Food & Wine
Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated September/October 2018

At Cook's Illustrated, our test cooks are dedicated to testing and retesting recipes 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will come out right the first time -- and every time -- you make it. And each issue of Cook's Illustrated is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page. As we like to say at Cook's Illustrated, "We make the mistakes so you don't have to."

United States
Boston Common Press, LP
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6 Issues

In this issue

1 min.
french breads

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE France lays claim to many of the world’s great breads, most notably the lean, chewy, deeply browned BAGUETTE. Variations include PAIN D’EPI, in which the dough is cut into pointy lobes to resemble a wheat stalk. The name BÂTARD is often said to reference the loaf’s torpedo-like shape—a “bastardization” of a slender baguette and a round boule. Cuts in FOUGASSE dough increase its crust-to-crumb ratio; many versions include olives, cheese, or seeds. The cuts in an ÉCHELLE loaf form a “ladder.” A COURONNE is the French equivalent of pull-apart rolls. To make CHAMPIGNON, boulangers place a thin disk of dough on top of a roll to form the “cap.” With its substantial crust and mellow tang, PAIN AU LEVAIN is a classic example of sourdough.…

2 min.
the summer of jaws

The summer after my sophomore year of college, I got braces—and my jaw broken. On purpose. My doctor called it preventive surgery, which made it sound prudent. My jaw had been growing out of alignment for years, and his description of a pain- and headache-free existence was enough to convince me to go for it. What he didn’t dwell on was that my jaw would remain wired shut for seven weeks. After surgery, it didn’t take me long to put together a list of the things for which an open mouth is paramount. First, there’s sneezing and coughing. With a closed mouth both feel like being slapped upside the head, but from the inside. And of course, there’s yawning. No satisfaction or relief comes from a closed-mouth yawn. (Does it even…

3 min.
quick tips

Storing Butter “Orphans” Whenever Elise Darrow of Denver, Colo., gets to the end of a stick of butter, she stores it in a clean, lidded plastic dairy container. (If the pieces are exact tablespoons, she leaves the measurement-marked wrapper on so that she can use them for cooking and baking.) This frees up her butter dish for a new stick, and the “orphans” don’t absorb any unpleasant refrigerator odors. Steady—Then Sanitize—Your Cutting Board Mike D’Angelo of Rockville Centre, N.Y., has long used the trick of placing a dampened paper towel under his cutting board to stabilize it. Recently he improved upon the technique by spraying the paper towel with cleaner. When he’s done cutting, he uses the sanitized towel to wipe the work surfaces clean. A Carrier for Hot Casseroles When Troy Emerson of Somerville,…

9 min.
one-pan chicken and potatoes

Roast chicken and potatoes are near-universal favorites. Add a superflavorful pan sauce and you’ve got a slam dunk. A terrific example of this combination is chicken Vesuvio, a dish beloved in the Italian American restaurants of Chicago: Chicken and potatoes are cooked in a single skillet along with a garlicky white wine pan sauce that practically makes itself. So why aren’t we all making chicken Vesuvio at home? Before I answer, a look at how the dish comes together in a restaurant kitchen: A line cook makes each serving to order by searing a half chicken skin side down in an olive oil–slicked skillet and then adding potato wedges, which brown and crisp in the rendered fat. Everything is sprinkled generously with minced garlic and dried herbs, and then the chicken…

9 min.
real carne adovada

Before I take you on a deep dive into carne adovada, one of New Mexico’s most celebrated dishes and quite possibly the easiest braise you will ever make, I need to back up and explain how hugely significant chiles are in New Mexican cuisine. For one thing, the state claims its own unique chile cultivars. The relatively mild peppers, which are sold both fresh—either unripe and green or ripe and red—and dried were first released by New Mexico State University in 1913 and have since become one of the defining ingredients in the local cuisine—not to mention the state’s most lucrative cash crop. New Mexico even passed a law declaring that only chiles grown in the state may be labeled as such. Dishes that feature the peppers typically contain few other…

8 min.
next-level grilled steak

When was the last time you hosted a summer cookout and made a dish that your guests snapped up in minutes and raved about for the rest of the night? If you can’t recall, consider this recipe—a popular Japanese preparation called negimaki—an opportunity to up your grill game. The name may sound exotic, but its flavors and presentation are not. Negimaki is essentially a hybrid of beef teriyaki and rolled sushi, at least conceptually. To make it, cooks slice and pound a steak into thin strips, which they lay on a flat surface in an overlapping arrangement to form a rectangle. Then they roll the meat around a small bundle of scallions (negi means “scallion”; maki, “roll”) to form a tight cylinder, fasten it with toothpicks, grill it over a hot…