Содержание выпуска: Issue 839 — Grazia

WE'RE USED TO September feeling like a fresh start. But, as the UK comes to terms with the death of the Queen, it's felt more like seismic change. Quite literally, the end of the Elizabethan era – and most likely the last time we'll see a female monarch on our throne. I hope you've managed to get a copy of our special souvenir issue of Grazia, paying tribute to the late Queen's life, style and legacy. But in this, our biannual Big Fashion Issue, we look forward. On page 40, royal correspondent Emily Andrews analyses what's ahead for the new Princess of Wales. Elsewhere, in our cover story, we meet the Ukrainian designers hoping that fashion can help rebuild their war-torn country. And we also offer up plenty of style…

OF ALL THE THINGS I've learned about the Queen in the days since her death, that she said of her public outings, ‘We're in the happiness business,’ is my favourite. It's such a lovely principle: this idea that, rather than being anything as airy-fairy, fleeting and intangible as an emotion, happiness is an industry. A thing you work for. As if all those hours and days and, presumably, ultimately, years the Queen devoted to turning up, waving, shaking hands, having flowers chucked at her willy-nilly, were hours (days, years) spent grafting at the coal face of Happiness, carving it out and distributing it – like Will Ferrell in Elf, only more, y'know, queenly. The royal family in ‘the Happiness Business’ is the jolly sunny salve to the royal family as…

10 HOT STORIES ANYTHING GOES Lean in to the ‘no rules’ mood and get your clash on. Want to wear stripes, spots and florals all at once? This is perfectly organised chaos, thank you very much. SUPERSIZED DENIM Your everyday blue jeans are getting supersized this season. Perfectly oversized, with just the right amount of slouch, look for XL jean jackets or baggy flares. THE HIGH-LOW It's your T-shirt's time to shine. Pair tank tops and tees with silk slips, midiskirts and all things chic for a high-low mix. Try pairing a band or white T-shirt with a lace-trim slip. Or opt for a plain vest (Prada's is becoming the understated hero piece of the season) with a prim skirt. GOTH GIRL AUTUMN All black = boring? Think again. A…

AS STARTER WEEKS GO, Myha'la Herrold's first on Industry was a doozy. The plane, the first she'd ever taken out of the US, took her not to London, where the smash-hit drama (think Skins meets Succession) is set, but to Cardiff, where it's filmed. There, she was plonked in a car and whisked off to meet season one co-director, Lena Dunham, at a cottage in the Welsh countryside for an away day with the cast. ‘She had us over for tea, crumpets and Domino's pizza,’ says Myha'la. They ‘played some games, talked about life’, then Lena pulled out her phone and sent a snap of the gang to Brad Pitt – as you do – just to break the ice. ‘It was kind of crazy.’ Industry, written by former bankers…

He's spent the last 48 hours co-hosting a party with Timothee Chalamet, dancing with Kate Moss and being toasted by Salma Hayek, but there's one pressing question I need to ask Edward Enninful: is he going to put Liz Truss in Vogue? ‘I've heard it,’ he says of the PM's alleged quest to be featured. ‘I thought it was funny. I've seen the mocked-up covers… We're all just waiting to see what direction she takes the country in. So we'll see.’ For now, Truss will have to get in line. Under Enninful's instruction, the magazine's recent cover stars have included Linda Evangelista, Beyoncé, Gisele Bündchen and Naomi Campbell. It's an impressive feat the British Vogue editor and European editorial director of Vogue makes look all too easy. But then, Time…

GRAZIA FEATURE ‘I'M MORE INTERESTED in fashion now than I've ever been,’ says the writer Bernardine Evaristo, 63. ‘I'd never been anywhere near high fashion until I won the Booker Prize three years ago, but since then I've done a lot of photo shoots and, suddenly, I'm being dressed in designer clothes.’ She grins, ‘And I like it.’ Success may have brought new labels into her life, but it's clear that her aesthetic is very much her own. ‘I wear as many colours as possible,’ she says, and the day of our interview is no exception: she's in an orange T-shirt with navy dungarees, yellow Birkenstocks, and an African-print headscarf in pink, orange, green and blue. She still thinks fondly of a coat she wore in the late 1970s: ‘I…

