Decanter September 2021

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
76,47 kr(Inkl. moms)
434,07 kr(Inkl. moms)
12 Nummer

i detta nummer

1 min
you’re all extremely nice

An issue or so ago, I asked for comments and suggestions on what you’d like to see in Decanter. I was, I must admit, a little nervous about what we’d receive. Streams of abuse? Demands for a column on lacrosse, beat poetry or the correct way to wear a cravat? Nothing at all? Thankfully, I was proved wrong on all counts. Your responses have been thoughtful and polite, and have reinforced my opinion that Decanter readers are exactly the sort of people who would be very pleasant company over a glass of something good. We had some very astute advice on French wines from a gentleman in Brazil, and a superb suggestion for a feature on aperitifs, which we will be commissioning before lunch. There were also fine ideas on…

1 min
meet the decanter experts

FIONA BECKETT is a Decanter contributing editor. Publishing at matchingfoodandwine. com, she is a leading expert on food and drink matching, wine columnist for The Guardian and author of 25 books on food, wine and beer CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine-wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine for Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and trained at Le Cordon Bleu Paris LAURA FOSTER is a widely published freelance journalist and writer with a particular focus on spirits and cocktails. She was formerly deputy editor of UK on-trade drinks title Imbibe and bar & drinks editor for Square Meal ELIZABETH GABAY MW is a specialist in rosé and the wines of Provence. She is author of Rosé, Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution (Infinite…

10 min

Ausone and Cheval Blanc opt out of St-Emilion classification Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc have caused a stir on Bordeaux’s Right Bank after it emerged they intended to withdraw from the official St-Emilion classification. The news comes ahead of the 2022 edition of the classification, which is revised every 10 years. Ausone and Cheval Blanc reconfirmed their top-tier, premier grand cru classé A rating in 2012, when they were joined by Châteaux Angélus and Pavie. Ausone said it had been considering its position for some time and a decision was made independently of Cheval Blanc. But both estates suggested that terroir and winemaking don’t feature strongly enough in the classification’s current judging criteria. The grading also takes producers’ market initiatives and tourism provisions into consideration. Cheval Blanc’s leadership team commented in a letter…

2 min
your letters

Carpe diem: open those bottles Several years ago I began renting a small space in a specialist wine storage facility in southwest London. I don’t have a big collection, but I enjoy buying bottles that will mature over time and most are now reaching their drinking windows. It’s mainly Italian reds, and Ports bought for anniversaries. I got the news recently that a fire had destroyed my collection. Thankfully nobody was hurt, and the wine was insured. But I was still fairly gutted. To start again would make me an old man by the time I could drink the wine. Thankfully it seems my locker was far enough away from the fire to escape damage. I feel for those who weren’t as lucky. The whole affair has taught me an important lesson. Wine…

2 min
has st-emilion hit the alcohol too hard?

I went straight to James Lawther’s article about St-Emilion in the June 2021 issue, my eagerness growing as I read ‘fruit, freshness and drinkability is the new mantra’ and ‘radical and wholesale change’. At last, I thought, St-Emilion has really moved with the times, producing a fresh, elegant vintage in 2018 in spite of the growing conditions. Too impatient to read the rest of the article, I skipped to the descriptions of the 10 wines. Then my heart sank as I noticed the notes and alcohol levels: Château Troplong Mondot, one of the supposed ‘radicals’, is ‘dense and profound’ with 15% alcohol; six other wines contain 14.5%. In fact, only one out of the 10 manages 13.5%, and it’s the lowest rated. How can a 14.5% – or worse, 15%…

3 min
andrew jefford

Appellations (and their various European equivalents) have a problem. Not existential: they’re a brilliant idea, since they help small producers go to market with a meaningful name. They’re also necessary: value in the wine world is principally based on origin, and appellations guarantee origin. The problem is the same as you have with your car or your house: appellations need maintenance to work well. And they’re not getting it. Many French appellations were created in the 1930s. It was a decade of execrable weather, economic depression and political foreboding: life couldn’t have been tougher for growers. Another flurry of appellations arrived in the 1950s: a happier time, but economically difficult. There were more in the 1980s, as former VDQS (Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure) wines won promotion to appellation status –…