Food & Wine

Saveur April 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
tastes that travel

Hainan chicken rice is not a love-at-first-sight affair. Whitish, wobbly, skinon, bone-in, a cleaver-hacked bird, slicked in poaching juices and draped over some pedestrian-looking rice. Decidedly not a dish to eat with your eyes. Happily, that’s what we have mouths for. I first encountered it at the Maxwell Food Centre in Singapore, where fiercely debating which hawker stall makes the best chicken rice is something of a national pastime. Here, the curious visitor is subjected to endless impassioned (and contradictory) advice about where to taste the finest examples of the form. My jaundiced, jet-lagged initial assessment: I flew all that way for this? Then I took a bite. It was remarkable in its clarity of flavor and simple satisfaction, a sustained and deeply comforting note of unadulterated chickenness. A few more bites…

4 min.
steeped in spring

When the email came from my dealer, I moved fast. “The first tea of the year is on its way,” the message read. It was an implicit warning that we hopeless tea addicts know so well: Get this early taste of spring before it’s gone. As the weather turns warmer from March through May, tea bushes awaken from their winter slumber and shoot up new buds, yielding thick, luscious brews with powerful flavors—jolts of freshness that chase away the creaky ghosts of the cold. For tea obsessives, the spring months are a time of anticipation and, once we get our hands on the new stuff, delight. I immediately placed an order, and when my shipment of shincha arrived from Japan, I wasted no time. Opening the canister, I stuck my nose in…

5 min.
pesto season

When spring bursts forth, the swelling buds and brightly colored wildflowers call me into the forest near my home in rural Tennessee. There, with a basket slung on my arm, I’ll gaze and graze upon some of the first edible ephemerals. Every part of toothwort, with its early greens and delicate white flowers, exudes a delicious, biting flavor reminiscent of horseradish. I’ll harvest some, then move on to the mottled green leaves of the trout lilies—juicy, sweet, with a pleasant sharp accent—and stop at the stream to add some hearty handfuls of watercress to my basket. Perhaps my most exciting foraging find each spring is ramps, a wild cousin of garlic and onions with a rich, pungent flavor. The first way I enjoy them is just as I find them, on…

3 min.
the spice route

Gujarat, India, 1970: I’m five years old, and we are celebrating the spring harvest on my grandparents’ vegetable farm amid their rows of beans. Into my bowl I spoon heaps of vegetables from a steaming earthenware pot that has just been dug out of the ground after spending all night there, toasting under the embers of a fire until its contents are transformed into tender, mushy comfort. Everything in this celebratory undhiyu (which translates to “upside down,” because the pot is sealed and buried upside down) is smoke-flavored: my grandparents’ own beans, of course, some of which I picked myself the day before, but also potatoes and other vegetables from neighboring farmers that my grandparents got after bartering their beans in the informal trading economy that pops up every season.…

4 min.
a surplus of radishes

For the majority of our married life, my husband, Tadaaki, has grown our food. I have tried to help when I can with weeding or picking, jobs that I can jump in and out of. But being a successful farmer requires planning and forethought: buying the seeds, tilling the fields (he always reminds me that I should learn how to drive the tractor myself), then sowing the day it is due to rain. Growing radishes is far less complicated. All radishes grow like clockwork— 30 days and they’re ready. “Just tossed some radish seeds in the field…what are you up to in thirty days?” read one memorable invitation I sent out to friends a while back. We live in the Japanese countryside in Saitama, so most of our friends travel one or two…

8 min.
from estoril with love

I don’t order dry martinis anywhere except in Estoril. Usually, I like my gin wet. But sitting in a low antique chair at the wood-paneled Spy’s Bar in the Hotel Palácio, nothing but a dry gin martini will do. The echoing clatter of heels on marble drifts in from the hotel’s double-height lobby, and there’s never quite enough chatter to drown out the soft music. In daylight, the gleaming green and blue of the garden and pool blink through long windows into the dim bar, lined with elegantly worn satin upholstery, and smoky mirrors catch the light at night. When it rains, as it does in winter, you can stare out at the dappled pool with underwater lights changing colors for no one. Waiters in white jackets carry platters of hors…