I was home in Kyiv. At 5:30am my husband woke me, saying, ‘Lilia, wake up, the war has started.’ I will never forget those words. I used to see the trees from the windows, though not that morning. I could only see the smoke.’ Designer Lilia Litkovskaya recounts the moment in February when her life changed. At the same time, a thousand miles away, Milan Fashion Week was in full swing. It was an irony lost on no one, with the clash of these two realities leaving the fashion industry grappling awkwardly with its role in moments of crisis. Lilia faced this paradox when, just a week after fleeing Kyiv with her toddler daughter – first crossing into Poland before flying to Milan – she was due to show at…

GRAZIA BIG FASHION ISSUE THE MILE-HIGH BOOT Wade into the new season in Chanel's thigh-high rubber waders. What else? BEDAZZLE YOUR UTILITY BELT Fendi has introduced its Fendiography Hobo bag in micro-houndstooth with matching utility corset belt. Countryside chic at its very finest. LEAN INTO FUZZ Venture into woollies season courtesy of Max Mara's fuzzy fits-all Brief bag – the perfect accompaniment to a fisherman's sweater. HEAVY TREAD BIKERS Stomp into the new season in Emporio Armani's kick-ass lug-sole boots. DOUBLE DOWN ON PRINT Raincoat? Check. Rain boots? Check. Dior's outdoorappropriate Catherine tote? Check. Bring on the showers! SLIP INTO SUPER SOLES Cure rainy day blues wearing Loewe's joyful Flamenco boots. Sunshine in your step. TWEED, BUT MAKE IT LUXE Celine's Triomphe shoulder bag returns in a perfect autumnal tartan.…

J'adore Parfum D'eau, £126 for 100ml (dior.com) Bearing the olfactive hallmarks of the original, but in a different, deliciously milky and nourishing texture, consider this a new cult classic. Tom Ford Noir Extreme Parfum, £120 for 50ml (tomford.co.uk) This warm and spicy juice, laced with cardamom, amber and tonka bean, will get you excited to hunker down. Twee girl autumn, anyone? Celine Haute Parfumerie Bois Dormant, £195 for 100ml (celine.com) Celine's gratifyingly chunky monochrome bottles are as iconic as the scents themselves – in this the cedar and vetiver sit seductively on skin, while iris butter and juniper enliven and enrich. Prada Paradoxe, £118 for 90ml EDP (prada.com) A sweet yet not saccharine take on white florals, this dries down to something intriguing thanks to an amber accord. And in…

Have your say… Email us at feedback@graziamagazine.co.uk Find us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram @GraziaUK LIZ IS THE BIZ Sometimes we pick up a magazine for escapism, to look at fashion that we often cannot afford because it looks pretty while giving us an idea with regard to cheaper substitutes. Not everything should be politicised; it can lose the point. While you mention ‘women's issues’ (Are you ready for the challenge, Prime Minister?, 19 Sept) you overlook the fact I that the new Prime Minister is a successful woman. And you say she will need good luck. It is not good luck to have been elected Prime Minister. It's down to hard work and pulling together as a team. That's the message you need to promote. Lizzie Star letter DIRTY TRICKS…

1. Up ROY KENT His off-screen Ted Lasso alter ego Brett Goldstein won an Emmy for him (quite right), then swore in his acceptance speech, which is the least Roy Kent would have done. 2. New in BARB FROM SPRUNG The breakout star of this generally perfect Amazon Freevee comedy, which makes great use of early stage Covid 19 nostalgia (no, we didn't know that was A Thing either). 3. New in QUEEN CONSORT Early days, but Camilla's coming through strong in the new royal order, no? Big hopes for that one, going forward. 4. Up MOTSI MABUSE Strictly season stirs, contestants are confirmed, and judges speak! First up, Motsi, who explained the judging panel do not chill together after hours. ‘No. None of that,’ she said. 5. New in…

