SportClimber February 2023

Summit Climbing Gyms offers youth programs for young athletes ages 3-19, at a 11 levels at locations across DFW! All programs build life-long climbers and teach skills on-and-off the wall including technique, mental strength, and teamwork. From camps to weekly after school programs to competitive teams we have the place for you and your athlete! AFTERSCHOOL PROCRAMS Recreational climbing centered on learning the FUNdamentals of this sport! COMPETITIVE TEAMS With multiple competitive levels, there is a team for any competitive youth climbers! CAMPS Climbing camps for those breaks from school! Get active through games and activities! Visit summitgyms.com for more information or to set up a free trial class!…

It has been a great start to SportClimber Magazine and I am excited to share our second issue with you. I would like to thank all of you that have chosen to subscribe and support our efforts. It takes a lot of work not only to put together something worth reading, but convincing others of your project and to ask them to get involved is a task in and of itself. On that note I want to thank all of our writers and contributors who have worked so hard at providing incredible insight and valuable takeaways in their areas of expertise. This month we finish Coach Matt Dendy’s Yeti National preparations as he shares his weekly workout program that young stars Theo Massenat, Ellis Ernsberger, Dillon “Bob” Countryman and Anastasia…

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Hey Fam, and welcome back to the Iron Jungle! In this sacred space, we use science and intentionality to create the very specific outcomes we desire to improve our climbing performance and help reduce our risk of injury. Last month we introduced the principle of intention and how three different climbers were using varying degrees of intention in their preparation off of the wall. This month we are getting specific by looking at the use of intentionality in our resistance training and how we can create powerful outcomes. We’ll examine one of our sponsored athletes Brandon Gay (IG: @brandonboulders). Let’s see what this dude is up to! Now before we start, we need to address the elephant in the room. Elite Performance Climbing athletes don’t stretch. You read that right,…

Editor Note: Author and Coach Matt Dendy shares his teams preparation for Theo Massenat, Ellis Ernsberger, Dillon “Bob” Countryman and Anastasia “Annie” Sanders for the Yeti Open Nationals event last year. Last month I shared with you the importance of understanding what type of event format to train for. We as coaches start off meeting with the athletes in a group or individually to discuss what their training days will be throughout the week and what gyms they will be training at. This is important because we like the athletes to try and climb together as much as possible, especially the days in which they train on lead. The training is based on cycles so if the event is in Nov as was the case with Open Nationals we started…

Gym Workout Single Session MONDAY Lead workout focused on power endurance, pacing and proper rest management. Pacing is the act of adjusting tempo/speed on the wall while being fatigued. Rest Management is being able to find stable positions on the wall to recover and using small rests in between holds while being pumped on the wall. Gym Workout Double Session TUESDAY Session 1: Bouldering workout at one gym with a coach utilizing spray walls (spray wall is a fixed wall or moveable wall that has many different varieties of holds on it) and comp boulders. Focusing on hard individual moves. This type of workout requires a coach or coaches to challenge the athlete with various types of boulder problems on a spray wall and competition style boulders. Session 2: Campus…