Food & Wine

Saveur April/May 2017

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

1 min.
editor’s note

In “Tripe and Truffles” (pg. 32), our roving correspondent and fearless buongustaio (he who appreciates the pleasures of food) Adam Gollner rates the lowly lampredotto among the glittering highlights in the City of Lilies. Having eaten a few there myself, I’d have to agree. I’m not saying you should go to Florence only for the sandwiches. There’s gelato, too. “Do you see the world food first?” saveur cofounder Dorothy Kalins asked in her editor’s note in the first issue of this magazine 23 years ago. The answer, then as now, is: Yes, we do. Of course, it’s not only about the food. There’s wine, too. The point is there’s much to be said for getting out of town and seeking new flavors in unlikely places. That’s what motivated Michael Ruhlman to follow…

2 min.
big sky mongolia

To make khorkhog, first gather stones from a river. Now set the stones over a bed of coals. When they’re blazing hot, toss into a large cauldron and add the meat of one lamb, salt, potatoes, a little water, and some vodka. The animal, butchered and killed that day in honor of our arrival, had hung to dry from the rafters of one of the gers (yurts) belonging to the Bayraa family of Mongolian nomads. The master tent where we would sleep was a wonderland of oilcloths, Soviet garb, and bright cacophonous Asian fabrics. We’d set out from Ulaanbaatar, the capital city, with our driver and guide, Shatarbal Dugerjav, former diplomat to Bulgaria, and a single cassette tape of Mongolian folk music that sounded like horses whinnying and eagles screaming. At the…

3 min.
eating in the heel

In Lecce, a singular Italian city of whitewashed dwellings, Baroque architecture, and palm trees near the southern tip of Italy’s heel, most restaurants have served the region’s comfort food for centuries—peasant dishes like pezzetti di cavallo al sugo, a stew of slow-braised horse meat in sweet tomato sauce, and fava e cicorie, a homey dried fava mush served with wilted, garlicky chicory leaves. “People don’t like change in Lecce,” says 26-year-old Floriano Pellegrino, one half of the sibling chef team at Bros’, an ambitious modern Italian restaurant in a city that, until recently, had catered mostly to tourists visiting the surround- ing beaches. “They want comfort food, lots of food, and food that’s cheap.” Floriano and 22-year-old Giovanni trained separately in farflung fine-dining destinations like Noma in Copenhagen, Lasarte-Oria and Mugaritz…

4 min.
drinking wine in tokyo

This past November, in Tokyo, I stood pressed against a bar with five grown men, in a barely lit space the size of a walk-in closet. When someone moved, the rest of us shifted like a single organism. Winestand Waltz, a “standing bar” in Ebisu, was a testament to the Japanese penchant for making the most of small spaces. It was hidden so expertly from passersby that my taxi driver had to interview a cook at the adjacent café before he found it. After my eyes adjusted to the dark, I noticed the Jacques Tati posters, Le Creuset casseroles, and slim volumes of Symbolist poetry. Yasuhiro Ooyama, the bearded proprietor who’s known as the “wine professor,” poured me a cloudy pink brew that smelled like watermelon candy and wet poodle fur.…

3 min.
mind her elders

“I love my mom with an almost scary fierceness,” writes Amy Thielen in her funny, straight-shooting memoir Give a Girl a Knife (Clarkson Potter, May 2017). In it, the James Beard Award winner, cookbook author, and saveur contributor traces her path from small-town Minnesota to the cutthroat lines of Manhattan’s finest restaurants—where she worked under Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and David Bouley—and back again. Throughout, she recalls lessons from Karen, her no-nonsense Midwestern mother, who helped guide her along the way. Here, three kernels of inherited wisdom from the book that every cook should know. 1HOW TO CLEAN A COUNTERTOP When I was 9 years old, my mom taught me how to wipe the countertop in the following very specific way: You soak the washcloth in steaming-hot water, wring it out hard…

11 min.
masa appeal

As you crank the creaky handle of a molino de mano, the hand-operated grinder seen on the left, a flurry of ground corn cascades out the front and a gust of air rushes by. It’s half the satisfaction of making your own masa, an essential building block in much of Mexico’s cuisine. The other half? Consuming it. While you can buy instant masa mix at most supermarkets, fresh masa has an unparalleled sweetness and richness, as if you’d melted a pat of butter onto summer corn and transformed it into a dough that could be griddled, fried, or steamed. I learned how to make it from Gonzalo Guzmán, my coauthor of the Mexican-focused Nopalito cookbook, out this April. Guzmán grew up on fresh masa in Mexico and now uses 300 pounds…