Food & Wine

Saveur April 2015

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
i might be a little obsessed with my kitchen.

For the past few years, I’ve been slowly transforming a sweet wreck of a Brooklyn house into a habitable home for my girlfriend, Evyn, and our two young children. And while I may have ignored the fact that small kids get bigger and need space to sleep and play, I did spend a lot of time thinking about the room where they’ll eat their eggs and oatmeal in the morning. I fretted over paint colors (fifty shades of greige) and the traffic patterns of little feet between table and fridge. I hunted down vintage brass cabinet hardware and boned up on hood extraction rates and generally went nuts in the process. In other words, I fell down the rabbit hole of kitchen renovation. And I loved every minute in the abyss—because the…

5 min.
collect calling

DESIGN FILES On a warm afternoon in San Francisco, Sylvan Mishima Brackett, the chef, owner, and chief flea-market addict at Izakaya Rintaro, stands in the new Mission District restaurant’s front garden explaining all the curios. Brackett, whose personal style is more architect than chef, with closes-haven hair, wrinkled button-down shirt, and faded jeans cuffed just so, points to a tree-stump doorstop; it turns out to be a Japanese mortar called an usu, which is used for pounding rice into mochi. Nearby is an odd-looking cast-iron and copper stove—a wood-burning rice cooker that looks as if it came straight out of a Kurosawa period piece. “A friend of mine cooked on it for years in Japan’s countryside,” Brackett explains. “She said that I could have it if I paid for the shipping, so I…

1 min.
the spice is right

TRENDING CUISINE Restaurants are at peak Midd’e East mania: Italian haunts, French-accented wine bars, and even clubby steakhouses are all embracing Levantine flavers. Particularly intriguing are all the new combinations now available, like soft-serve churned with ras el hanout at Provisions in Houston, strip steak with labneh at Edmund’s Oast in Charleston, and New Orleans chef Alon Shaya’s tricked-out hummus at his new Israeli place, Shaya. He pairs the creamy chickpea spread with baroque toppings like fried eggplant with tomatoes and za’atar, romanesco with pomegranate and dates, and pan-seared duck with leeks and tapenade (see page 22 for recipe). Shaya’s fancy spreads are just one of several fantastic innovations in contemporary American–Middle Eastern food. Turn the page for the cuisine’s key ingredients, techniques, and other big-time promoters.…

1 min.
sauce in the spotlight

TRENDING CUISINE Charmoula >> Traditionally a seafood marinade, this Moroccan condiment is slicked on lamb ribs at New York’s Estela and on bavette steak at Rhubarb in Asheville, North Carolina. To make it, pulse 1 ½ cups each roughly chopped cilantro and parsley, 2 tbsp. toasted and ground cumin seeds, 2 cloves garlic, salt, and freshly ground black pepper in a food processor until combined; transfer to a bowl and stir in ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Makes 1 cup. The next breakout Middle Eastern specialties Malawach: Practically pastry, this rich, flaky Yemenite bread is pan-fried in a tawa until golden. Basturma: A Middle Eastern charcuterie, this cured beef is covered with a spiced garlic paste and air-dried. Zhug: Made with cilantro, chiles, and a slew of spices, this five-alarm fiery hot sauce is a staple…

1 min.
three chefs’ picks

ASK THE EXPERTS Michael Solomonov Born in Israel, this Philadelphia empire builder has several hot spots, including the much lauded Israeli restaurant Zahav. He recently opened Dizengoff, a hummusiya, which focuses on outstanding hummus and Israeli salad (dizengoffphilly.com). Favorite Restaurant: “In what used to be a sketchy area of Tel Aviv, there’s a kabob shop called Busi. They serve a million salads, and everything else is cooked over charcoal.” Mourad Lahlou This Marrakesh native earned a Michelin star at San Francisco’s Aziza for his elegant Moroccan food. In January, he unveiled the glossy Mourad restaurant, offering dishes like roasted carrots with kumquat, hazelnut, and sumac (mouradsf.com). Essential Tool: “A couscous steamer (available at williamssonoma.com) is so versatile. One of my favorite things is to steam different foods, like meat and couscous, together.” Sara Kramer The chef, whose mother…

1 min.
hummus with pan-seared duck, leeks, and tapenade

Photo on page 20 SERVES 4 For an extra smooth hummus, chef Alon Shaya of Shaya in New Orleans peels the garbanzo beans after boiling them. 1 lb. dried garbanzo beans, soaked overnight in 2 tsp. baking soda and water, drained 1 tsp. baking soda 9 cloves garlic (8 peeled, 1 minced) 10 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 5 tbsp. tahini 1 tsp. ground cumin Kosher salt, to taste ½ cup olive oil, plus more 1 tsp. capers, rinsed and chopped 10 salt-cured black olives, pitted and roughly chopped 1 oil-packed anchovy fillet, drained and roughly chopped 3 tbsp. unsalted butter ¼ tsp. crushed red chile fakes 1 leek, washed and thinly sliced ½ tsp. minced thyme 2 skin-on duck breasts Pita bread, for serving Boil beans, baking soda, peeled garlic, and 10 cups water in a 6-qt. saucepan. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until beans are tender, about…