Decanter September 2021

An issue or so ago, I asked for comments and suggestions on what you’d like to see in Decanter. I was, I must admit, a little nervous about what we’d receive. Streams of abuse? Demands for a column on lacrosse, beat poetry or the correct way to wear a cravat? Nothing at all? Thankfully, I was proved wrong on all counts. Your responses have been thoughtful and polite, and have reinforced my opinion that Decanter readers are exactly the sort of people who would be very pleasant company over a glass of something good. We had some very astute advice on French wines from a gentleman in Brazil, and a superb suggestion for a feature on aperitifs, which we will be commissioning before lunch. There were also fine ideas on…

EDITOR’S LETTER You’re all extremely nice An issue or so ago, I asked for comments and suggestions on what you’d like to see in Decanter. I was, I must admit, a little nervous about what we’d receive. Streams of abuse? Demands for a column on lacrosse, beat poetry or the correct way to wear a cravat? Nothing at all? Thankfully, I was proved wrong on all counts. Your responses have been thoughtful and polite, and have reinforced my opinion that Decanter readers are exactly the sort of people who would be very pleasant company over a glass of something good. We had some very astute advice on French wines from a gentleman in Brazil, and a superb suggestion for a feature on aperitifs, which we will be commissioning before lunch.…

Meet the Decanter experts FIONA BECKETT is a Decanter contributing editor. Publishing at matchingfoodandwine. com, she is a leading expert on food and drink matching, wine columnist for The Guardian and author of 25 books on food, wine and beer CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine-wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine for Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and trained at Le Cordon Bleu Paris LAURA FOSTER is a widely published freelance journalist and writer with a particular focus on spirits and cocktails. She was formerly deputy editor of UK on-trade drinks title Imbibe and bar & drinks editor for Square Meal ELIZABETH GABAY MW is a specialist in rosé and the wines of Provence.…

FIONA BECKETT is a Decanter contributing editor. Publishing at matchingfoodandwine. com, she is a leading expert on food and drink matching, wine columnist for The Guardian and author of 25 books on food, wine and beer CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine-wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine for Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and trained at Le Cordon Bleu Paris LAURA FOSTER is a widely published freelance journalist and writer with a particular focus on spirits and cocktails. She was formerly deputy editor of UK on-trade drinks title Imbibe and bar & drinks editor for Square Meal ELIZABETH GABAY MW is a specialist in rosé and the wines of Provence. She is author of Rosé, Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution (Infinite…

Ausone and Cheval Blanc opt out of St-Emilion classification Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc have caused a stir on Bordeaux’s Right Bank after it emerged they intended to withdraw from the official St-Emilion classification. The news comes ahead of the 2022 edition of the classification, which is revised every 10 years. Ausone and Cheval Blanc reconfirmed their top-tier, premier grand cru classé A rating in 2012, when they were joined by Châteaux Angélus and Pavie. Ausone said it had been considering its position for some time and a decision was made independently of Cheval Blanc. But both estates suggested that terroir and winemaking don’t feature strongly enough in the classification’s current judging criteria. The grading also takes producers’ market initiatives and tourism provisions into consideration. Cheval Blanc’s leadership team commented in a letter…

Carpe diem: open those bottles Several years ago I began renting a small space in a specialist wine storage facility in southwest London. I don’t have a big collection, but I enjoy buying bottles that will mature over time and most are now reaching their drinking windows. It’s mainly Italian reds, and Ports bought for anniversaries. I got the news recently that a fire had destroyed my collection. Thankfully nobody was hurt, and the wine was insured. But I was still fairly gutted. To start again would make me an old man by the time I could drink the wine. Thankfully it seems my locker was far enough away from the fire to escape damage. I feel for those who weren’t as lucky. The whole affair has taught me an important lesson. Wine…