Food & Wine

Saveur December 2013

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
breaking bread

Of all the places i've traveled, only twice have my parents urged caution. The first was when, at 19, I announced I was hitchhiking across Europe alone. My father bought my train ticket. The second was after my announcement that I'd be going to Palestine's West Bank to shoot a story for saveur. Their worry came as no surprise. From a distance, most Westerners see only news stories about Israeli-Palestinian conflict that report stone throwing, bulldozers, and suicide bombings. I've learned through years of international travel that the view from outside a country often contrasts sharply with everyday realities. Even so, I wasn't sure what to expect as I embarked on my first trip to the Middle East. As it turned out, the West Bank was one of the most…

3 min.
food for thought

When, at the age of 11, I was packed off from my London home to boarding school, I was apprehensive about a lot of things: being away from home, making new friends, and—given my prodigious appetite—eating. Boarding school food, after all, had a reputation for being bland and stodgy, something akin to the inedible slop served to children in Victorian novels. Yet as soon as I arrived at Wycombe Abbey, a school founded in 1896 in Buckinghamshire, England, I realized my fears had been unfounded. Break-fasts consisted of fluffy scrambled eggs and crispy bacon, accompanied by baked beans. Dinners were battered cod and tartar sauce, followed by a sherry trifle for dessert. But the best meals came in the middle of the day, when, at the sound of a bell,…

1 min.
a nog like no other

I'm crazy about eggnog, that decadent combination of milk, cream, sugar, and eggs. Come Christmastime, you'll find me in the kitchen making like a mad scientist as I mix nogs with creamy coconut and rum for a Puerto Rican coquito; blend Mexican rompope from eggs, milk, cinnamon, and brandy; or spike the bowl with orange liqueur and fresh vanillabean. This year chef Mary Sue Milliken of the Border Grill restaurants in Los Angeles and Las Vegas showed me how to concoct her family's favorite, an eggnog to trump all others. It's a five-step recipe (below) that starts with zabaglione—a silken Italian custard made by whisking egg yolks, sugar, and booze in a bowl over simmering water. To this puddinglike base, she adds whipped cream and egg whites, allspice, and anise.…

1 min.
one good bottle

During Prohibition in Washington, D.C., a well-known bootlegger named George Cassiday supplied Capitol Hill's lawmakers while wearing a green felt hat. Last year, when New Columbia Distillers became the District's first legal distillery in more than a century, it paid homage with Green Hat Gin ($36). Former Washington lawyer Michael Lowe and his son-in-law John Uselton, experimented endlessly with botanicals like cassia, myrtle flower, and fennel seed to create Green Hat's one-of-a-kind flavor. The nose is a sophisticated mix of citrus and coriander that's offset by an herbal palate provided by celery seed and sage—flavors that make for a particularly elegant martini. A little bit of heat accompanies a finish that's far cleaner than politics.…

3 min.
pleasure principle

The screen explodes with dazzling images of African-American men and women high-stepping to the sounds of a smokin' brass band, then cuts to a young man on the sidelines of the parade cooking ribs. The fire and smoke, the juice and sheen of the meat are palpable. You can almost smell and taste that food. This is Always for Pleasure (1978), a movie by the Berkeley, California, filmmaker Les Blank, and watching it, you feel transported to the streets of New Orleans. For more than 40 years, Blank, who passed away this year in April at the age of 77, was a vital force in American cinema, turning out dozens of documentaries. Many of them centered on the joys of eating and cooking, with subjects ranging from Creole cookery (Yum, Yum,…

3 min.
1 reveillon dinners

December 2013 New Orleans Some of the earliest New Orleanians. Catholic Creoles, celebrated Christmas Eve with a Réveillon (“awakening”) feast, common throughout the Francophone world. Following midnight mass, families would break a daylong fast with a lavish meal at home, featuring gumbos and turtle soups. These days few in the Crescent City celebrate Reveillon at home, but many restaurants, including Tujague's (established in 1856) and Brennan's. Have brought back the tradition, offering Reveillon dinners featuring traditional dishes like alligator bisque and shrimp rémoulade, throughout December. Info: 504/522-5730 6–8 64th National Cherry Festival Young, Australia At the height of Australia's cherry harvest, Young, an agricultural town in one of Australia's largest cherry-growing regions, celebrates the local cultivar: the sweet, darkred Rons Seedling, developed by Australian horticulturalist S.A. Thornell in 1928. Revelers can try their luck at…