Food & Wine

Saveur March 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
editor’s note

A good meal can make your week. A great one can change how you think about food. In Tokyo a few years ago I lucked into the greatest of lunches in the most unassuming of places: a spare, tranquil, and tiny spot on a humdrum residential block of Shinjuku-ku. The restaurant, Shimahei, specialized in soba, buckwheat noodles. Yoshiaki Shimada, the proprietor and chef, is not young but fiercely agile. Loosely wrapped in a pajama-like robe half open to his chest and shuttling between steaming cauldron and pristine tangle of freshly cut noodles, he produced a soba kaiseki menu that was quietly dazzling. A cold soup of buckwheat “milk” was followed by soba-maki, or sushi rolls in which cut soba noodles replaced vinegared rice, wrapped in nori around sweet shrimp and a…

8 min.
the sprouted kitchen

Every lentil, every chickpea, even every sunflower seed, has a secret green salad hidden deep within it. Dried up and left for soaking, souping, or sprinkling, legumes and seeds can come back to life. With just a few days of moisture and warmth, they transform into sometimes-crunchy, sometimesdelicate, nutrient-packed sprouts. “Homegrown sprouts add a welcome brightness to everything,” says Jessica Koslow, chef-owner of Los Angeles’ Sqirl restaurant. Koslow has had lines out the door for her rice bowls and fresh salads ever since she opened the “bacon-serving but vegan-friendly” spot in 2012. “I always have buckets of soaking legumes around the restaurant, and I love waiting for the little sprout stems to poke out.” A sprout is simply a germinated seed, a little newborn plant at most a few inches long, a…

9 min.
the last casks of hanyu

My favorite whisky bar in the world is in my adopted Bangkok. A refined and secretive Japanese speakeasy among the girly bars of Soi 33, it’s called Hailiang. No sign marks its entrance. Snifters are topped with glass lids. The owner, Jay, an exile from Osaka, carves the ice into perfect spheres. I come here when I want to be alone with an obscure Japanese malt far from the madness of Bangkok streets. One night some months ago Jay and I were talking about the ascendant popularity of our drink of choice: a bottling from Nikka called Taketsuru Pure Malt 17 Years Old (named for the “Father of Japanese whisky,” Masataka Taketsuru, who founded Nikka in the 1930s), which took the best blended malt category at the 2015 World Whiskies Awards.…

5 min.
a case for teatime

Is there anything better at around four in the afternoon than a warm little scone with a bit of cold clotted cream and a dot of jam? No, there isn’t. As an American baker working in London, I fell in love with the teatime ritual the day I landed here. After the fog of jet lag, I threw myself into studying the world of British pastries. I was familiar with scones from America, the big triangular doorstop-sized kind my mom used to make in California, shot through with chocolate chips or dried fruit or even wisps of cheese—more cake-like than biscuit-like, really—but what I found in Britain was something altogether different, altogether more refined and intriguing: smaller rounds, not too rich, not too sweet, with a smattering of raisins perhaps…

7 min.
nicaragua’s wilder shores

It’s not easy getting to Little Corn Island. The challenge is part of the charm. At least that’s what my girlfriend, Danielle, and I tell ourselves as we step onto the ferry, neither of us quite noticing that it isn’t really a ferry, but a working ship transporting thousands of gallons of gasoline. As the boat chugs into stomach-turning swells, diesel fumes fill the cramped passenger hold. Seeking fresh air outside, I watch three men trolling for fish off the back of the boat, each clutching salt-crusted handlines. On a bench between greasy fuel drums, a gray-haired German man in wire-rim glasses has wedged himself into a child-sized life vest and stares grimly at the heaving horizon. One errant spark, his fierce look says to me, and we all go down…

6 min.
the entertainer

L ee Bailey was the original food-and-lifestyle guru. Writing and photographing in a pre–Martha Stewart world, he was a pioneer in suggesting that a meal’s setting was just as important as the food, that the way you layered sliced tomatoes on a plate mattered, and that a bandana might be used to cradle bread, fruit, and cheese on the way to a picnic, then do double duty as a place mat. He was, as The New York Times summed it up in his 2003 obituary, “an expert in the stylish life.” I write cookbooks for a living, and no one has influenced or inspired me more than Lee—even though, it pains me to say, it’s likely you’ve never heard of him. While his legacy isn’t quite as imprinted on the culture…