Food & Wine

Saveur December 2016 - January 2017

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
sundays we make blueberry pancakes.

Standing on chairs, the kids are tall enough now to peer into the wide castiron pan and watch as the batter hits the bubbling butter. William, 5, helps measure the flour—and helps himself to whatever bits of raw batter and blueberries he can scoop, lick, or steal. Julia, 3, tenderly arranges the berries on the face of the pancakes as they rise, placing them according to a pattern of her own devising, sometimes hitting her mark, sometimes the floor. The pancakes are pretty O.K. We love them beyond reason. Family food traditions are like that: They don’t have to be special to feel special. I’d like to report that there are other sacrosanct routines we adhere to at our house—but the truth is there aren’t. Not yet anyway. We love to cook…

2 min.
colombian fizz

In Cartagena’s Old City, heat presses into alleyways and sunlight streams over cobblestones. People move languidly and salty ocean breezes slip past handsome colonial buildings. Ducking the high-noon humidity, city dwellers seek respite in cool bakeries. There is saying here that goes something like this: “All a man needs are pan y Kola Román.” Bread and Cartagena’s beloved, omnipresent soda. Despite its frivolous appearance—tapered glass, flashy logo, crayon-pink hue—Kola Román is deeply embedded in the rituals and identity of Colombia’s Caribbean coast. “It’s become knitted into our society,” says Sergio A. Londoño Zurek, a descendant of the Kola Román founder and the keeper of his family’s archives. “This is an important part of our culture, and an important part of Cartagena.” In 1834, while on his way to Peru, Manuel Román was shipwrecked…

2 min.
the language of paella

So fundamental is the role of paella in Valencian life that an entire language has developed around it. To pagar una paella, literally “to pay a paella,” is to make a bet. When kids are acting up or being indecisive, parents might say: ¿Què farem, paelleta o arròs caldós? “What should we make, paella or soupy rice?” Most important of all is the word comboi, which Valencians use to describe the entire paella experience: the ritual that surrounds cooking and gathering to eat, drink, and be merry. To fully understand comboi, you need to be born into the culture, a luxury life never afforded me, so I did the next best thing: I befriended Salvador Serrano, a native Valencian, and begged him to take me home with him. I have lived in…

4 min.
hot dog wars

They call them steamed, but they’re really fried,” John Fox says of the Easton-style dog. Fox, a North Jersey postal worker, is the undisputed hot dog savant of our time. For years he’s appeared regularly in articles, in books, and on TV programs relating to the history and nuance of sausage grinds and tube-steak legends. The Easton dog—dressed with yellow mustard, raw onions, and a pickle spear, then wrapped in wax paper so the components steam and commingle together, a kind of frankfurter en papillote—is found mostly among Delaware River border towns around Phillipsburg, New Jersey, and Easton, Pennsylvania. New York City and Chicago may get all the attention, but Jersey is America’s true hot dog heartland. There are no fewer than six distinct regional styles of dog in the Garden…

4 min.
the unvanquishable tucker’s

Joe Tucker doesn’t want to talk about who started the fire in his restaurant last year because he’s already forgiven him. The guy’s gone now anyway, of to God knows where. “He had his problems,” Joe told me as I swiped a biscuit through a bowl full of grits. “I guess we all do.” Spoken like a true saint. But if you know this guy, even a little bit, it’s not too surprising. Joe and his wife, Carla, are the closest thing to saintsI’ve ever met. I’m Catholic so I go looking for saints. But my attendance at church is sparse these days, and it’s at Tucker’s where I feel the spirit in me. The restaurant has been feeding Cincinnati’s tired, poor, and huddled masses since Joe’s parents, the late E.G.…

6 min.
the baby pineapple express

American Airlines Cargo Building 79, John F. Kennedy International Airport, Jamaica, New York: 5 a.m. Mitch Spitz is waiting for his apricots. “A box of fruit is like a woman who goes out at night,” Spitz says. “She puts on her jewelry, her makeup, but in the morning you know what you’ve got.” A forklift deposits a pallet of fruit at his feet with a thud that echoes through the dreary, industrial space, the cavern hung with signs warning against elemental hazards: in bound dangerous goods…look out for forklifts…spill response kit. Spitz is on the lookout for subtler perils. “Some sellers, they pack the nice stuff on top,” he says. “The only way to tell if it’s good all the way through is to turn it over and check from the bottom.” He opens…