Decanter April 2021

As the new custodian of Decanter, I should introduce myself. I’m a journalist and editor of many years experience, and over my career I’ve launched, worked on and run a few things you might have heard of, from Fleet Street newspapers to big-selling magazines, global awards and respected websites. But I have never felt so simultaneously honoured and apprehensive as I do now. Decanter – now a rich website, a splendid magazine, and much more – is a very special thing. Its history began nearly a half-century ago, in 1975, and since then it has hosted many of the greatest wine writers of our time. There is a depth of wisdom here which is rare, and to be greatly treasured. In an age when attention spans are measured in milliseconds, a publication…

Welcome As the new custodian of Decanter, I should introduce myself. I’m a journalist and editor of many years experience, and over my career I’ve launched, worked on and run a few things you might have heard of, from Fleet Street newspapers to big-selling magazines, global awards and respected websites. But I have never felt so simultaneously honoured and apprehensive as I do now. Decanter – now a rich website, a splendid magazine, and much more – is a very special thing. Its history began nearly a half-century ago, in 1975, and since then it has hosted many of the greatest wine writers of our time. There is a depth of wisdom here which is rare, and to be greatly treasured. In an age when attention spans are measured in…

The art of wine Born and red Tenuta San Leonardo, Trentino, Italy Members of the Franchini family have served as estate managers for this historic wine producer for most of the 20th century, employed by the Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga family. Alberto Martello (pictured) is husband to Luigina Franchini, the last in her family line to work there. The estate is home to employees and their families, who for generations have passed down their knowledge of the earth and the art of working it. Photograph: Marina Spironetti www.marinaspironetti.com…

Bordeaux gives go-ahead for new grapes Six ‘new’ grape varieties that could help Bordeaux châteaux fight climate change have been provisionally approved for use, as St-Emilion wineries join forces to build an anti-hail defence system (below). France’s national appellation body, INAO, approved six varieties proposed for use by producers of Bordeaux AP and Supérieur wines. It’s potentially a major move, although the reality of adapting to climate change is extremely complex. Touriga Nacional is among four red wine varieties on the list, and it needs little introduction to Port lovers and fans of Portuguese wine in general. The other three are Castets, Arinarnoa and Marselan, the last of which is a crossing between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache Noir and has enjoyed success in China in recent years. Two white wine varieties, Alvarinho and Liliorila,…

South Africa’s government has partially lifted an alcohol sales ban, imposed due to Covid-19. Trade body Vinpro welcomed the move but said intermittent bans since March 2020 have cost the industry 8 billion rand (£390m) in direct sales. MD Rico Basson said it was ‘too late for some businesses’, while excess supply in some winery cellars would mean ‘tough decisions’ as the 2021 harvest began. Fifth growth Château du Tertre has been sold by the Albada Jelgersma family, which will focus on fellow Margaux estate Giscours and Caiarossa in Tuscany. Alexander van Beek, MD for the wineries, said there is ‘enormous determination to really put Giscours where it belongs’. The Helfrich family bought du Tertre with a ‘French institutional investor’, which acquired the land. Michelin has named 54 new one-star…

News A month in wine All the important wine news from around the world, compiled by Chris Mercer Bordeaux gives go-ahead for new grapes Six ‘new’ grape varieties that could help Bordeaux châteaux fight climate change have been provisionally approved for use, as St-Emilion wineries join forces to build an anti-hail defence system (below). France’s national appellation body, INAO, approved six varieties proposed for use by producers of Bordeaux AP and Supérieur wines. It’s potentially a major move, although the reality of adapting to climate change is extremely complex. Touriga Nacional is among four red wine varieties on the list, and it needs little introduction to Port lovers and fans of Portuguese wine in general. The other three are Castets, Arinarnoa and Marselan, the last of which is a crossing…