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category_outlined / Fashion
SHOWDETAILS MENSHOWDETAILS MEN

SHOWDETAILS MEN

Fall - Winter 2019

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
SHOWDETAILS SRL
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2 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time2 min.
milano+paris+london+firenze+new york men collections a/w 2019.20

The term‘hemline index’ was coined by American economist George Taylor in 1926 to describe the way that skirt hemlines moved up and down according to economic trends, so shorter in boom time and longer during a downturn. It’s a theory that could be applied to various periods of history, such as the mini-skirt in the sixties and the long hippy skirts worn by the flower children in the ‘70s. But why does the theory apply solely to womenswear and not to menswear too? The latest menswear shows celebrated not only floor-skimming trouser legs but also a broader oversized and hyper-protective fashion with very little bare skin exposed. Some might say that is because it is winter, but actually the oversize trend has been going too strong for several seasons now,…

access_time2 min.
oversize

LOUIS VUITTONExaggerated volumes always recall the shabby clown figure.Like Marni’s rebel, which made oversize his style manifesto with drastically outsize overcoats, suits, jumpers and trousers, extra-long sleeves, protruding edges, and frayed hems trampled by enormous shoes. Layering and clashing colours, added to the untidy look, increased the voluminous effect even further.There were lots of XL pieces in the ‘bel’ Ami show, which featured an haute-bourgeoisie heir, choosing oversized tailoring sometimes worn over a bare chest and teamed with a maxi scarf that almost reached to the floor. Ultra-comfortable jumpers and shirts, with sleeves covering the hands, were worn half untucked in loose, low crotch trousers puddling over the shoes.If Virgil Abloh thinks clothes must in some way convey the depths of the soul, then they have to be layered and…

access_time2 min.
tailoring variations

DIOR HOMMEThese days, digressing into tailoring is no longer the exception but the rule, which is repeated in menswear every season like a mantra.And this time around, Dolce & Gabbana chose not only to stick to the purest tailoring tradition but dedicated its entire collection to it, bringing the workshop to the runway and drawing inspiration from the classic elegance of the stars of yesteryear. It was a clear restating of the classics, with an obvious focus on coats, dinner jackets and single and double-breasted suits, which ranged from structured to fluid pyjama-suits and wraparound coats and jackets with belted waist. The tailoring from Notte/Vandebosch at Les Hommes leant towards the technical but, with just a few exceptions, it always came with a white shirt and tie appearing from anoraks…

access_time2 min.
punk rock

COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUSPunk proclaimed ‘no future’ but it seems the system, or at least the fashion system, has transformed its slogan into an evergreen style statement, even though some designers claim they have never used it as inspiration for their collections. Take Neil Barrett, who chose punk to celebrate the brand’s twentieth anniversary, offering a mix of all the movement’s characteristic styles, from military to school uniforms, leather biker jackets and trousers mixed with the British tailoring tradition, animal prints and faux fur.But punk is also about rock, which is the mother of all rebellions, and Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester identifies it with the anarchy of the early ’80s, so less romanticism and more edgy looks, with bandanas around the head, oversize spider-web sweaters over slim tank…

access_time3 min.
milano+paris+london+firenze+new york collezioni uomo a/i 2019.20

La ‘teoria dell’orlo’ fu coniata dall’economista americano George Taylor nel 1926 e suggeriva che gli orli delle gonne si regolassero in base all’andamento dell’economia quindi, orli corti in periodi favorevoli e orli lunghi nelle fasi di crisi. Una teoria che ha trovato riscontro in diverse epoche storiche, basti pensare che la mini-gonna è esplosa nei Sixties e che i gonnelloni hippie hanno coperto le gambe di tante figlie dei fiori nei ’70. Ma perché ciò che vale per la moda femminile non può essere valido anche per quella maschile? Le ultime passerelle del menswear hanno celebrato non solo orli dei pantaloni al pavimento ma in generale una moda oversize e iperprotettiva, con pochissimi centimetri di pelle esposta. Una gran voglia di coprirsi, non c’è dubbio, e qualcuno potrà obiettare che…

access_time2 min.
oversize

I volumi esagerati fanno sempre un po’ pensare a un uomo-clown, disordinato e trasandato.Come il ribelle di Marni, che dell’oversize fa quasi un manifesto di stile, con soprabiti, completi, maglioni, pantaloni drasticamente fuori misura, con maniche extralong, lembi che fanno capolino, orli sbrindellati e calpestati da scarpe enormi. Le stratificazioni e i colori che fanno a pugni aggiungono ulteriore disordine, aumentando anche l’effetto voluminoso.Tanti i capi XL nel guardaroba del bel Ami, rampollo di famiglia alto-borghese che sceglie la sartoria sovradimensionata, anche se poi capita che la porti sul petto nudo, abbinata a una maxi-sciarpa che arriva quasi al pavimento. Ultra-comodi anche i maglioni e le camicie, con le maniche che nascondono le mani, indossati un po’ dentro e un po’ fuori i pantaloni ampi, dal cavallo basso, rimborsati sulle…

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