Decanter September 2020

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
77,85 kr(Inkl. moms)
441,84 kr(Inkl. moms)
12 Nummer

i detta nummer

6 min
month in wine

Favourites emerge in Bordeaux 2019 sales Price cuts and good ratings sparked strong buyer interest in several Bordeaux 2019 en primeur wines, beating low expectations for the campaign in some quarters. Bordeaux 2019 en primeur arrived amid Covid-19-related disruption to the tasting schedule and fears of a global recession, and against a general backdrop of young Bordeaux wines struggling for price momentum. The usual early-April tastings had to be cancelled, though some smaller-scale tastings were later organised in Paris and other cities in France. But, with price cuts averaging 21% compared with the 2018 releases, this year’s campaign brought back ‘some of the magic of the past’, said a Liv-ex report. It added that the top 20 UK merchants reported sales revenue down by 10% on average versus last year, but volume sales…

1 min
bordeaux’s value gems

I was interested to read the letter from Dave Cronin in your August issue. I agree that Andy Howard’s ‘Bordeaux Reds Under £20’ feature was very helpful (see also ‘Notes & Queries’, p88). Both he and your other excellent contributing editor, Jane Anson, emphasise that more modestly priced Bordeaux red wines have never been better. In my experience, there are superb wines to be found from the Côtes de Bordeaux (Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs) along with the Bourg, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac areas. I think the key to Dave Cronin’s disappointment lies in his reference to focusing on wines from high-street retailers. You can search out brilliant wines from family-owned estates from UK merchants such as The Wine Society and Tanners, where their buyers develop good long-term relationships with the producers. Excellent…

6 min
your letters

Buying local I share Dave Cronin’s frustration about the quality of the ‘more affordable’ Bordeaux wines found on the high street (August issue). I read his letter, however, having just finished what was to my mind a high-quality and good-value Bordeaux bought from a local wine merchant: Château Buisson-Redon 2016, priced at just £9.95. It’s from a 41ha estate, owned by the Sèze family since 1918, with parcels sited within AP Fronsac – which may explain its high quality for the price. As a fellow Hertfordshire resident, Mr Cronin will be pleased to know it’s available from Cellar Door Wines in St Albans, should he wish to try it. And while there he may wish to buy a bottle or two of St Albans’ own: Wimbushes Vineyard has planted the first vines…

3 min
andrew jefford

Three months of pandemic-induced lockdown are drawing to an end. It hasn’t been all frustration and anxiety. I’ve enjoyed being at home with the family – and the internet wine chat which has replaced the customary tastings, travel and research. Two interview questions, in particular, set me thinking. ‘What does it take,’ I was asked by US importer of Languedoc-Roussillon wines Carol Bailey-Medwell in an Instagram Live session, ‘to be a great winemaker?’ It begins, I suggested, with luck – the luck to be working with a distinguished site; no amount of skill can magic fine wine from mediocre grapes. But you need, too, to be a ‘site whisperer’ – to understand, through engaged intimacy, what sort of wine your vineyard would most like to produce, and to help it to…

2 min
hugh johnson

We saw a heartening touch of realism from the Government when, at the start of the Covid scare, it classed wine merchants as essential businesses. Not just for wine, but for alcoholic drinks in general. I’d like to think it passed in Cabinet on the nod. Prohibition? Ridiculous. It was no concession, but a timely acknowledgement that our world, the western world, duly prizes the gift of conviviality and all the human kindnesses and benefits that spring from it. The relaxation and inspiration wine, beer, spirits and the whole colourful catalogue of drinks contribute to our European culture is incalculable. Lockdown, as a result, was one degree less arduous than it could have been, deprived of a major comfort and consolation. If the wine trade did well out of it, where’s…

7 min
weekday wines

Bortolomiol, Grande Cuvée del Fondatore, Motus Vitae Brut Nature, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2017 93 £20.10 Tannico A Charmat period of 11 months adds subtle pastry notes to fresh apple and apple blossom aromas. Orchard fruit and citrus on a crisp, dry palate, along with brisk acidity. JS Alcohol 12% Delaire Graff, Reserve Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2018 91 £16.24 Armit From parcels of old bush vines, fermented and aged in 2,500L foudres and 400L barrels. Ripe yellow apples and rich honey aromas, then quince and nougat on the round, textured palate with refreshing acidity to balance through the creamy cashew finish. TG Alc 13.5% L’Aure, Sauvignon Blanc, Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest France 2018 91 £9.25 Corney & Barrow Lovely varietal typicity and purity with crunchy green apple flavours, wonderful freshness and delicate acidity. Made from…