Decanter February 2022

Franciacorta Most famous for its prestigious sparkling wines, Franciacorta in Lombardy is not often high on the tourist itinerary. But with its stunning hills and lake, pre-Roman history and many wineries to explore, you won’t want to leave STORY CARLA CAPALBO Have dinner in any self-respecting restaurant in Italy, or a pre-dinner aperitivo in a bar there, and you’ll be offered a glass of Franciacorta. The sparkling wines from this small, terroir-driven DOCG wine area in Lombardy, northern Italy, are Italy’s answer to Champagne: high-quality, home-grown bubbles of prestige. If these wines are less well known outside Italy it’s because the majority of the 17.5 million bottles produced in Franciacorta each year are drunk in Italy. ‘Up and down the country, a glass of Franciacorta is our preferred way to…

We’ve rather immodestly claimed on the cover of this issue that the Wines of the Year is our best tasting ever. But, allowing for a certain amount of brevity in the interest of not boring casual magazine browsers, I very much stand by that statement. While we’ve done many, many great tastings over the years this one was a perfect example of that rare moment when all the stars align and things go pretty damn near perfectly. Our judges were true experts, and their opinions matched to a highly unusual degree for a blind tasting. The suggestions from our panel were wide-ranging and fascinating in both depth and breadth. And the wines were excellent, from established classics proving their pedigree to unusual varieties punching well above their weight. I was…

MY PERFECT DAY IN FRANCIACORTA MORNING Wherever I’m sleeping in Franciacorta, I have breakfast at Pasticceria Roberto (pasticceriaroberto.com) in Erbusco. The pastries and buns are excellent, including the cloud-light brioche veneziana (filled with crème pâtissière). For extra calories, try the cappuccino della nonna, enriched with egg. I’m happiest with a spremuta d’arancia, freshly squeezed orange juice. From there, it’s a short drive to visit the most historic winery in Franciacorta, Guido Berlucchi (berlucchi.it). At its heart is the handsome 17th-century palazzo where, in 1961, the first 3,000 bottles of a sparkling wine ‘in the French style’ were made by Franco Ziliani. Today, award-winning wines are still made by the Ziliani family and aged in the palazzo’s imposing underground cellars. LUNCH & AFTERNOON Lunch is on the spectacular terrace of Albereta Relais (albereta.it). Once…

CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine-wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine for Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and trained at Le Cordon Bleu Paris ROLFE HANSON is a writer with 30 years’ experience in the wine trade working in various roles across wholesale and retail. He covers overlooked and emerging issues affecting consumers and sellers of wine ANDREW JEFFORD is a contributing editor to Decanter magazine, and a Co-Chair overseeing all judging at the DWWA. His journalism and books have won many awards, and he lives with his family near Montpellier in France MILLIE MILLIKEN is a freelance drinks writer with a particular focus on spirits and the hospitality sector. She was previously deputy editor at UK…

Wine lovers braced for price increases in 2022 There’s been speculation that wine lovers could see prices rise in 2022, due to the higher cost of everything from glass to shipping, and smaller harvests. Winemakers and merchants are no strangers to tight profit margins, but the UK Wine and Spirit Trade Association raised concerns before Christmas that wine prices may rise in 2022 due to higher costs, inflation and supply chain issues. Daniel Lambert, MD of importer Daniel Lambert Wines, said costs were up in several areas, including on glass across Europe and on shipping globally. Smaller 2021 harvests in some major regions could intensify price pressure on certain varietal wines, too. Lambert predicted a ‘global shortage’ of Sauvignon Blanc in 2022, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay supplies also looking tight. He…

TRAVEL YOUR FRANCIACORTA ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Agriturismo Locande le Quattro Terre For a restful stay immersed in the countryside at Corte Franca, this winery agriturismo offers spacious rooms, a restaurant with local dishes and easy access to the lake and wineries. quattroterre.it Corte Lantieri, Capriolo The agriturismo of a fine winery, Lantieri di Paratico, is surrounded by vineyards and has its own restaurant and pool. cortelantieri.it Hotel Araba Fenice, Iseo If it’s the lake you fancy, stay at this gorgeous hotel right on the shore, with lake views and a real feeling of the Grand Tour. arabafenicehotel.it RESTAURANTS Dispensa Pani e Vini, Torbiato Wine shop, wine bar and restaurant, this is a perfect place for a meal or for sampling wines accompanied by assorted cheeses and salumi in a handsome…