Active Interest Media

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ClimbingClimbing

Climbing

August/September 2019

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
Active Interest Media
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$14.95
6 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

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climbing

EDITORIAL Editor MATT SAMET Art Director CLAIRE ECKSTROM Senior Associate Editor JAMES LUCAS Digital Editor KEVIN CORRIGAN Senior Contributing Photographer ANDREW BURR Contributing Editors JULIE ELLISON, KATIE LAMBERT, ANDREW TOWER Interns HANNAH GARTNER, KATE KELLEGHAN, BENNETT SLAVSKY BUSINESS Group Publisher SHARON HOUGHTON, SHOUGHTON@AIMMEDIA.COM Sales Director ROB HUDSON, RHUDSON@AIMMEDIA.COM Marketing & Business Development Director COURTNEY MATTHEWS, CMATTHEWS@AIMMEDIA.COM Marketing Manager TINA ROLF Strategic Campaign Manager LESLIE BARRETT Marketing Coordinator PETER HEFFELFINGER Advertising Coordinator CAITLIN O’CONNOR Prepress Manager JOY KELLEY Prepress Specialist IDANIA MENTANA Circulation Director JENNY DESJEAN Single Sales Copy Manager NPS SALES Associate Publisher KEVIN RILEY, KRILEY@AIMMEDIA.COM Eastern Account Director JOANN MARTIN, JOANNMARTIN@AIMMEDIA.COM President & CEO ANDREW W. CLURMAN Senior Vice President, CFO, COO, & Treasurer MICHAEL HENRY Chief Innovation Officer JONATHAN DORN Vice President of Audience Development TOM MASTERSON General Manager, Outdoor Group SHARON HOUGHTON Vice President, Production and Manufacturing BARBARA VAN SICKLE Vice President of People and Places JOANN THOMAS Facilities TONY WILHELMS AIM Board Chair EFREM ZIMBALIST III…

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support team

In composing the perfect climbing shot, there needs to be a synergy between climber and photographer. Both need to be dialed with their systems and at the right place at the right time, which often involves travel and climbing at odd times—sunrise and sunset—to nail the “golden hour.” As you can see from the myriad amazing shots in our Photo Annual gallery (begins on p.50), these images didn’t simply “happen”—research, study, and effort went into every last one. Photographing a free big wall is more complex yet—the climbing alone can take weeks, months, or even years of scoping, prep, and rehearsal. Sonnie Trotter, the author of “Pineapple Express” (p.38), which details his efforts to find an all-free version of the North America Wall, knows this—his new route Pineapple Express (VI 5.13b/c),…

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inbox

SANITY CHECK In regards to “It’s the Bliss: Why Climbing Isn’t Selfish” (climbing.com/bliss), climbing keeps me sane. I’m confident society finds great value in my not being a homicidal maniac. JAREN WATSON, VIA FACEBOOK HEIGHT MATTERS Re. Out on a Ledge No. 366 (climbing.com/lastexcuse): Height matters in climbing because tall people reach and short people climb. That’s what I’m throwing down. STEVE KRAFT, VIA FACEBOOK PARK RAGE I couldn’t even get past the first column of “Park Daze” (No. 367) without getting pissed off—pro climber Nina Williams and your Associate Editor/wannabe pro climber James Lucas’s blatant disregard of the rules at a national park offends me. Blasting past the rangers so you don’t have to take the shuttle—seriously? Both you and this magazine should be ashamed of yourselves. MATT SWARTZ, VIA FACEBOOK DOG DAZE Regarding Peaches Preaches No. 367 (“Animal…

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sunrise/sunset

My friend jugging up to take photos at Montsant, Spain. EUGENE MAK We topped out my first trad multi-pitch just as the sun set over the Lake District, UK. HOLLY KENNAH All this year, Metolius is giving away a sweet prize to the best Re-Gram photo—check our social channels to enter! This issue, Brian Deitch wins the Upshot, the new standard for belay glasses. We are three dudes after a five-day attempt on Shipton Spire in the Karakoram, Pakistan. WYATT EDWARDS Getting a final go in on Poudre Canyon, Colorado’s, Computer Blue (V9). ISAAC DUNCAN As the sun set, Sophie went for the onsight on Funkdamental (5.11a) at Shelf Road, Colorado. COREY ZUKIE Brent Koch crushing Devil in the Helmet (5.12) at the Continental Ranch Roundup on the Pecos River, Texas. BRIAN DEITCH From the Kane Face of Mount Robson, Canada. DAVE BETHELL Morning climbing…

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the big question

From Tommy Caldwell hyping the Dawn Wall years before he and Kevin Jorgeson sent. To the bro in rental shoes scheming to campus “pink tape,” people love to talk about climbing plans. So how do you feel about pre-spray—announcing your intentions to send or try a notoriously difficult climb before it happens? How do you feel about pre-spray?* It’s OK if you do it with friends to help hold you accountable to a goal, but doing so to the larger community is obnoxious. 55% The only acceptable pre-spray is the one down at the carwash that gets the mud off my custom paint job. 14% I don’t have a problem with it, but if it goes on too long I lose interest. #finishyourprojectalready. 21% I love it. Pro-climber pre-spray is always trending on my Instagram feed. 10% *Based on 153…

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no parking

For the past 20 years, Thomasina Pidgeon, the first Canadian woman to climb V10, V11, and V12, has lived below British Columbia’s Stawamus Chief in her van, working at the local climbing shop, the Ground Up Climbing Center gym, and as a climbing coach. Though she’s a longtime local and an employed, contributing member of the Squamish economy, a recently proposed Squamish County bylaw could push her, and dozens of others living in their vehicles, out of the area. Earlier this year, Squamish County proposed Bylaw No. 2679, containing regulations that would prohibit all overnight camping, whether in a tent or a vehicle, in public spaces. It allows for two exempt areas more than seven miles outside town, down 4x4 roads; anyone caught camping outside these zones could be fined up…

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