EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
searchclose
shopping_cart_outlined
exit_to_app
category_outlined / Sports
SurferSurfer

Surfer April #60.1 2019

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
Read Morekeyboard_arrow_down
SUBSCRIBE
$8.99
8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time3 min.
editor’s note

Shock and awe are feelings I’ve experienced in Hawaii many times before—usually due to the power of the waves, their proximity to the reef and how swells there are prone to doubling in size if you take your eyes off the horizon for even half a second. But this was a different kind of surprise. This was simply more nudity than I was expecting to see in a public place on a Wednesday morning. It was an otherwise serene setting in the lineup of an obscure Big Island reef. The rain had just stopped and the sun was coming through the clouds in golden columns of heavenly light. The wind had been offshore all morning and a head-high swell offered tapering rights that folded idyllically into thin-lipped barrels. There was also…

access_time5 min.
clueless to ruthless

I simply could not believe it. This freaking guy. He’d barely scratch into a wave at the boil-ridden, sand-sucking point we were surfing before hilariously biffing the drop and getting pitched into the flats, board tombstoning. While he flailed around on the inside, I’d edge over to the peak to take his vacated spot. But every time he’d blow one, there he’d come, walking back to the top of the point where he’d jump in and begin his paddle, trying to work around me to get back into pole position before the next set came. He tried this three times, each absurd walk around forcing me to paddle battle him all the way to the rock stack that marked the beginning of the takeoff zone. Finally, I boiled over with…

access_time4 min.
from the streets to the streets

1991 “He smiles, he laughs, he loves to have a good time, but the backhanded slaps of the street are still there, waiting to pay back the son-of-a-bitch who made him feel so bad.”- Steve Barilotti Through the 1990s, there was indeed no slap on the North Shore feared more than that from Pipe commander Johnny Boy Gomes, the bruising power surfer who, at 5’9" and 200 pounds, was built like a bulldozer with a ferocious temper to match. He struck fear into visiting surfers—regardless of who they were or where they came from—up and down the North Shore. Gomes swaggered menacingly and confidently up and down the beach, was a snarling presence in lineups all over the Seven Mile Miracle, and cultivated a hard-earned reputation for unpredictable violence. Gomes was a…

access_time1 min.
the kimbo twin-fin

“I’d been riding a lot of twin-fin eggs in smaller waves in the summer, but I wanted to make a bigger one for Blacks in the winter. So I was already planning on making an 8’0" round-tail egg, but before I did, my dog, Kimbo, passed away when I was out of town and my wife ended up getting him cremated and keeping his ashes. I didn’t really know what to do with them at first, but then I was talking to Alex [renowned glasser Alex Villalobos, aka Superwolf] and we thought it would be cool to put his ashes in a board somehow. We ended up using some of his ashes as the pin line. The board turned out great, and I’ve been surfing it at Blacks a lot,…

access_time3 min.
matt hoy, 48

“I’d like to see more people ride different boards, make themselves stand out. In my era—and before, actually—everybody had such a distinct style, nobody really compared to anyone.” Just get out there and make a go of it. I was doing badly in amateur events as a teenager, but Luke Egan grabbed me and said, “Fuck that amateur stuff. Come have a go at the Tour.” I told my mom I was leaving school to try to make it as a pro. She freaked, but I won the Bells trials that first year and I never looked back. The Tour should be an adventure. When I was young it still was. We used to all travel together because we had no money. We were like a band. We’d pack ourselves four to…

access_time11 min.
livin’enviably

“They let their surfing do the talking” has long been considered one of the highest compliments we, as a culture, can bestow upon a surfer. It implies a kind of humble disinterest in the spotlight of surf stardom, as if to say that how we ride waves is all that matters and the rest is just white noise. Over the past year, Koa Rothman’s surfing has done plenty of talking, with mind-blowing performances in kegging reef passes all around the world. But, then again, Rothman has had no problem letting his talking also do the talking. Rothman’s vlog, “This is Livin’”, started from a simple idea: pro surfers live wild lives, striking out across the globe in search of surf, often getting into all kinds of misadventures along the way—why not film…

help