Taste of the South November/December 2021

AS THE OLD ADAGE GOES,’tis better to give than receive. During the holiday season most of all, food plays a central role in our gatherings. We come together around meals both simple and grand, and those dishes around the table represent more than sustenance—they are the building blocks of togetherness. Whether it’s your grandma’s cornbread or my mom’s shrimp dip, every family has its time-honored dishes that celebrate notable days throughout the year. In this issue, we hope you’ll find some new dishes to add into that rotation. In my home at Thanksgiving and Christmas, we shoot for a 75/25 mix of favorite dishes and fresh additions. That way, we can taste the flavors from years past while invigorating the meal with something different. A few dishes I plan to try this…

Which meals come to mind when you think of traditional Southern food? Maybe it’s crispy fried chicken or pots of gumbo or even a pan of cornbread? To Benjamin “BJ” Dennis, who was born and raised in Charleston, South Carolina, it goes far beyond any particular dish. Foods of the region are fueled by soul, and their history is detailed and storied with many classic recipes tracing back to the Lowcountry and BJ’s Gullah ancestors who lived in South Carolina and parts of northern Georgia. The often-overlooked impact of the Gullah Geechee people’s contribution to modern Southern cuisine is what drives him to educate today’s generation in hopes that the culture and food he’s dedicated his career to saving don’t disappear. What is Gullah cuisine? It’s the foodways of African Americans…

1 CATHEAD DISTILLERY BITTER ORANGE VODKA Cathead was the first legal distillery in Mississippi, and they have bottled their one-of-a-kind spirits since firing up the stills over a decade ago. With this vodka, their most citrus-filled option, they’ve packed all the natural freshness of bitter oranges and satsumas into every drop. There are also subtle hints of vanilla that will make your taste buds beg for more. Be sure to check out our recipe for New Classic Fruitcake featuring this delicious sip on page 42. $19.95; catheaddistillery.com 2 THE LOVELESS CAFE OLD-FASHIONED SORGHUM This Nashville landmark has been around for more than 60 years, and you can get a taste of their timeless Southern meals right in your very own home thanks to their online store. From their famous biscuits to barbecue sauces, they’ve…

BRASSERIE LA BANQUE Charleston, South Carolina This recently opened French eatery welcomed its first guests this past July in one of downtown Charleston’s most beautiful and historic buildings. The dining room’s elegantly restored antique finishes perfectly complement the menu’s traditional French dishes as well as their more innovative fare. Bouillabaisse (a rich fish stew) and steak frites are just a few of their notable mains, but no meal is complete without their drool-worthy, house-made brioche. brasserielabanque.com HILLSIDE FARMACY | Austin, Texas Dripping in Southern charm, this former drugstore (hence the pun) turned restaurant retained its vintage tile floors, wooden display cabinets, and old-school feel. All those qualities come together to create the perfect spot in Austin for incredible breakfasts, brunches, lunches, and even casual dinners. Still need more convincing? Sips like the Wasabi…

Cheesy Broccoli Casserole MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Try it once, and you’ll want to incorporate this recipe into your regular rotation. ½ cup unsalted butter1 cup chopped sweet onion3 cloves garlic, minced½ cup all-purpose flour2½ cups low-sodium vegetable broth, room temperature1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened6 ounces smoked Cheddar cheese, shredded3½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, divided1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon ground marjoram½ teaspoon ground black pepper8 cups small broccoli florets (about 1¼ pounds)1 cup crushed buttery round crackers2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 5 minutes. Whisk in flour; cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly. Gradually whisk in broth;…

DURING THE HOLIDAYS when my children, Dallas and Hannah, were growing up, they always had their own favorite recipes when it came time to plan the meal. I always asked my husband, George, first, “Anything special you want for Christmas dinner?” Sometimes, he’d offer a suggestion or two. Other times, he’d just say, “Whatever you think, Mama.” Dallas and Hannah, on the other hand, always had a list: butter beans, green bean casserole, Squash Alabama, biscuits, cornbread, sweet potato casserole, cranberry sauce and dressing, honey-glazed ham, turkey, and on and on. If I cooked everything they asked for, I would have had to put two dining room tables end to end just to fit it all! “I wanted my family to know the meal was intended to be ‘from me to…