Decanter December 2019

The art of wine Making barrels Tonelería Tevasa, Jerez, Spain Family-owned Tevasa cooperage has a long history of making barrels for Sherry producers, using Spanish red oaks sourced in Galicia, with a minimum age of 75 years. In the cooperage, two workers handle the charring of each barrel, heating the staves over coal fire pits to season and shape them. The cooperage uses traditional methods because the wood then imparts a much richer flavour to the liquid it holds. Photograph: Anna Gazeley, www.gazeley.photos…

Bordeaux optimistic after erratic 2019 The Bordeaux 2019 harvest has been excellent so far, but the rest of the conditions are terrible,’ said Florence Cathiard, of Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Léognan, conveying the region’s mood of cautious optimism after a year of contrasts. Winter was warmer than average, which meant an early budburst, followed by a cold spell from mid-April through May, before temperatures rose again in June. Summer saw several heatwaves, with temperatures reaching over 40°C in Mérignac, and drought conditions extended véraison (colour-change) until the end of August. Rainfall was 21% lower than the 30-year average and July heat led to cases of vines shutting down and slowing maturity, particularly in sandier soils. Conditions remained dry through to mid-September, after which point intermittent rainfall caused some disruption to harvest schedules and brought…

News Month in wine All the important issues affecting you across the globe, compiled by Laura Seal Bordeaux optimistic after erratic 2019 The Bordeaux 2019 harvest has been excellent so far, but the rest of the conditions are terrible,’ said Florence Cathiard, of Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Léognan, conveying the region’s mood of cautious optimism after a year of contrasts. Winter was warmer than average, which meant an early budburst, followed by a cold spell from mid-April through May, before temperatures rose again in June. Summer saw several heatwaves, with temperatures reaching over 40°C in Mérignac, and drought conditions extended véraison (colour-change) until the end of August. Rainfall was 21% lower than the 30-year average and July heat led to cases of vines shutting down and slowing maturity, particularly…

Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger has hailed the end of an era with the announcement that his daughter Vitalie will replace him as president of the Champagne house from 1 January 2020. As part of the generational handover, his son Clovis will take over the role of general manager from Damien le Sueur. ‘I can hand over the reins, secure in a sense of accomplishment,’ Pierre-Emmanuel said. ‘Exceptionally strong winds’, the aftermath of drought and a ‘serious shortage of manpower’ have led to Santorini’s smallest Assyrtiko crop since 1991. Producer Domaine Argyros said winds destroyed more than 20% of the potential harvest, while Santo Wines reported its 2019 crop was reduced by two-thirds. It will make ‘prices difficult to control’, said wine expert Yiannis Karakasis MW. Fashion house Chanel is to produce Provence…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger has hailed the end of an era with the announcement that his daughter Vitalie will replace him as president of the Champagne house from 1 January 2020. As part of the generational handover, his son Clovis will take over the role of general manager from Damien le Sueur. ‘I can hand over the reins, secure in a sense of accomplishment,’ Pierre-Emmanuel said. ■ ‘Exceptionally strong winds’, the aftermath of drought and a ‘serious shortage of manpower’ have led to Santorini’s smallest Assyrtiko crop since 1991. Producer Domaine Argyros said winds destroyed more than 20% of the potential harvest, while Santo Wines reported its 2019 crop was…

JEAN-BERNARD DELMAS 1935-2019 Charming, extraordinary and revolutionary are just some of the words that have been used to describe winemaker Jean-Bernard Delmas, who has died, aged 83. He spent more than 40 years, from 1961 to 2003, as manager and technical director of Château Haut-Brion, also overseeing the other wines of estate owner Domaine Clarence Dillon, including La Mission Haut-Brion. Jean-Bernard succeeded his father Georges at Château Haut-Brion and was subsequently succeeded by his own son, Jean-Philippe. After leaving Château Haut-Brion, Jean-Bernard went on to manage Château Montrose following the Bouygues brothers’ purchase of the estate in 2006. He retired in 2011. Jean-Bernard Delmas ‘was a mentor’ to many. ‘My family has never known Château Haut-Brion without the presence of this great man and extraordinary winemaker,’ said Prince Robert of Luxembourg, CEO and chairman of…