IT'S HARD TO imagine a more sombre start to a political era than the one Liz Truss has just experienced. Britain's new Prime Minister had planned to make her debut in a blaze of energy, ending a summer of political limbo with a flurry of announcements on tackling the cost of living crisis. Instead, she found herself, barely three days into the job, trying to find the words for her first private audience with a newly bereaved King. She hadn't even finished appointing her new Cabinet when Parliament was suspended to allow the traditional period of mourning for a monarch. Although Whitehall has been discreetly rehearsing royal funeral plans for years, this will still have been a daunting moment for a new Downing Street team anxious not to misjudge the…

Paul says ‘hero ingredient’, ‘this year's soggy bottom’. BONUS POINT ‘claggy’ and ‘moist’ Underdog baker who has so far been storified as way less competent than they are has breakthrough on week six, suddenly becoming ‘surprise’ frontrunner. Sandro wins (early guesswork). Becomes first ever bona fide Bake Off pin-up. Instead of cookery column, bags Burberry ad campaign and a GQ cover. Matt and Noel do a surreal skit for the time check. Harassed bakers smile weakly. Paul Hollywood delivers one of his hard-earned handshakes to female contestant, camera narrows to his blue steel gaze, lingering one second too long. Technical challenge involves an obscure cake a researcher has spent three months uncovering at the back end of an extensive Google search. Prue mentions her fondness for alcohol on tasting a…

10 HOT STORIES MR LIZ TRUSS, also known as Hugh O'Leary, could find the lost city of Atlantis, cure male pattern baldness and run over a panda bear in one wild night and still generate fewer headlines than his predecessor at No.10, Carrie Johnson. Few have endured the abuse hurled at the 34-year-old former Tory comms guru. Boris Johnson's own team infamously called her ‘Lady Macbeth’, ‘Princess Nut Nut’ and ‘Carrie Antoinette’. Yet many expect big things from her now that she's exited the famous old door. ‘What next for Carrie?’ is occupying strategy groups, NGOs and agents up and down the land. When she left No.10, Samantha Cameron started fashion label Cefinn; Cherie Blair became a global champion of women's rights; and across the pond, Michelle Obama has arguably…

SOMA SARA RECALLS Some of the testimonies that have been shared anonymously on her website, Everyone's Invited. ‘One girl wrote about finding hundreds of images on her boyfriend's laptop, taken while she was sleeping, and discovering that he was secretly filming them having sex,’ she says. ‘There are horrific stories about girls having their intimate pictures shared on WhatsApp groups and Google drives, accessible to hundreds of boys. Or having their nudes projected on to the walls of house parties. Awful things – and then they weren't believed.’ Two years ago, Sara, 23, made it her mission to give those girls a platform where, collectively, their voices were too loud to ignore. She's been hailed the ‘spokesperson of a generation’ for shining a light on the rape culture in Britain's…

GRAZIA FEATURE EVERYONE'S GOT ONE: a memory of a time a work friend went beyond any reasonable co-worker expectations and saved the day. Like the junior beauty staffer whose friend brought her a fresh outfit to change into the morning after she stayed out at a party all night. Or the PR assistant whose work bestie insisted on helping her stuff press releases into envelopes late into the night and then surprised her with pizza. Or the magazine assistant who loitered outside the fashion cupboard while inside another assistant tried on designer dresses – an eagle-eyed lookout for approaching bosses (not that I'm writing from experience). Whether you call them work BFFs, work wives or just plain friends, the relationships we form at work can be among the most fulfilling…

GRAZIA BIG FASHION ISSUE Model Yutende at PRM Agency Hair Christopher Gatt at Frank Agency using Oribe Make-up artist Georgia Hope using Sunday Riley and Danessa Myricks Bookings director Christie Phedon Movement director Harry Alexander Photographer's assistants Federico Covarelli, Pietro Lazzaris Fashion assistants Ada Matylda, Bella Dupee…

