Taste of the South October 2021

IN THE SOUTHERN KITCHEN, there are certain things that never go out of style. A few of those cherished constants include flaky biscuits, hot pans of cornbread, and crispy fried chicken, but there is one thing that they all have in common and that periodically gets shunned. It’s lard. In this issue’s Southern Staples (page 77), we explore a few ways to use this time-honored-yet-sometimes-taboo ingredient. Lard has less saturated fat than butter and a high smoke point (375°), which makes it ideal for frying, and if you don’t currently cook with lard, you should give it a try with these buttermilk biscuits, chess pie, and Cajun fried chicken sandwiches. With the warmest weather behind us, I look forward to dusting off my favorite Dutch ovens and cooking some heartier autumn fare.…

When she started her first restaurant job—a server at her local IHOP—at the age of 15, Tiffany Derry hoped to end up in the kitchen one day. Her wish came true one fateful night when a cook didn’t show up for work, and she hasn’t looked back since. She’s pushed through every barrier in her way and into some of the most esteemed kitchens in the Lone Star State before being named one of the best chefs in Dallas and earning a spot on season seven of Bravo’s Top Chef. Since then, Tiffany has launched her own company, opening two restaurants in the Dallas area. But her family’s unending support is the foundation of all those feats. This is how they’ve helped to shape her journey. What first got you interested…

1 ROLFE RUB BAMBOO BOWL WITH BAG OF RUB Look out spice cabinet! There’s a new kid on the shelves these days, and we have this Nashville-based company to thank. What started as a secret family recipe quickly became a fully-fledged business after owners Jim and Mary K Rolfe gifted their spice blend to guests at their son’s wedding. In this set, they’ve even included a beautifully engraved bamboo bowl with a magnetic locking lid for easy storage. Order your set and taste the difference it makes in your cooking. $35; rolferub.com 2 COMMANDER’S PALACE PAPA DOBLE COCKTAIL MIXER The Papa Doble, also known as the Hemingway Special or Hemingway Daiquiri, was made famous by none other than acclaimed novelist Ernest Hemingway on a stay in Havana, Cuba. Now, you can make the…

BIRDY’S BEHIND THE BOWER New Orleans, Louisiana Magazine Street in the Crescent City is home to miles of eclectic shops, cafés, and restaurants, and Birdy’s became the latest addition when it opened its doors earlier this year in the Garden District. Breakfast and brunch are the name of the game, and their menu features favorites like the savory Pulled Pork Biscuit and the decadent Cannoli French Toast along with classics like cinnamon rolls and fried chicken biscuits. Stop in for your morning pick-me-up. birdysnola.com THE CONTINENTAL Nashville, Tennessee James Beard Foundation award-winning chef Sean Brock welcomed the first guests to his latest concept, The Continental, early this summer. The restaurant, located at the Grand Hyatt Nashville hotel, melds Sean’s passion for American culinary history with his reverence for the traditional elegance of hotel dining to…

GROWING UP, my daddy worked two jobs just to provide for our family. He worked all day at our family’s filling station and then he would come home, eat supper, and sleep a couple of hours before he worked the night shift at the Hunt Refining Company in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. Before we moved to Tuscaloosa, we lived in Pickens County, Alabama. Daddy was a farmer in Pickens County. To say that we were poor when we lived in Pickens County would be an understatement. Mama did her best to cook what Daddy grew. Daddy did his best to grow enough to provide for us. Despite their best efforts, sometimes we had a lot of beans and potatoes and rice because they were all cheap foods to prepare. And just because we…

Butternut Squash, Coconut, and Shrimp Bisque MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS Rich, creamy, and spicy, this bisque is a can’t-miss dish for fall. 8 cups butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped into 2-inch pieces (about 2 squash)1½ cups ½-inch-thick sliced sweet onion4 cloves garlic2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, divided1 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided4 cups chicken broth1 teaspoon curry powder1 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)1 teaspoon ginger paste1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk2 tablespoons fresh lime juice¾ pound peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp, choppedSpicy Sriracha Cream (recipe follows)Garnish: toasted pumpkin seeds, crushed red pepper (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 450°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and spray foil with cooking spray. 2. In a large bowl, toss together squash, onion, garlic, and oil. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon salt and…