Decanter August 2020

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
77,85 kr(Inkl. moms)
441,84 kr(Inkl. moms)
12 Nummer

i detta nummer

5 min
month in wine

Bordeaux 2019: prices reflect global events This year’s Bordeaux en primeur campaign launched into an uncertain market with a wave of discounts for what was ‘unhesistatingly a successful vintage’, according to Jane Anson. Pauillac fifth growth Château Pontet-Canet fired the starting gun on 28 May with its release at £61 a bottle, a 31% drop versus the previous year. Liv-ex reported it to be one of the lowest priced vintages of Pontet-Canet on the market and the lowest ex-Bordeaux release price since 2008. Rather than a statement on vintage quality, en primeur discounts appeared to be recognition of the uncertain economic climate, coloured by 25% US tariffs and the widespread impact of the Covid-19 crisis. ‘Our 2019 is definitely one of our best vintages,’ Pontet-Canet co-owner Justine Tesseron told Decanter, adding that they released…

1 min
in brief

A Cognac pre-dating the French Revolution – one of the world’s oldest-surviving bottles – has been sold by Sotheby’s via online auction for US$144,525. Sotheby’s said that the 70cl bottle of 1762 Gautier Cognac was ‘the oldest Cognac vintage ever sold at auction’, adding that the winning bid, from a collector in Asia, had set ‘a new auction record for a bottle of Cognac’. Bordeaux wine expert Jane Anson has released a comprehensive guide to the region, titled Inside Bordeaux. The guide, published by UK merchant Berry Bros & Rudd and priced at £60, aims to offer fresh insights into ‘the châteaux, their wines and the terroir’. It includes 65 new maps and 20 appellation overviews, as well as more than 800 estates indexed using Anson’s own ranking system. Australian…

3 min
your letters

Memories of Pomerol The sad passing of Denis Durantou reminded me of a visit to L’Eglise Clinet in the summer of 2007. My wife and I were touring Bordeaux with friends and our last visit of a hot summer’s day was to L’Eglise Clinet in Pomerol. Upon our arrival, a man (who it transpired was Denis Durantou) rushed out to meet us looking a little stressed and asked if we would mind waiting 20 minutes as he had some important guests. One minute later, he ushered us in saying his guests were very happy for us to join. So began one of the most memorable tastings I have ever had. The guests were buyers from Justerini & Brooks and we had the opportunity to taste a flight of L’Eglise Clinet, including…

1 min
adapt to survive

The rapid spread of Covid-19 has obviously had a devastating impact on the global economy, with the hospitality industry being particularly affected. The world of wine has been criticised in the past for not moving with the times and embracing change. However, in the last few months I have been really impressed with the nimbleness and innovation, the forward thinking and the use of technology that wine companies are using to stay afloat during this pandemic (examples being virtual tastings, new e-commerce delivery options and partnerships with media channels). Well done for thinking outside the box, and keep up the great work.…

3 min
andrew jefford

Are you a wine hedonist? Hedonism is ‘the pursuit of pleasure’; philosophically, it refers to the notion that pleasure is the highest good. We all drink wine for the pleasure it procures us, don’t we? So for the wine drinker, the best wines must be those that procure the most pleasure. That, surely, makes us all wine hedonists – though we may live according to different philosophical tenets in other areas of our life. Such has been the professional credo of this year’s Hall of Fame laureate, critic Robert Parker (see p18). His notes bubble and cascade with lovingly evoked sensual delight. He has little patience with wines that do not offer palpable sensual pleasure – and even less with what he calls the ‘Pleasure Police’: health zealots, moral puritans or…

1 min
what i’ve been drinking this month

The wine that brought me the most pleasure over the last month of lockdown (and believe me, that was precious) was the Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Brunello di Montalcino 2014 (£36.67 Millésima). As ever with Brunello, this was the pleasure of the semi-mature wine: the plums and berries now in retreat in a mist of truffle, warm forest, frankincense and animal comfort, and flavours in which a warm, resonant acidity meshes seamlessly with time-ripened tannins and the glow of those remembered fruits. Great vineyards – but great cellar work, too.…