FOR A WHILE, I FELT like I'd fallen out of love with fashion. Partly because it all started to feel a bit formulaic (Instagram fatigue is real), partly because of deeper considerations, such as climate change. Then I stumbled across the vintage store One Of A Kind in Notting Hill, which has an incredible selection of collectable runway pieces, and it changed everything. The people who work there gave me a real fashion education. Soon I began renting pieces from them, like the Galliano and Cavalli dresses I wore to the Cannes Film Festival in 2021. It shifted my mindset. When I was younger, I couldn't afford luxury brands, so my first ‘It bag’ was second-hand. It was a Louis Vuitton Speedy I got it off my then-boyfriend's sister, who…

GRAZIA INTERVIEW YOU MIGHT HAVE noticed something strange happening to your wardrobe recently. Waistbands dipping beneath the hips, peekaboo cutouts snaking across the midriff, bras (or, for the particularly emboldened, nipples) peeping out behind semi-sheer fabrics. Sexy is back. Yet it is a new type of sexy, cast in a more nuanced, elevated and quieter mould than the terrifyingly tight, tacky one of the past. It is tempting to credit this gear shift as a kickback against a loungewear fug, but perhaps it owes more to the women designers who are driving it. Women like Supriya Lele. Just look at her A/W '22 collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week in February. As ferocious winds tore through the capital, she created a storm of her own as models – including a…

IF EVER THERE WAS an aesthetic to light up one's mind, then Palm Springs would be it. Stare at any Slim Aarons photograph for long enough, and the chances are you'll transport yourself into his lens, perhaps in the back garden of a boxy, whitewashed condo, splayed upon its immaculate lawn or else sprawled across a sun lounger. Or maybe you're in a pastel-coloured soft-top car, driving down straight, symmetrical streets lined with tropical trees, or else enjoying an aperitif on a candy-coloured sofa, gold hoops in your ears and cocktail glass in hand. In it swims a gargantuan olive. Part sci-fi futurism, part ode to a bygone era, it's no wonder the Palm Springs look is an aesthetic we just can't quit. Popularised in Los Angeles in the 1950s…

20 SEPTEMBER 2022 Her Majesty's legacy will prevailThe past weeks have been poignant for us all. With the death of Queen Elizabeth II, we will likely never see another female monarch in our lifetime. At Grazia, we paid tribute to Her Majesty with a souvenir issue that celebrated her character, style and grace. Above all, we'll remember her devotion to duty as the longest reigning British monarch. The Queen personified the ‘Keep calm and carry on’ ethos. As the country enters a period of hardship, we must emulate her resilience and support one another. As she once said, ‘It's in times of difficulty that we need to remember that we have much more in common than there is dividing us.’…

INTRODUCING CULT CASHMERE The A-list hobby du jour? Cashmere brands. Supermodel Gigi Hadid's new label, Guest in Residence, is a love letter to all things cashmere – think slim-fit joggers, hoodies, tanks, scarves and beanies in a myriad of warm hues. Forget traditional roll necks, too – her take on rugby shirts and cropped polo shirts is something she's coined ‘varsity punk’. See also: Brad Pitt's new unisex line, God's True Cashmere, which reworks traditional cashmere into checked shirts and trousers. Cosy. GORPCORE* Yes, another ‘core’. A fashion trend that's both practical and chic? Keep reading. Your indoor/outdoor kit should include Patagonia's fleece, a North Face puffer and, of course, a pair of hiking boots – see Boss and Salomon for more details. CARA <3 KARL In homage to their…

10 HOT STORIES TWENTY-FIVE YEARS ago, a 25-year-old Gwyneth Paltrow was engaged to Brad Pitt and would soon win her first Oscar for Shakespeare In Love. By then she had already starred in several films, including Emma and Se7en (where she met Pitt), and went on to appear in '90s classics Sliding Doors, The Talented Mr Ripley, opposite Jude Law, seven Marvel films and the Iron Man trilogy, helping to secure her place on several Forbes lists of highest-paid actresses in Hollywood. And then she quietly walked away and went on to create a business that in 2019 was valued at almost $400 million. One that spawned an industry that the likes of Kate Moss (with Cosmoss), Jennifer Aniston (said to be launching a health and beauty brand this year)…

