Food & Wine

Saveur August - September 2015

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
summer entertaining

@SAVEURMAG Want to throw a great dinner party? Check out saveur.com/entertaining for tips, stories, recipes, and menu plans. We can’t get enough of Hawaii —its food or its landscape (page 24). Visit saveur.com/big-island for a bonus recipe and photos. After perfecting your onigiri technique on page 17, head to saveur.com/onigiri for a guide to Tokyo’s rice balls and scenes from the city. Read about the fresh bounty of Martha’s Vineyard (page 54), and go to saveur.com/marthasvineyard to plan your trip. THE RECIPES Appetizers & Sides Caramelized Onion and Sunchoke Dip 14 Grilled Corn and Ricotta Dip 14 Summer Tomato and Herb Dip 14 Onigiri 17 Herbed Squash Confit 20 Orange-Marinated Gravlax 36 Smoky Baba Ghannouj with Oil-Cured Black Olives 45 Turnip Salad with Green Grape Vinaigrette 47 Grilled Greens and Leek Tops with Chile-Garlic Sauce 48 Marinated Tomatoes with Mint 61 Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Chile and Thyme 62 Shaved Fennel and Grilled Corn Salad…

3 min.
punch: a philosophy for entertaining

It sounds counterintuitive, but the laws of hospitality, properly interpreted, dictate that when it comes to serving boozy drinks at home, it’s better to offer your guests almost no choice at all. Hospitality is all about ensuring comfort, and there’s nothing more discomforting than promising a guest a choice that you cannot satisfy. Lay out a spread of good booze, mixers, and ice, and suddenly everyone is on the spot. This isn’t my brand. How much tonic do I put in? Do I use my fingers on the ice? So on and so forth. Pen yourself up behind the bar with all the liquor in the house and try to bang out drinks for everyone —an Aviation here, an old-fashioned there—and as if by miracle your pleasant guests will eventually,…

2 min.
the no-measuring three-ingredient cocktail plan

1 MAKE A THREEBOTTLE COCKTAIL You won’t find a simpler drink in the world than pouring three bottles into a bowl for a large-batch Negroni Sbagliato —a combination of Campari, sweet vermouth, and prosecco (which takes the place of the traditional gin). Jeffrey Morgenthaler, bar manager of Clyde Common in Portland, is known for barrel-aging cocktails and other fancy bartender tricks. But when he throws a party, he makes this easy, lightly bitter drink. Here’s how: Chill one bottle each of Campari, Cinzano sweet vermouth, and good, inexpensive prosecco. Dump all three in a serving bowl with a hefty block of ice and serve with big ice cubes . 2 SQUEEZE CITRUS THE NIGHT BEFORE If you decide to go the sour-mixed-drinks route, the conventional wisdom on citrus juice is that it goes…

1 min.
drinking rituals from all over...

The Vietnamese phrase that follows each toast is tram phan tram, which means “100 percent.” After standing up and consuming 100 percent of their drinks, revelers shake hands as a sign of camaraderie. Drunk both ceremoniously and casually, kumis (traditionally made of fermented mare’s milk) is the country’s national drink. It’s customary to pour whatever is not finished back into the communal jug, so that nothing is wasted. At feasts in this former Soviet republic, a tamada, the official toast master, leads a series of 20 or more toasts . For each round, the tamada gives a rousing speech before anyone can drink. Miners commonly drink sugarcanebased cocoroco, which is more than 90 percent alcohol. They also leave it in the tunnels for El Tio, the lord of the underground, in exchange for…

2 min.
flip the dip

Cocktail party standards for good reason, dips are easy to make and easy to love. This summer, the ones we’ll be snacking on and serving come courtesy of Sara Hauman, chef of new American restaurant Huxley in San Francisco. She updates the beloved French onion dip by caramelizing the onions and mixing in nutty sautéed sunchokes. Her seasonal answer to a hot cheese dip features grilled corn and ricotta baked until bubbling and brown. And for a sweet counterpoint, she cooks down tomatoes with honey and spices. Caramelized Onion and Sunchoke Dip Makes 4 cups Active: 1 hr. 25 min.; Total: 5 hr. 30 min. 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 lb. sunchokes, scrubbed clean, peeled, and roughly chopped 3 large sweet onions, roughly chopped Kosher salt 8 oz. cream cheese, softened 1 cup sour cream…

4 min.
an obsessive’s ode to onigiri

SNACK PACK As a portrait and travel photographer, I’ve visited and lived in many countries, but Japan is an exceptional place to me. So exceptional, in fact, that I made Tokyo my home earlier this year. In daily life, there is a near reverence for detail and quality that I have not seen elsewhere. This is apparent in almost everything, but for me it’s most poetically expressed in the simple rice ball snacks called onigiri. I love their versatility, their minimalism, and the fact that even in the humblest of places, onigiri are made with attention and care. Onigiri are portable parcels that fit in the palm of your hand (nigiri means “to squeeze”). They are sold in tiny rice shops, izakayas, department-store food halls, and convenience stores, like 7-Eleven. They look…