Gourmet Traveller February 2020

When we first began planning this issue four months ago, none of us could have foreseen how calamitous this year’s bushfire season would be. It has been a heartbreaking and horrific start to the year. It also gives new weight and relevance to this issue’s theme, which is sustainability. Our intention was always to highlight and champion the people, brands and businesses that are actively stepping up to employ more sustainable practices. And to encourage everyone to play their part; to try something new and, hopefully, introduce more thoughtful behaviours into your life. That doesn’t mean becoming a full-time vegan or giving up international travel, but rather, thinking more consciously about how you eat and how you travel, and making small changes that collectively will have a big impact. If this summer…

Port Stephens, NSW; Joanna Hunkin, editor A weekend at Port Stephens was made even better thanks to Bannisters’ pet-friendly policy, which meant my best pal Wilbur could join. @hunkies_news Lord Howe Island, NSW; Jordan Kretchmer, writer This World Heritage-listed isle is teeming with endemic flora and fauna. To truly get among it all, hike up Mount Gower. It offers the best views of the whole island, and a serious sense of accomplishment at its summit. @jordisnacks Rottnest Island, WA; Laura Jacobs, art director The yearly pilgrimage to Rottnest Island did not disappoint with days spent on the beach and nights enjoying the catch of the day. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. @laurajanejacobs…

JESSICA RIGG writer A chef’s guide As founder of new global dining guide The Local Tongue, Jessica Rigg sits down with top chefs and fellow food writers to get the lowdown on where they love to eat and drink in their home city. For this issue, she interviews Copenhagen chef and restaurateur Christian F Puglisi. “Christian’s list of his favourite local restaurants reflects everything he stands for: sustainable, seasonal and organic food,” she says. VIVIEN WALSH stylist Garden state Making the transition from interiors to food styling, Vivien Walsh flexed her skills to ensure this issue’s plant-based recipes looked bountiful and fresh. “I loved being able to run with my ‘more is more’ philosophy, and play with colour and texture,” she says. When Walsh isn’t making things look beautiful, you’ll find her on Sydney’s Northern…

HAND-HARVESTED SEAFOOD, Quay Start as you mean to continue. Peter Gilmore sets the tone for an exceptional meal as he opens Quay’s 10-course menu with this impossibly delicate, fresh seafood dish. Virgin soy and aged vinegar bring perfect balance to this feather-light delight. Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW. JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR CANNOLI, Lalla Rookh Trust the chefs of Lalla Rookh to take a classic and make it even better. This Sicilian dessert arrives looking like its traditional self, crisp and dotted with pistachios, but it was the addition of savoury juniper that had me asking for seconds. 77 St Georges Terrace, Perth, WA. LAURA JACOBS, ART DIRECTOR BARBACOA DE CORDERO TACOS, La Casita This Brunswick restaurant’s name may translate to “the little house”, but chef Josh Lewis is generating big ideas. Here, lamb…

SYDNEY Coogee Pavilion opened in 2014 and has since become a blockbuster multi-level venue, with 3000 plates hitting tables on an average day. Now, Merivale will unveil three new venues on the middle floor. Mimi’s will serve grilled seafood, with a Mediterranean-inspired menu designed by Jordan Toft. While award-winning bartender Luke Ashton will bring his expertise to cocktail bar Will’s, following the closure of his Darlinghurst bar This Must Be the Place. Tapas bar Una Más will round out the trio. In Clovelly, pastry chef Yves Scherrer (ex-Sokyo) also looks to Europe, with Madame & Yves. The pâtisserie sells French treats (pictured) such as Earl Grey éclairs, blueberry-cheesecake entremets, and Ferrero Rocher croissants. In Chippendale, LP’s Quality Meats will close its restaurant, renovate and focus on smallgoods production. But good news, the new…

Dan the Man prefers to throw around ideas, rather than throw things out. For one catering job, the Sydney business served lamb and used the leftover fat to create a candle that was poured into an empty chickpea tin (the legumes were on the menu, too). It’s the kind of creative thinking that’s helping the company achieve its goal of one day becoming Australia’s first zero-waste caterer. Co-founder Ilana Cooper says peering inside the compost bin has inspired her team. Carrot tops and peels, from heirloom-carrot crudités, were taking up a lot of bin space at events. “Enter carrot-top pesto and carrot-peel bar snacks,” she says. “They also made their way into our signature mongrel focaccia, which is made with our leftover herbs.” And instead of single-use napkins, the team uses…