Savoring the Sea
Maybe it was the sea air and the strange way it can make food taste better than it does inland, but I’ll never forget the sea urchin fed to me by Stephanie Mutz, the legendary urchin diver who supplies some of the best restaurants in the country with uni (seastephaniefish.com). I was at the Cultured Abalone farm in Santa Barbara, where a million abalone grow, their pearlescent shells shades of turquoise, lavender, and rose (culturedabalone.com). Living alongside the abalone are thousands of purple sea urchins, a species that’s increasingly pushing the prized red sea urchins out of their territory. Pulling the purples from the ocean and finishing them here makes but a dent in rebalancing the populations, but the results are preposterously delicious. Fed a steady, impeccable diet of seaweed…