Cook's Illustrated March/April 2020

At Cook's Illustrated, our test cooks are dedicated to testing and retesting recipes 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will come out right the first time -- and every time -- you make it. And each issue of Cook's Illustrated is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page. As we like to say at Cook's Illustrated, "We make the mistakes so you don't have to."

United States
Boston Common Press, LP
66,42 kr(Inkl. moms)
191,04 kr(Inkl. moms)
6 Nummer

i detta nummer

2 min
going green

The phone on my desk beeped and lit up, and after a brief pause, the page came through: “I have spring pea salad in the general kitchen.” Associate Editor Annie Petito’s voice echoed through the office. She was developing a salad centered on the snap, snow, and English varieties that show up early in the season and are briefly but gloriously tender and sweet enough to be eaten raw. Spring on a platter was the goal, albeit a lofty one. I got up from my desk and headed to the kitchen. Entering the buzzy space, I walked past wide stainless-steel prep tables, rows of six-burner stovetops, dozens of wall ovens, busy test cooks, and experiments in progress. There were green beans charring in a skillet, pans of fudgy brownies cooling on…

3 min
quick tips

Reuse Pepper Mill to Grind Spices Anthony Rotolo of New York, N.Y., recycles peppercorn grinders with removable tops by using them to store and grind whole spices. After washing an empty grinder, he fills it with spices such as fennel seeds, coriander seeds, or cumin seeds. Measure Dough Thickness with Stacked Coins Connor Simpson of Madison, Wis., finds that most rulers have a gap between the bottom of the ruler and where the measurements begin that makes it tricky to measure dough. Instead, he washes a few coins and then stacks them beside rolled-out cookie or pastry dough to gauge thickness. Two stacked pennies are about ⅛ inch tall, and three nickels are about ¼ inch tall. Portable Ingredient Station Jeremy Doty of Phoenix, Ariz., stores frequently used ingredients—oil, salt, pepper, etc.—in an 8-inch square…

7 min
the easiest, cleanest way to sear steak

Searing steak on the grill is a pleasure. Outdoors, the smoke serves as ambiance and enticement to my guests, and the grill acts as a giant drip pan, requiring little cleanup beyond a quick postmeal scrub with a stiff brush. But stovetop searing inevitably causes smoke to billow and grease to splatter, so I rarely make a go of it. When I do, I use the reverse-sear method to cook the meat most of the way through in a low oven before pan searing so that the stovetop cooking can be brief. Still, that approach takes the better part of an hour and doesn’t entirely avoid the smoke and splatter. What I really wanted was the outcome of reverse searing, the speed of stovetop searing, and no mess. I wanted a fast,…

8 min
chicken schnitzel

Loosely defined, schnitzel is a piece of meat that’s been pounded thin, breaded, and fried—but frankly, that undersells it. This Austrian classic is more delicate than thicker, crunchier Japanese tonkatsu and more distinct than workaday Italian breaded cutlets such as Milanese and scaloppine. There’s an elegance to its svelte profile, and even more so to its unique crust: The crumb is particularly fine and closely packed, and instead of hugging the meat the way most breadings do, it puffs away from the cutlet as it fries, forming an airy, wrinkly shell that’s not at all greasy. Serving it with a squeeze of lemon and a bright-tasting salad accentuates its lightness. Done well, it manages to be both casual comfort food and dinner party fare. Austrians typically prepare schnitzel with veal or…

8 min
homemade mayo that keeps

If you’ve eaten homemade mayonnaise, you know that its custardy richness and delicate tang are clean and clear in a way the commercial stuff just isn’t. It lights up anything it touches—from egg or potato salad to lobster rolls to boiled artichokes to green goddess dressing—and is the only condiment worth slathering onto a BLT or high-summer tomato sandwich. It’s the preparation President Calvin Coolidge waxed nostalgic about (his Aunt Mary’s, specifically) to the Spokesman-Review and one that fascinated—and often stymied—Julia Child. British food writer Elizabeth David urged her readers to make “plenty of it” when hosting guests, since “this beautiful golden ointment-like sauce is really the pivot and raison d’être of the whole affair.” Homemade mayo lights up anything it touches—from egg or potato salad to a BLT. There are practical…

4 min
why you should butter-baste fish

Want to know a secret? Even as a professional cook, I used to get a little nervous when it came time to sauté fish. Fish is expensive, and it can go from juicy to dry in a blink. And when you’re dealing with flaky types such as cod, there is a good chance that the fragile fillets will fall apart when flipped. These days, however, I cook cod and similar fish with ease, and the results are outstanding. That’s because I butter-baste—a technique that involves repeatedly spooning sizzling butter over food as it cooks. I’ll explain the mechanics in a bit, but first, a rundown on why it’s so effective. Bathing fish in hot butter has multiple benefits. It encourages Maillard reactions that add complexity and help develop a golden crust. Maillard…