Cooking That Counts
WHEN WE SPEND Thanksgiving with my family in Memphis, as we’re doing this year, my mother always pulls down the same three spiral-bound cookbooks: River Road Recipes by the Junior League of Baton Rouge (1959), Party Potpourri by the Junior League of Memphis (1971), and Jambalaya by the Junior League of New Orleans (1980). As you might expect, they are stained and spattered, with yellowing pages, broken bindings, and plenty of scrawled notes in Mom’s elegant script (usually “needs more spice”). There are others she turns to, but these are the old faithfuls, the ones she trusts when everything is on the line—in other words, when family is coming. Given how many copies of these cookbooks were sold, there’s a good chance you have one in your kitchen too. River Road…