Food & Wine

Saveur November 2015

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
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6 Issues

in this issue

3 min.
relish the cranberry

It was my ritual to scope out the sideboard at my grandparents’ Thanksgiving as soon as I walked into their Massachusetts home. The whole spread was set out: a bronzed, crackling turkey flanked by mashed potatoes, ambrosia salad, creamed onions, giblet gravy, and a couple types of stuffing—one chockful of littleneck clams and another with cornbread. My mom would make her famous green beans with slivered almonds. And there was always my grandmother’s cranberry relish, fragrant with orange zest and Grand Marnier. I’m a staunch New England cranberry relish guy. That’s cranberry relish, not cranberry sauce. Not the gelatinized blob that is still in the shape of the can when you dump it out. Not even the homemade sauce that’s too sweet to resemble actual cranberries and too slippery to stick…

9 min.
on the chowder trail

If he wants to talk to you about chowder, he’ll get in touch,” said the bartender who answered the phone at Cliff’s Elbow Room. Then she hung up. Three unreturned messages later, I came to terms with the fact that Cliff didn’t want to talk. Cliff’s cedar-shingled dive is something of a North Fork, Long Island, landmark known for its shell steaks, which are marinated and broiled to a degree of black char that lies beyond the redemptive power of any Instagram filter. I had eaten two bowls of Cliff’s transcendent, Manhattan-style clam chowder—as in red with tomatoes, not cloudy with cream—the stuff that’s long been denigrated by New Englanders as worked-up vegetable soup from the borough that bears its name. Cliff’s version has been served in round, heavy bowls on…

7 min.
a tale of two biscuits

Ruth Reichl’s Cream Biscuits Makes 20 biscuits Active: 20 min.; Total: 1 hr. 45 min. If you can’t find “00” Italian pasta flour (available on amazon.com or in Italian specialty stores), substitute cake flour. Its low gluten content lets you mix it with the cream without developing the gluten. 2 cups (10 oz.) “00” pasta flour, plus more 1 Tbsp. baking powder ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 ¼ cups heavy cream, chilled, plus more for brushing 1 In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder and salt. Pour the cream into the flour and stir until a dough forms. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and briefly knead until smooth. 2 Using a rolling pin, flatten the dough until ⅝ inch thick. Using a 2 ¼-inch round cutter, cut out circles of dough, rerolling…

5 min.
the puzzling pendennis club cocktail

A long while back I had two regulars in my bar who enjoyed tasking me with interpreting classic cocktails. One night, these fellows ordered their all-time favorite, the Pendennis Club Cocktail. I blushed over my inability to conjure it: I had heard of it but had never encountered one nor seen a recipe. They walked me through it—gin, apricot brandy, lime juice, and Peychaud’s, the revered, anise-inflected New Orleans bitters. Taking a sip, I experienced one of those zoomfreeze moments. Intriguingly opaque, slightly frothy, and salmon-hued, the Pendennis Club Cocktail has a mesmerizing balance of flavors: sweet, tart, and packed with spice and strength all at the same time. It has remained one of my favorite drinks for some two decades, during which time I have tinkered with its parts…

4 min.
a table in havana

The only salt sold in Cuba is the iodized kind, packaged in plastic bags and parked on low grocery shelves. So when Niuris Higueras travels outside the country, she returns with suitcases stuffed with flaky sea salt. “Twenty kilos of sea salt, yes,” Higueras says, ticking off a list. “Sesame seeds, separated into black and white, because you only get a sort of mixed sesame here. Curry spices—not in their individual plastic containers, but in larger bags to save weight. Hand towels for the bathrooms...” We’re in the main dining room of her popular Havana restaurant, Atelier—a long, high-ceilinged, church-like space on the second floor of a Spanish colonial home, shot through with light and wind from the high open windows. The aesthetic is graceful grandma chic, all heavy, curved wood furniture,…

1 min.
top paladares worth visiting in havana

Atelier Niuris Higueras and her brother Herdys opened this restaurant in a mansion five years ago and serve a constantly changing Cuban-Continental menu to a packed house every night. Eat outside on the roof if you can. Calle 5, #511, between Paseo and Calle 2, Vedado Corte del Principe When you arrive, ask owner Sergio which of that day’s homemade pastas he recommends (his are the best in all of Havana) and then add some beef carpaccio or simply cooked fresh local fish to round out your meal. Calle 9na at the corner of 74, Playa El Cocinero The people-watching can’t be beat on this late-night rooftop tapas bar reached via three flights of spiral stairs. The menu includes everything from tuna tataki to grilled pork ribs. Calle 26 between 11 and 13, Vedado Ivan Chef…