Taste of the South January/February 2022

THE OTHER MORNING as I was buttering a biscuit in a rare moment of relative quiet, I thought about my sister’s wedding last summer in the sun-dappled hills of northern Virginia. The day couldn’t have been more beautiful, and among the other delightful and memorable moments, I got to catch up with my Uncle Barry, whom I hadn’t seen since my wedding. During the conversation, he gave me a bottle of honey from the bees he keeps on his farm. In the meantime, I’ve been parsing it out here and there and thinking about him and the wedding whenever I use it. Whenever we gather around the table—whether for a special occasion or a simple weeknight dinner—we create indelible memories. In this issue, Brenda Gantt reminisces about a winter storm that…

dishing with Taking the seafood world by storm with CHEF MICHAEL NELSON GW FINS 808 Bienville Street | New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 gwfins.com | @chefmikenola (504) 581-3467 If you’re unfamiliar with the area, GW Fins is a can’t-miss stop for quality seafood in the heart of the Crescent City’s famous French Quarter. When Michael Nelson took on a job in the iconic restaurant’s kitchen, he was working under legendary seafood chef Tenney Flynn. After cutting his teeth for several years, he is now the executive chef. But his culinary journey didn’t begin in the South. He spent his childhood setting lobster traps off the Maine coasts before graduating from culinary school and gaining experience in renowned kitchens in cities from Chicago to Seattle. The decision to relocate down South came in 2005, and he’s spent…

Grapefruit Shaker Pie MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE This tangy pie incorporates an entire grapefruit to ensure a generous supply of citrus flavor. 1 large red or pink grapefruit1¾ cups granulated sugar, plus more for dusting¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar½ teaspoon kosher salt1 (14.1-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts3 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 teaspoon ground cardamom4 large eggs, lightly beaten1 teaspoon vanilla extract¼ cup unsalted butter, melted1 egg white, lightly beaten1 tablespoon waterSweetened whipped cream, to serve 1. Using a citrus zester, remove zest from grapefruit to equal 2 tablespoons, avoiding white pith. Remove pith from grapefruit and cut into sections over a small bowl. Finely chop grapefruit sections to equal ¾ cup. Squeeze membrane and remaining segments to yield ¼ cup juice. In a medium bowl, combine zest, chopped sections, and reserved juice. Stir in…

TO ME, GREEN is not just a holiday color. It is, more specifically, a winter color. Through the years, my husband, George, and I grew collards and turnips and kale and spinach. He loved kale. I love collards. Since George passed away, I haven’t planted a garden, and I miss it from time to time. Oh, I don’t miss pulling the weeds or hoeing the rows, but I do miss pulling food from the ground and putting it on the table. And, I especially miss having a hot pot of fresh, homegrown collard greens. Last fall, I was at my favorite produce stand (Wingard’s Market in Andalusia, Alabama) buying some fresh collards. As I sorted through the selection looking for the deepest green leaves, an elderly man approached me and said,…

Baked Penne Rigate with Spinach and Mozzarella MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS This weeknight staple is simple yet filled with flavor. 3 tablespoons olive oil1 cup chopped yellow onion3 cloves garlic, minced½ cup white wine2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes2 tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano1 teaspoon crushed red pepper¼ teaspoon ground black pepper2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed1 cup heavy whipping cream1 (6-ounce) bag fresh baby spinach, chopped1 pound rigatoni pasta, cooked al dente per package instructions1 pound mozzarella cheese, coarsely shredded and dividedGarnish: fresh thyme, fresh oregano 1. In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions; cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant,…

MISSISSIPPI MUD IS A CHOCOLATE LOVER’S DREAM. The history of the decadent dessert is about as murky as its namesake—the muddy banks of the Mississippi River that its chocolaty base resembles—but there’s no doubt it’s a Southern favorite. Whether the moniker Mississippi mud makes you think “pie” or “cake,” the two desserts are similar yet not synonymous. The classic pie is made up of a cookie-based crust, a fudgy chocolate custard or pudding filling, and whipped cream or ice cream on top. Mississippi mud cake incorporates marshmallows, frosting, and nuts atop fluffy chocolate cake for another irresistible treat. Pie, cake, or another take on the beloved flavors, these recipes are all worthy of becoming classics in your kitchen. Mississippi Mud Dip MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS Make any get-together better by serving this fun…