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Decanter November 2019

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
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5 мин.
month in wine

French wine production down in 2019 Extreme weather including frost, drought, hail and high temperatures, has been blamed for a predicted fall of 12% in French wine output in 2019. France’s agriculture ministry added that this year’s estimated harvest puts it at 4% below the average national production over the past five years. The full gamut of severe weather conditions have been thrown at French growers this year, from widespread heatwaves to violent hailstorms and wildfires, slashing overall production to 43.4 million hectolitres – down from 49.4m hl last year. The regions of Burgundy and Beaujolais were particularly badly hit, with harvest volumes said to be down 26% year-on-year. ‘What we are seeing, as the meteorologists have said we would, are extreme climatic events,’ Inter Beaujolais vice-president David Ratignier told Decanter. ‘There is no middle…

1 мин.
in brief

Some of New York’s richest wine lovers have filed a $8.3m lawsuit against businessman Omar Khan. They claim he conned them into investing in luxury dinner parties with some of the world’s rarest wines. Despite Khan reporting that these investments were profitable, it was discovered that ‘most of the “ventures” were in fact not real’, claim the 13 plaintiffs. Khan has denied any wrongdoing and blamed ‘cashflow issues’ for some dinners not taking place. Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional are among varieties to be trialled at a new research vineyard at Larkmead winery in Napa. Larkmead posits that climate change may force Napa Valley to grow less Cabernet Sauvignon in the future. Larkmead winemaker Dan Petroski said the region needs to prepare for the possibility that Cabernet ‘may no longer be…

1 мин.
think global, act local

A timely article from Rupert Joy on the environmental impact of the wine industry (July 2019). Initiatives such as reducing water waste, lowering emissions, reducing pesticides and improving soil quality are commendable and likely to be easier for consumers to support than moves to increase pricing or even a switch to lighter bottles. Consumers are not deaf to the calls of the environmental lobby, but initiatives that compromise drinking pleasure may be a hard sell. I feel this article missed an obvious way in which both consumers and the environment can benefit. Drink local! Winemaking expertise and the number of vineyards in the UK have soared and quality continues to improve. No one wants to forfeit the pleasures of Rioja, Chianti or Provence rosé, but surely given the challenges posed by…

2 мин.
champagne jacquart

Since its birth in 1964, Champagne Jacquart has nurtured and cemented a reputation for its expansive network of growers and their vineyards, encapsulated by its Mosaique range which pulls together all these individual strands of Champagne to form an all-encompassing portrayal of the region’s finest. Its latest venture turns that concept almost entirely inside out. The aim of representing the essence of Champagne remains paramount; however Jacquart has fastidiously examined each of those threads and pinpointed one which deserves a stage entirely of its own. The consequence of this project is an extraordinarily limited release of just 1,000 bottles of unadulterated Chardonnay from a single grower and the renowned Montaigu vineyard in Chouilly Grand Cru in the Côte de Blancs. Its rarity is compounded by the distinct possibility that this cuvée will…

3 мин.
jane anson

I can still remember one of the sadder lunches that I had in Bordeaux about 10 years ago. It was with a group of winemaking friends that I met when I first came here, all from family estates in the Bordeaux, Blaye and Entre-Deux-Mers appellations, and all aged under 30, full of big ideas for how to transform their properties. During lunch, one after the other, three winemakers announced that they were getting out of the business, going to jobs that were steadier and better paid, unable to break out of the appellation trap where the small guys, working through négociants, are hemmed in by price ceilings attached to individual appellations. I was reminded of this recently, when I met Côtes de Bourg winemaker Oswaldo Hernandez, owner of Clos des Moiselles. Here…

3 мин.
cabernet crusaders

Doubleback For former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe, owning a winery was an aspiration that combined his passion for fine wine and love of the Walla Walla Valley. Bledsoe returned to his hometown in 2007 to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen, part of SeVein Vineyards of Distinction. He launched Doubleback winery in 2008, with the goal of making ultra-premium Cabernet Sauvignon, and since its first release Doubleback has received numerous accolades. For Bledsoe and winemaker, Josh McDaniels, the focus is on quality. ‘Cabernet Sauvignon is thriving in the Walla Walla Valley,’ says McDaniels. ‘Our dramatic diurnal swings, diverse soil series, long summer days, and a warm climate help us shape classic, true-to-varietal, Cabernet flavours while still achieving great ripeness and energy.’ Mark Ryan Largely self-taught, Mark Ryan McNeilly founded his winery in 1999, honing…