The City of Surprises
“Everything in New Orleans is a good idea.”—BOB DYLAN ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO, not long before I got married, my brother, Marshall, planned a bachelor party in New Orleans that almost changed my life. I was living in New York at the time, and he rented a rambling old house in the Garden District for 10 of my best friends. On our last night, we went to dinner at Galatoire’s, the iconic French Creole restaurant on Bourbon Street, all of us sporting jackets as required by the dress code. We were sitting in the main dining room with those tall ceilings and spinning fans, and suddenly a tuxedoed waiter clinked a glass. A large gentleman stood next to his table, bowed to the crowd, and started singing an aria in a…