022

CIAO, BAKERS! At long last, Bake from Scratch has journeyed to the delicious land of Italy, the birthplace of focaccia, tiramisù, and, of course, Nutella. This issue represents a baker’s pilgrimage to Italy, with a stop at a beautiful forno (bakery) in Florence, a baking class in Giulia Scarpaleggia’s Tuscan kitchen, and a pasta primer with Fernanda Giamello in Alba. You can even join me on my own personal Roman breakfast quest, where Katie Parla helped me get acquainted with the cream-filled and pillowy-soft maritozzo (try our recipe on page 111) and embrace the pizza-for-breakfast lifestyle. Though this issue will feel like a coffee table book—with its spectacular photography from our longtime photographer-at-large Joann Pai—we still have plenty of recipes to bring intense perspective on the Italian baking tradition. From an essential…

RECIPE INDEX BARS AND COOKIES Baci di Alassio 89 Baci di Dama 100 Chocolate Hazelnut-Filled Biscotti 90 Ladyfingers 44 Occhi di Bue 61 Soft Amaretti Cookies 113 Tuscan Biscotti with Pistachios and White Chocolate 65 BREADS Babà Rustico 27 Biova Piemontese 98 Chifferi 73 Genoese Focaccia 75 Grissini 98 Gubana 39 Impasto per la Pizza Napoletana (Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough) 84 Maritozzi 111 Pan di Ramerino 64 Pizza Margherita (Margherita Pizza) 84 Venetian Brioche Buns 84 CAKES Chocolate Hazelnut Sbrisolona 91 Chocolate Zucchini Cake 13 Pistachio Pan di Spagna 30 Torta della Nonna 55 Torta di Mele 20 Torta di Semolino 54 Torta di Susine 54 Torta Mimosa 55 FROSTINGS, FILLINGS, AND GARNISHES Chocolate Hazelnut Glaze 90 Gubana Filling 39 Italian Lemon Pastry Cream 40, 56 Orange Blossom Simple Syrup 30 Ricotta Whipped Cream 30 Vanilla Whipped Cream 71, 112 MISCELLANEOUS Brine 76 Brown Sugar Oatmeal Pancakes 14 Chocolate Hazelnut Panna Cotta 71 Espresso and Amaretti Semifreddo 5 Farinata 77 Hazelnut-Pistachio-Chocolate Salami 89 Ravioli del “Plin” al Burro e Salvia 101 Tiramisù 44 PASTRIES, PIES, AND TARTS Farro…

FOR A TASTE OF ITALY IN YOUR OWN HOME KITCHEN, WE’VE GATHERED SOME OF OUR FAVORITE ITALIAN BAKING STAPLES, FROM THE BELOVED NUTELLA TO THE EXQUISITE AMARENA CHERRY FOR CHOCOLATE LOVERS Many Americans have already embraced this Italian chocolate hazelnut spread from the Piemonte region with open arms, and it’s really no wonder why. Delightfully rich, creamy, and chocolaty and accented with toasted, nutty notes of hazelnut, Nutella makes even the most ordinary bakes extraordinary. If you’re looking for recipes that let this wonder ingredient shine, be sure to check out our 4 Ways with Chocolate Hazelnut Spread feature, starting on page 85. Available at your local grocery store. THE CHERRY ON TOP With a jar almost as beautiful as the cherries inside are delicious, Amarena Fabbri Wild Cherries are an Italian staple for a…

What brought you to Boston, Massachusetts, alone at 19? What was it like being away from family? Giulia Ciaghi: I came to Boston for college. I went to Boston University, where I got a bachelor of arts and a master of science. The first few months were hard, especially because my English was not so good and that was my first time being alone and away from my family. What part of Italy did your grandmother live in? GC: My [maternal] grandmother was from Trento, Italy. Trento is a small city up north, close to the border with Austria on the Italian Alps. What was it like growing up with Italian and French influence in the kitchen? GC: So, my mother’s mom was Italian, while my father’s mother was French. They both made amazing food,…

Italians have an ancient baking tradition and, thus, an ancient relationship with flour. Throughout Italy’s 20 regions, various grains, nuts, and beans have become the basis for their flours, not just the quintessential wheat. These alternative flours, like chestnut flour and chickpea flour, were created out of rustic necessity, offering nutrients during famines and hard times. We’re taking a look at each signature Italian grain, its uses, and what makes it an Italian icon, from the popular 00 flour to the golden-hued semolina flour. 00 FLOUR: One of the defining differences between American and European flours are their classification systems. In the United States, we divide flours by their protein level, with bread flour and whole wheat flour often representing the highest protein and cake and pastry flour standing in for…

A giant of the Italian pastry tradition, pan di Spagna translates literally to “Spanish bread” but is neither Spanish nor bread. Similar to a genoise or Genovese cake, pan di Spagna is a delicate, fluffy sponge cake that harnesses the power of egg foam, both aerated meringue and ribboned egg yolks. And while this cake has always been a national treasure, a clever marketing scheme introduced another Italian icon into the equation. Though the pan di Spagna needs no extra leavening power thanks to the egg foam in the batter, Lievito Bertolini had a leavening agent that could still enhance the cake’s flavor: Lievito Vaniglinato Bertolini. Essentially a vanilla-flavored baking powder, this chemical leaven has been a staple pantry ingredient for Italians for more than 100 hundred years. In a…