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Surfer August 2017

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

United States
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues


access_time4 min.
editor’s note

I remember changing into my wetsuit on the sidewalk in the twilight, watching lanky egrets stand statuesque in the Oneonta Slough, a winding offshoot of the Tijuana River that fronts the southern stretch of coastal Imperial Beach, California. The quiet of that predawn hour, coupled with the stillness of the marshland, gave the normally tedious act of climbing into neoprene an almost meditative quality This was a ritual my friends and I repeated frequently, as we’d become deeply enamored with the powerful lefts that tore across the nearby beach on south swells. We’d paddle out along the vast, empty beach fronting the slough, where we’d get into a leg-burning rotation of riding a dozen or so lefts up the beach, then jogging back to whichever peak we started at to do…

access_time5 min.
more (or less) core division

I recently sat down at a bar in the San Diego airport while waiting for a flight to San Francisco, and the bartender and I got to talking about surfing. He asked me what my home break was, and when I told him Ocean Beach, his eyes widened. “Whoa, you surf OB?” he said. “You must be pretty hardcore. Every picture I’ve ever seen of that place, it’s, like, at least 10-foot and heavy. You’re gnarly.” I wasn’t sure what to say. The thing is, I’ve been a surfer for over 20 years, ridden waves on four continents and have been barreled over tropical reefs and frigid sandbars alike, but I’ve never ridden a proper 10- foot wave. Oh, I’ve been steamrolled by a few during rapidly increasing swells in Northern…

access_time5 min.
rizal tanjung, 42

“People are aware of the issues the environment is facing now and are working to help. But this problem isn’t going away easily. All of us need to act.” Having a career in surfing is a surreal thing. I first realized that it was possible when I was 15 years old. Back then, once a year in Bali, we had a big international world junior contest at Kuta Beach. I won the under-16 division, and that was the moment I realized I was a good surfer. At that time, pro surfers from all over the world were starting to come to Bali every summer, and I wanted so much to be a part of that. The friendships you make are the most important part of surfing. My first sponsor was Quiksilver, and…

access_time3 min.
the challenge from down under

1968 “The Challenge from Down Under”: This is a mad piece, in every sense of the word. Mad-angry, mad-crazy, mad-funny. It is nine pages of barbed wire dipped in psilocybin, wrapped in a gorgeous afternoon of waves at Honolua. You know the day: Bob McTavish and Nat Young on their vee-bottom Plastic Machines, Dick Brewer on the cliff quietly seething that he didn’t make those boards first. This was the moment, if you had to pick a moment, when the shortboard blew past the longboard I’ve read this article a hundred times, quoted from it, would rank it as one of the Top 5 essential documents of the shortboard revolution. But boy, it is a hot mess. Starting with authorship. Flamethrowing Aussie surf writer John Witzig got the byline, but most of…

access_time3 min.
the featherweight future

Surfers often follow a herd mentality. (Haven’t you noticed that every time you pick an empty beachbreak peak to paddle out at, someone will paddle up right next to you rather than to the identical empty peak down the beach?) For better or for worse, we tend to pick surfcraft the same way: by riding whatever looks safe and familiar instead of experimenting with exotic shapes and materials. Former aerospace engineer Edison Conner and business wiz Parker Borneman have been doing their best to change that mindset by reimagining the way surfboards are engineered from the inside out. You’ve probably heard of their company, Varial Surf Technology, which made a splash in the industry a few years ago with the release of Varial foam, a strong, lightweight, stringer-less blank that caught…

access_time5 min.
south florida’s toxic summer

Last summer, Florida’s Treasure Coast found itself under siege by an unusual enemy: a noxious, guacamole-like cyanobacterium, more commonly known as blue-green algae, which had overrun waterways and contaminated many local beaches. The invasive algae showed up after a particularly rainy El Niño winter, when billions of gallons of water from Lake Okeechobee were released into the Indian River Lagoon System, eventually entering the St. Lucie River Estuary en route to the Atlantic. Fresh nitrogenand phosphorous-rich water coupled with increasingly warm summer temperatures created the ideal conditions for algal growth. Within months, putrid-smelling slime was washing up onto Treasure Coast beaches, prompting Florida Governor Rick Scott to issue an executive order declaring an emergency in Lee, Palm Beach, St. Lucie and Martin counties. Aside from emitting an atrocious smell, blue-green algae created…