Food & Wine
Gourmet Traveller April 2020
Each issue is packed with great dish ideas, hot restaurants and bars, entertaining tips, the best hotels and lavish spreads on some of the world’s most intoxicating travel destinations - everything you should expect from the Australia's premier food and travel magazine.
in this issue
editor’s letter
Growing up overseas, I learnt fairly early on that family is more than just those who share your DNA. Birthdays and Christmases were spent with a wide variety of friends, while grandparents and cousins were friendly strangers who made a brief appearance every year or so. When I moved to New Zealand as a teenager, I was introduced to the Maori concept of whanau. Typically translated as “family”, whanau can also refer to a much broader network, extending to your wider community and those who support you. Anyone who comes together for a shared purpose, from workmates to sport teams, might consider themselves whanau. I’ve always loved this interpretation and approach to family. But it takes on new relevance as we face a raft of travel restrictions in the coming months. Many…
where we’ve been
Ellis Beach, Queensland; Lisa Featherby, food director The drive from Cairns to Port Douglas possesses some of the most beautiful coastline in Australia, which is quiet and tranquil in the off-season. @lisafeatherby Wat Don Wai, Thailand; Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor Best known for soupy duck noodles and fried fish cakes, Don Wai Floating Market is a 30-minute drive from Bangkok’s centre and away from the tourist traps. @karlie_verkerk Wellington, New Zealand; Hannah Blackmore, creative director Perched on the harbour’s edge, this creative capital is filled with delicious places to eat. There are also incredible views from the Mount Victoria lookout. @hannahblackmore…
contributors
LUCY CORRY writer French lessons, p124 Lucy Corry has had a long-distance love affair with France ever since she was in high school. Last year she waved goodbye to Wellington, her hometown in New Zealand, and embraced life in the French countryside with her family for six months. “I thought it might get it out of my system, but it’s had the reverse effect,” she says. “All I can think about is, ‘When can we go back?’” LUISA BRIMBLE photographer Next gen, p76 Luisa Brimble is a James Beard-nominated photographer, who regularly shoots chefs both in and out of the kitchen. For this issue, Brimble shot Dan Hong and his family sharing a meal together at Ms G’s in Sydney, where Hong is executive chef. “It was really nice to see a beloved chef with their family,”…
what we’re eating
BEEF RIB AND TONGUE TACOS, La Cabana Ben Foss of food truck Eat No Evil now has a home for his imaginative Aus-Mex tacos. This beer-braised beef and wattleseed mole number is reason enough to hit this family-and pet-friendly taqueria in boho South Freo. 400 South Tce, South Fremantle, WA. MAX VEENHUYZEN, WESTERN AUSTRALIA EDITOR HEIRLOOM TOMATO, CAPER, SHALLOT AND TUNA MAYONNAISE, Labart This tasty, lighter twist on vitello tonnato sees veal replaced by a fat slice of oxheart tomato that’s dialled up with garum and hazelnut oil. Just slather on the tuna anchovy mayo, add a scatter of golden shallot, some tiny capers and, hey presto, it’s a tomato tonnato! 2a/8 West St, Burleigh Heads, Qld. FIONA DONNELLY, QUEENSLAND EDITOR CLAM RISOTTO, Ortega Fish Shack This Wellington seafood hotspot from head chef and co-owner…
restaurant news
SYDNEY Cartmel in England’s Lake District is famous for three things: its sticky toffee pudding, its racecourse and being home to two-Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume. But from 15 July to 30 August, chef Simon Rogan will relocate L’Enclume to Bather’s Pavilion for a six-week residency, where he’ll oversee every single service. Signature dishes – such as the L’Enclume dessert (an anvil forged from chocolate, which is a tribute to the restaurant’s French name) – will get an Australian twist. Even the crockery will be handmade locally for the pop-up restaurant. Bookings for the 11-course dégustation are now open batherspavilion.com.au MELBOURNE The history of Albert Park Hotel dates back to 1883 and, after being closed since 2014, its doors have reopened following a striking transformation by Six Degrees Architects and stylist Anna Roberts. The pub…
on the pass
You grew up in Brisbane with families who were refugees. What do you remember eating? When we first arrived, we had our first taste of Western food. It was really interesting to see all these newly landed Vietnamese people eating cheese-and-Vegemite sandwiches for lunch and roasts and lasagne for dinner. It was so different to what I knew. Your mother would cook pho for family and friends. Has her recipe influenced what you serve at Pho Nom? Absolutely! My mum’s cooking inspired me to open my first Pho Nom. Her specialty is Hu Tieu Nam Vang (a rice-noodle dish in a clear chicken and pork-bone broth) – we serve it at Pho Nom, and I always strive to make mine as good as hers. Are your parents tough judges when it comes…
