Decanter Apr-2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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1 мин.
the joy of terroir

Cooley Ranch vineyard covers 78ha in northern California’s Sonoma County. The yellowing autumnal leaves of the eight-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines seen here add to the colourful patchwork of the Coastal Mountains, where elevations range from 200m to 600m. The deep red soils are of volcanic origin and are thought to contribute (along with high levels of UV exposure) to the full-bodied intensity of the Bordeaux blends produced here. The site joined the Rodney Strong Vineyards portfolio in 2003 when it was leased from Crawford Cooley, whose family first planted vines here in the 1930s. Vines grow across the Sky High summit and Red Mountain, both geologically diverse as they were formed by the meeting of two tectonic plates. Cooley Ranch is ecologically rich too, attracting bald eagles, cougars, deer and…

2 мин.
john stimpfig

SINCE WE BEGAN the Decanter Man or Woman of the Year award in 1984, there have been immensely distinguished winners from around the wine world including France, Germany, the UK and the US, Lebanon, Australia, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Austria. With that long list of countries in mind I offer my sincere congratulations to Eduardo Chadwick, who becomes the very first Chilean to receive this hugely prestigious accolade. It goes without saying that each year, the competition is incredibly tough. So too are the judging criteria; the winner must have made a major and lasting contribution to wine, both in their own field or region and beyond. As you will see from Peter Richards MW’s interview (turn to p38), Chadwick meets those criteria in spades. Some years ago, I wrote in a…

6 мин.
amonth in wine

Pol Roger finds rare 19th-century bottles 118 YEARS AGO disaster struck Champagne Pol Roger’s cellars in Epernay. Following a period of extreme cold and damp, on 23 February 1900, vast stretches of wall suddenly collapsed during the night, demolishing adjoining buildings and burying 1.5 million bottles of wine, along with 500 casks. The resulting damage was so extensive that the ground above the cellars caved in, causing the street level to fall by four metres. Large fissures also formed in the nearby roads, rue Henri le Large and rue Godart-Roger. A contemporary account from Le Vigneron Champenois journal tells how Pol Roger’s son, Maurice Roger, awoke at 2am to ‘a dull rumble similar to the sound of thunder’. It noted: ‘When the workers arrived a few hours later, the disaster was complete.’ Maurice and…

1 мин.
in brief

Château Franc Mayne has become the latest high-profile Bordeaux winery to be sold. Jean-Pierre Savare, chairman of Oberthur Finance, bought control of the St-Emilion grand cru classé estate, owned by Griet Van Malderen and Hervé Laviale since 2005. Savare has asked Martine Cazeneuve to oversee Franc Mayne. Tenuta San Guido’s anticipated Sassicaia 2015 has been released via Armit Wines, the estate’s exclusive UK importer. Priced at £565 for a six-bottle case, in bond, Sassicaia 2015 is available en primeur and will be shipped in summer. Tenuta San Guido has compared 2015 to the celebrated 1985 vintage, a former Decanter Wine Legend. Increased sales in China and across Asia have buoyed Treasury Wine Estates in the first half of its financial year, after its decision to cut volume supply to less profitable parts…

3 мин.

Ageing gracefully RAY ROBERTS’ EXPERIENCE with a Croizet-Bages 1975 (‘Letters’, March 2018 issue) recalls a recent encounter with Port. At Christmas I thought it prudent to broach the last bottle from my late father’s cellar – he died in 1964. The label, almost illegible, said ‘Taylor Fladgate Vintage Character’. No date, but almost certainly 1952. Not a very promising last throw. The cork disintegrated but the level was high and the colour good. But the taste – it was magnificent! The second-last bottle from the same cellar had been Taylor’s 1945, a legendary vintage Port, and I tasted no difference between them. I take comfort, as I approach my 80th birthday, that time can embellish even the most unlikely objects! Dr Philip Edmondson, Stroud, Gloucestershire Impressions of India HAVING MOVED FROM Hong Kong to Mumbai…

1 мин.
ready or not…

MY LOVE AFFAIR with Rioja began when I visited the region in the late 1980s. I brought a few bottles home, mainly 1978 and 1982 gran reservas, and regrettably drank them far too early. Since then, all Riojas I buy are stored for several years before opening. Last year, a friend bought me a gran reserva from Majestic for my 70th birthday. He mentioned my name to the manager, who, when I next visited, wished me a happy birthday and handed me a mystery bottle, saying: ‘You will drink it, won’t you?’ (It was a standing joke between us that I never drank what I bought.) I did: it was a 1995 gran reserva. The next time I visited, the manager asked me what I’d thought of it. ‘Wonderful,’ I said, thanking…