Decanter January 2022

UK-based readers of a certain vintage may remember an Irish comedian called Dave Allen, whose end-of-show line was the nicely nuanced ‘may your god go with you’. And just as we choose our own deities (Bacchus, anyone?), so we choose what we celebrate, when, how, and who with. So whether your chosen feast day is Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, Thanksgiving, Diwali, Lunar New Year, Hanukkah, Cinco de Mayo, or all of the above and more – which sounds a little tiring – you’ll have your very own special set of traditions and treats. And that’s exactly as it should be. However, sometimes we all need a little help in deciding on the details – which is where we hope we can help. We’ve filled this issue with…

GRAPES: GARNACHA THE RISE AND RISE OF GARNACHA Spain’s widespread excitement for Garnacha has spread to Rioja. Traditionally used in blends, this grape variety is not only performing well on its own, but is also capturing the distinctive character of the region’s terroirs STORY AMAYA CERVERA Garnacha is an increasingly popular choice for ambitious winemakers in Rioja. ‘It reflects the specific character of an area better than Tempranillo,’ says Juan Bautista García of Bodegas Paco García, who discovered that most of the old vineyards in Murillo de Río Leza – the village southeast of Logroño where he is based – were planted with Garnacha. ‘Tempranillo is fairly homogenous; Garnacha is prone to coulure [poor fruit set after flowering] and production can vary widely, but it offers far more diversity and…

JANE ANSON is a widely published and awarded wine writer, educator and judge. Resident in Bordeaux, she was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent for over 20 years, and has recently launched her own website janeanson.com ÅSA JOHANSSON is a writer on wine, food and travel, and an educator at the Swedish school of sommeliers. Born in Stockholm but based in Tuscany, she writes for prominent titles in Sweden, Norway, Canada and Italy FIONA BECKETT is a contributing editor to Decanter. Publishing at matchingfoodandwine.com, she is a leading expert on food and drink matching, writes a column for The Guardian and is author of 25 books on food, wine and beer PETER RANSCOMBE is a widely published journalist, author, copywriter and drinks columnist-blogger for Scottish Field magazine. A regular contributor to Decanter, his first novel Hare was published by Knox…

This Christmas set to be ‘a pink affair’, says Majestic Beaujolais and winter rosé are among the big trends this festive season, according to new data from Majestic Wine. A surprise UK Beaujolais revival in 2020 is still ongoing through 2021, said the retailer in its recent trends report, adding that sales data also suggested that Christmas 2021 could be a ‘pink affair’ as more people come to appreciate the joy of food-friendly rosé. Other trends include a South African wine renaissance and resurgent, post-lockdown fizz sales – led by crémant, grower Champagne and English sparkling – plus ‘unprecedented’ Port demand in 2021, ‘driven by unusual, but Instagram-friendly, bottle shapes’. Majestic’s chief commercial officer, Robert Cooke, predicted ‘a real variety of bottles on the UK’s Christmas tables’, despite supply chain challenges. Its sales of…

RIOJA GUIDE CERVERA’S PICK: 10 RIOJA GARNACHA WINES TO SEEK OUT Ojuel, Fuente León Garnacha Blanca 2019 91 N/A UK ojuelwine.com After reviving supurao, a traditional sweet wine made from dehydrated grapes, Miguel Martínez continues to explore the highaltitude vineyards of Sierra de Moncalvillo. This limited release (a little more than 600 bottles) was fermented with 30% skins. There is something wild about the wine, with dried herbs, white fruit and a nice tension on the palate. Drink 2021-2024 Alcohol 13% 1 Cornelio Dinastía, Vega Vella Garnacha Blanca Fermentada en Huevo de Hormigón 2020 90 N/A UK bodegascornelio.com An organic wine sourced from vineyards grown on lime/clay soils in Rioja Oriental. The style is opulent and fruit-driven (pear, peach), probably due to the fact that the wine has been aged…

SOURCE: THE WORLD OF WINE REPORT DECANTER LOVES… PINO 3000 Pino 3000 takes extreme viticulture to the next level. This joint venture wine was conceived by the team at ice Q, Europe’s highest gourmet restaurant, 3,048m up, in Sölden in the Austrian Tyrol. Three leading winemakers from Austria, Germany and Italy were inspired to produce a blend of top Pinot Noir grapes from each of their wineries, matured in oak at the summit of the Gaislachkogl mountain. Taste the 2019 vintage at ice Q – or €1,260 buys you a case of wine and a night at Das Central hotel for the next Pino 3000 Collection launch in late 2022. iceq.at…