Decanter Jul-2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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1 мин.
the joy of terroir

La Soulane vineyard covers 1.5ha of the Pic St-Loup appellation, just outside Montpellier in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region. The vineyard’s name roughly translates to ‘south-facing hillside’, in reference to its favourable aspect in the foothills of the Cévennes mountain range. It was established by Jean Orliac, founder of family-run winery Domaine de l’Hortus – named after the stark limestone cliff pictured here. He planted these Mourvèdre vines in 1984, judging that the sun-soaked slope would be best-suited to a late-ripening variety. The resulting wine is blended with Grenache and Syrah from cooler, north-facing parcels to make the domaine’s full-bodied Grande Cuvée. La Soulane’s soils are littered with Cretaceous limestone rocks, left by glaciers. These help to reradiate the sun’s heat, as well as providing good drainage and forcing root systems to…

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2 мин.
john stimpfig

THE FRESCOBALDI FAMILY has always played a long game. This formidable Italian dynasty came to Florence as silk merchants in the 13th century, thereafter becoming bankers and vintners. Remarkably, their first wines were made in 1308. Some 700 years on, the family is most famous for its dazzling collection of Tuscan estates including Nipozzano, Pomino, Rèmole, CastelGiocondo and Ammiraglia not to mention Luce, Ornellaia and Masseto. Despite these jewels in Chianti, Montalcino, Maremma and Bolgheri, one crucial piece of the Tuscan jigsaw remained frustratingly elusive. ‘All my life, I dreamed of owning the perfect estate in Chianti Classico,’ says president Lamberto Frescobaldi. ‘Over 30 years, I’ve lost count of the number of properties I saw and turned down.’ But there was one – San Donato in Perano, between Radda and Gaiole –…

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5 мин.
a month in wine

Price cuts welcomed in early en primeur MARGAUX ESTATE CHATEAU Palmer earned plaudits for setting the tone of the early Bordeaux 2017 en primeur campaign with a significant price cut on its 2016 release. The Palmer 2017 vintage was released at €192 ex-Bordeaux, according to Liv-ex, representing a 20% drop on the equivalent 2016 release price of €240. It was also down on the 2015 release price of €210 ex-Bordeaux, yet still higher than the 2014 release price of €160, according to figures previously reported by Decanter in past en primeur campaigns. Palmer, certified biodyamic and a third growth in Bordeaux’s 1855 classification, but dubbed a ‘super second’, saw its 2017 first wine rated 95 points by Decanter’s Jane Anson. Its release was welcomed by many in the trade who had been hoping to see…

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1 мин.
in brief

The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) will remove coverage of spirits from its Level 4 diploma and Level 2 wines and spirits courses from August 2019. It will launch a new Level 3 award in spirits instead. WSET said the changes would allow ‘more in-depth coverage of wine’ in a new-look Level 4 diploma course, to include a research assignment looking at current trends. A new, direct London to Bordeaux train service that cuts out the one-hour changeover in Paris is being planned, according to HS1, which runs the UK’s high-speed rail route that carries the Eurostar. The new route could be up and running within a few years, it said. Champagne Pol Roger, Brut Réserve NV was revealed as one of the wines served to 600 reception guests…

2 мин.
letters

Polyvalent Pinot Gris I SEE NO reason for Andrew Jefford to apologise for the use of the word polyvalent (see ‘Letters’, July 2018). While it may be a slight ‘gallicism’, the Oxford English Dictionary defines it as ‘having many different functions, forms or facets’. That fits the versatility of Pinot Gris. As an aside, my wife has a massive problem with tannins and cannot drink any red wine. As a consequence we drink Pinot Gris often because of its polyvalent character. Colin Rigg, Châtillon-sur-Seine Gut feeling ANDREW JEFFORD STATES, in his February 2018 column, that: ‘The principal function of the soil is to stop the plant falling over, and to dose the plant with water through the root system.’ He suggests we consider that ‘the lineaments of aroma and flavour are made in the air…

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1 мин.
guiding lights

I WAS IMPRESSED to notice Braille printed on the label of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape recently. Chapoutier has included Braille on all its labels since 1996, the result of a conversation between Michel Chapoutier and Gilbert Montagne, a blind friend, about the difficulties he faced buying wine. In 2001 the Co-op supermarket introduced Braille on its own-label wines. Over two million people in the UK are visually impaired and wine appreciation is a pastime only marginally diminished by lack of sight. Braille on the label enables the blind to independently choose their own wine: a real pleasure. Chapoutier and the Co-op should be applauded for their work to ensure that all wine lovers have the opportunity to explore their passion, regardless of vision. Dr Emily Stedman, Sheffield…