Breaking Cornbread
TWENTY YEARS AGO, on July 22, 1999, a diverse group of Southern food writers, chefs, and historians gathered in the heat of summer at the Southern Living offices in Birmingham to create an organization that would use teaching and storytelling to tackle issues of race, poverty, and division in the South. It was a bold idea and not the first of its kind, but with strong support from the University of Mississippi, the group was fueled by a sense of optimism and excitement. Southern food was on the rise, and there seemed to be an opportunity to bring together people of all races and creeds around a common table. Led by a charismatic writer from Nashville named John Egerton, they called themselves the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA). That night, they met…