Gourmet Traveller September 2018

Each issue is packed with great dish ideas, hot restaurants and bars, entertaining tips, the best hotels and lavish spreads on some of the world’s most intoxicating travel destinations - everything you should expect from the Australia's premier food and travel magazine.

Are Media Pty Limited
12 Issues

in this issue

2 min
editor’s letter

The outpouring of grief and shock was immediate and overwhelming. Not only did the newly reopened Quay not have the snow egg on the menu, it was also missing its tablecloths. It was a lot of change, all at once. I can empathise: I fear change and I’m a passionate advocate for always saving room for dessert, especially when Peter Gilmore is cooking. As I took my seat in the newly reopened and tablecloth-free Quay earlier this month, I overheard the couple behind me discussing which of Gilmore’s two new desserts might be “most like the egg”. The fervour and passion for the menu at Quay isn’t limited to Sydneysiders, though – a dedicated diner from Melbourne, who couldn’t get a booking before the restaurant’s hiatus, tried to negotiate bringing an…

2 min

GILL MELLER chef Cottage industry, p132 Chef and food writer Gill Meller has been part of the River Cottage family for just over a decade. In his latest book, Time, Meller shares recipes inspired by the seasons and imbued with a strong sense of home. “Cooking is a way to mark the passing of time,” he says. “It’s a way to celebrate it, but also remember it. I believe that every time we make something good to eat, we make a memory.” STEFANIA GENISIO sommelier Paris connection, p162 Genisio developed her palate and stamina while working as a sommelier at places including Bones in Paris, Belon in Hong Kong, and Fred’s in Sydney. It was in Paris, though, that wine became a significant part of her life. “Wine was the thing we discussed and thought about all…

1 min
what we’re eating

CURED SNAPPER, TANGELO, POLLEN YOGHURT AND PICKLED DULSE, Birch When snapper, cured with seaweed and teamed with slivers of tangelo, gets a second seaside-hit from pickled dulse, you could be forgiven for almost expecting to catch a glimpse of the surf in the windows rather than the frost-rimed branches of the Southern Highlands. Birch, 2/249 Argyle St, Moss Vale, NSW, (02) 4868 1817. LAURA JACOBS, JUNIOR DESIGNER VIETNAMESE-COFFEE ICE-CREAM PROFITEROLES, Liberté Great drinks. Easygoing bartenders. Liberté makes it all look so simple. A similar effortlessness informs the cooking: get a load of Amy Hamilton’s winning Indochine mash-up of bittersweet ice-cream encased in crisp choux. Liberté, 160-162 Stirling Tce, Albany, WA, (08) 9847 4797. MAX VEENHUYZEN, WESTERN AUSTRALIA EDITOR HAND-DIVED HEBRIDEAN SCALLOPS, The Scallop Shack At the end of a single-lane road on the wild west…

2 min
meet lesa

Lesa might be Embla’s new sibling but she doesn’t want for polish. Embla made its name on Russell Street as a place where a person might drop in for a quick drink or snack, but find themselves charmed by the quality of the food and wine. Lesa, on the other hand, is intended to have a heightened sense of occasion. Unlike its neighbour downstairs, Lesa takes reservations and serves dishes for you to enjoy all by yourself (rather than sharing with the table). Expect plenty of char and smoke on the menu from the wood-fired hearth. Highlights include local flounder with pear-leaf oil and a hazelnut miso, and a riff on the French classic île flottante starring roast-barley koji anglaise and salted bergamot. Even though it’s directly above Embla, the new restaurant…

1 min
the verdict on tablecloths

When Sydney restaurant Quay (above; see our review p55) reopened, the decision to ditch the linen sparked controversy. Are tablecloths a necessity in fine dining? We put it to Australia’s top chefs and restaurateurs. No: “A clothless table in fine dining is not a new thing: either today, with restaurants such as Noma, or in the Tudor times of the 16th century,” says John Fink, of The Fink Group. Maybe: “We have about a 50/50 split of tables with tablecloths and tables with granite tops,” says Ben Shewry, of Melbourne’s Attica. Yes: At Sydney’s Aria, Matt Moran believes tablecloths are part of “the magic of a great dining experience”.…

1 min
universal provider

Sushi brushes handmade in Kyoto. DIY kits for making chopsticks, spoons and butter knives. Cushions printed with ramen and sushi patterns. You’ll find them all at Provider Store, a new Sydney shop run by Tara Bennett. An extension of Bennett’s online shop, Provider Store features items from Asia, Scandinavia and Australia that Bennett has sourced with fervour (she once jumped on a plane to Bangkok just to meet a ceramic-shop owner, Varamol “Mint” Chunchartprasert, whom she came across on Instagram). Mint’s ceramic cups now appear in Provider Store as candle-holders – Bennett fills them (and Japanese pots) with soy wax herself. “The idea is that once they burn out, you get something better to use after,” she says. Or if you love the candle, we can refill it.” Bennett also hosts candle-making…