Decanter March 2020

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
77,85 kr(Inkl. moms)
441,84 kr(Inkl. moms)
12 Nummer

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5 min
month in wine

Buy Aussie wines to help bushfire relief Vineyards have suffered ‘devastating damage’ from deadly bushfires, as have wider communities, said government body Wine Australia. However, it warned that a complete picture will take time to assemble. Understandably, Australia’s wine industry has not been the major focus amid fires that have killed at least 28 people, destroyed homes and caused mass evacuations. More than 10 million hectares of land burned between September 2019 and January 2020, with New South Wales and Victoria hit hardest. Until full damage assessments can take place, Wine Australia has sought to provide context on the situation for vineyard owners and their customers. ‘We are confident that, as of 6 January 2020, less than 1% of Australian vineyards were potentially impacted,’ a spokesperson for the organisation told Decanter. Adelaide Hills was one…

1 min
in brief

Rivetto has become the first winery in Barolo and Barbaresco to be certified biodynamic by Demeter. The estate, located in the Barolo cru of Briccolina, underwent a 10-year transformation to meet Demeter’s biodynamic standards. Fourth-generation winemaker Enrico Rivetto sacrificed 1.2ha of vines in order to create a biodiverse estate, introducing other crops, 550 trees and donkeys. A device that claims to pour the ‘perfect’ glass of wine has won an innovation award at the CES 2020 tech show in Las Vegas. The Albicchiere, or ‘Albi’, can be loaded with a wine bottle or a ‘smart bag’, which is said to keep wine fresh for six months. Early investors were offered the device for £190. The first Underwater Wine Congress was held in Bilbao last December. Fifty experts, including oenologists and…

2 min
your letters

Paper plea If 2019 will be remembered for the focus on climate change and ocean plastic, it looks like 2020 might go down as the year we start doing something about it. As a long-standing subscriber, I am aware of the focus Decanter has placed on this subject over many months and years. And now my January edition has landed on my doorstep sans plastic wrapping; we now have a paper envelope. A huge congratulations and well done! But please, for the sake of the rainforests, can we stop all the loose leaf inserts as well? David Montgomery, Surrey Wine and health As someone with health issues which are, I suspect, not totally unrelated to agricultural chemicals, including a tumour associated with a common constituent of herbicides, I now buy organic/biodynamic wines wherever possible. So…

1 min
the cost of sustainability

Being a young head sommelier, I consider myself lucky enough to play an active role in the wine trade, and with it, a certain responsibility in regard to matters such as climate change and sustainability. My aim is to create a 100% organic list, although it is difficult to terminate longstanding partnerships with large wineries. Sadly, these big groups can move product far more cheaply than smaller estates. I think every Decanter reader would agree that wine should be an expression of its place of origin, and that ‘single vineyard’ shouldn’t always be a synonym for ‘paying a fortune’. I’m thinking about regions such as Friuli, where myriad producers bottle single-vineyard wines at reasonable prices without even trumpeting it on the label. I want to reward small growers who produce authentic,…

3 min
andrew jefford

Aremarkable photograph: a soil pit dug into a vineyard, perhaps 1.5 metres deep, with about 70cm of rich, mixed topsoil, uncompacted but lively with organic matter. Then – clay. Solid clay. The pit had obviously been open for a while, and the vines above were in summer garb – hence the cracks in the clay, ‘big enough,’ said the photographer, ‘to put your hand in.’ No ordinary photographer, moreover: this was Jacques Fanet, former assistant director of both the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) and the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), as well as author of Great Wine Terroirs, a useful geological adjunct to the understanding of wine globally. ‘If there weren’t vines there,’ Fanet added, ‘no viticultural consultant in France would ever recommend planting these soils as…

1 min
what i’ve been drinking this month

Gold but not deep gold, with an enticing scent of nuts, hay bales, mushroom and soft cream. It was still vivid, with plenty of acidity, yet the acidity was soft, mouthfilling, almost creamy in its own right: delicious. Aged Chablis? If you’d told me that, I’d have believed you, but the wine was in fact Guilbaud Frères, Le Clos du Pont, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, Loire 2012, aged in foudres. This met my test of ageworthiness: not only delicious, but clearly different from youthful versions. Bravo.…