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SurferSurfer

Surfer April 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time3 min.
editor’s note

Cultural movements are slippery things. It can be hard to pin down the exact moment when a belief held by a handful of eccentrics makes its way into the current of mainstream thought. What may feel like an overnight change is more often a culmination of years of conversations, individual acts and public events that add up to a larger transformation. Sometimes a movement goes from fringe to mainstream so gradually that it’s only after a moment of reflecting on the past that you realize you’ve entered the future.I had one such realization at Blacks Beach in San Diego, California during a recent run of hollow, head-high surf. Paddling out after catching a nice, long South Peak peeler, I watched as a teenage ripper got to his feet on a…

access_time1 min.
the equinox glider

“The way gliders paddle and carry through the water, you get a feel of the past in a way. There’s a story Tom Blake used to tell about Duke in 1935 when the two were surfing Waikiki one day. Duke, who was normally a really mild-mannered guy, was on a 16-foot redwood plank and Blake said the first wave Duke caught on it, the ride went to Duke’s head like wine and he was screaming all the way in. That’s the essence of how these big board grabbed me when I started shaping them again in the early ‘90s. I’ve only rode this board once and man, was it a dream.”…

access_time5 min.
wisdom

“This is the best time to be a surfer. Depending on what country you’re in, you can really ride whatever. That wasn’t the case back in the day.”Study your elders. Listen to everything they say because you’re gonna be in the same place one day. Twenty years go by like that [snaps fingers]. I remember seeing Woody Brown at Mala when he was in his 90s. I was going to surf and he was on the beach. I ran over and said, “Woody! Let’s go!” and he goes, “You go! I’ll just watch.” I didn’t get it then, but I get it now. He physically couldn’t do it, but mentally he was right there with me. He’d already been there a million times, and he was just enjoying it through…

access_time9 min.
beyond rincon

You may think you know Rincon, with its familiar, tapering walls wrapping from Indicator all the way through the Cove, but if you’d been standing on the cobblestones on December 5, 1969, you likely wouldn’t have recognized what you saw. That’s because a swell event like the one that day—the “Swell of the Century,” as it was called at the time—had never happened there before and hasn’t happened since. Massive walls of water crested on the horizon, tripping over bits of bathymetry that had never even created breaking waves before.Shortboard revolutionary George Greenough had seen reports on the evening news of homes being damaged by the swell on the North Shore of Oahu the day before, and he knew something wicked was approaching. So on the morning of December 5,…

access_time17 min.
return   to   freeform

Foam, film, canvas and beyond, Campbell is an artist with mastery of many mediums. (photos by CORBAN CAMBELL)(photo by PATRICK TREFZ)A sculpture made from used skateboard decks and resin, featured by Campbell in a recent gallery show in San Francisco. (Photo by MARIKO REED)“Now this is some crazy shit,” Thomas Campbell said, nodding at the bizarre surfcraft that shaper Travis Reynolds was carrying into a glassing bay at the Santa Cruz Board Builders Guild in Northern California. The tall, husky Campbell had short brown hair that looked vaguely self-cut and the early stages of his salt-and-pepper beard did little to hide his smirk. Reynolds laid the 9'6" surfboard—if you’d like to call it that—on the glassing racks. The board’s wildly curving outline resembled a slithering sidewinder, the whole thing adorned…

access_time1 min.
adrift with the vanguard

Last summer, filmmaker Thomas Campbell invited a group of surfers to join him on an Indonesian boat trip to gather footage for his upcoming film. Campbell has always been attracted to documenting surfers who draw idiosyncratic lines, and who have an openness to experiment with a wide range of surfcraft. For this trip, Campbell called up a freewheeling cadre of characters: Alex Knost, Craig Anderson, Ryan Burch, Jared Mell, Ozzie Wright and Bryce Young. Each of these surfers have carved unique paths through surfing, and some have left indelible imprints on the surf world at large.Over the span of ten days, the crew bounced between perfect reef breaks, swapping boards (many of them handshaped by the surfers themselves) and drawing inspiration from each other’s distinctive approaches to riding waves. What…

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