DO BIMBOS READ James Joyce? There is photo evidence to suggest that they do. In 1955, the photojournalist Eve Arnold documented Marilyn Monroe reading Ulysses in a Long Island playground. Platinum hair coiffed, lips slightly parted in concentration, she sits barefoot (toenails painted, naturally) in a bathing suit engrossed by the modernist masterpiece. It is my favourite picture of Monroe, not only for its candid intimacy, but because it succinctly captures the complicated, apparently contradictory, human condition. The cerebral and the sexy, brains and beauty, aren't mutually exclusive. Nevertheless, the deeply ingrained assumption that Monroe was a bimbo – possibly the archetypal bimbo – remains. But even those who think she was a bimbo can't argue with Monroe's cultural clout. Positive reviews and prizes are great, but the real indicator…

BEST MARKETS ■ Portobello Road, London W10 5TY; visitportobello.com Trading for more than 150 years, Portobello Road is the beating heart of London's second-hand scene. ■ Rose Bowl Flea Market, 1001 Rose Bowl Dr, Pasadena, CA 91103; rgcshows.com Heading to LA? Time your trip to coincide with this legendary flea market of more than 2,500 vendors, which takes place every month on the second Sunday. ■ Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, 93400 Saint-Ouen, Paris This vast market sells antiques, furniture, books, clothing, art, you name it, and is more like a village of charming shops. BEST FOR THE RED CARPET ■ Lily et Cie, 9044 Burton Way, Beverly Hills. CA 90211 Owned by Rita Watnick, Lily et Cie is the boutique behind the incredible vintage worn by Renée Zellweger, Penelope…

GRAZIA HEALTH + BEAUTY TRUE BLUE BABY Yes, you can wear denim blue eyeliners and shadows. ‘From turquoise to cobalt, denim and midnight blue, there's a tone to suit everyone,’ promises Andrew Gallimore, the pro behind these looks, who loves blue for making the eyes look instantly brighter. If you want to up the ante, experiment with a two-toned liner look. GLOSSY POSSE Glassy, glossy and hydrating, Lancôme's cult classic Juicy Tubes are back and leading the way for the '90s revival. ‘Apply straight on lips or layer over a bold lipstick,’ says Andrew. ‘For a plumping effect, define lips with a neutral-brown lip liner and place gloss in the centre.’ YOU'RE A GEM ‘Think of it like putting on a necklace or earrings,’ says Andrew of adornment. ‘It's a…

IT'S TIME TO… DECORATE DANISH BREAKFAST Ganni's creative director Ditte Reffstrup in the kitchen of her home in Copenhagen, which she shares with her husband, Nicolaj, and three children. The cabinet's custom glass handles are made by their friend Nina Nørgaard. QUITE THE ENTRANCE The playful Laure Prouvost fountain is a tongue-in-cheek addition to the entrance hall. ARTIST'S RETREAT Artworks by Casper Sejersen and Christian Dinesen flank the 15-year-old sofa from Hay. THERE IS ONLY one rule in Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup's home: do not touch the boobs. The breasts in question don't belong to a person, however, but a fountain by the Turner Prize-winning artist Laure Prouvost (water spouts from the nipples) found in the entrance hall of their late-19th century villa in Copenhagen's residential Østerbro neighbourhood. That's the kind…

The last song I listened to… Hold Me Closer by Elton and Britney. The last book I read… The Ink Black Heart by Robert Galbraith. The last message I sent… an SOS from Nice airport when my flight was delayed. The last box set I binged… Yellowstone. The last piece I added to my wardrobe… Karen Millen leather pants. The last time I cried… when Kevin Costner was shot in Yellowstone. The last beauty product I finished… Clinique SPF 30 sunscreen. The last account I followed on Instagram… Úrsula Corberó (right; @ursulolita) from the TV show Money Heist. I'm halfway through the series and it's heaven. Ursula is gorgeous. The last meal I cooked… was sausages and mash, with a big green salad made from lettuce that I grew in raised beds that…