category_outlined / Sports

Surfer December #59.7 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

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access_time3 min.
editor’s note

There’s an old saying about the band The Velvet Underground, which is that they didn’t sell many records, but everyone who bought one started a band. There’s some debate over who said it first, or if it’s actually just a misquote of Brian Eno, but either way it speaks to a fundamental truth about the ways in which art resonates with human beings, compelling them to internalize it, reinterpret it in a way that speaks more directly to their own experience and inevitably create something of their own.The universe is unfathomably big, life can be maddeningly perplexing and if you follow that thread too far you end up wearing all black, curled up in the fetal position under a stack of Frederick Nietzsche books. But if you feel confused about…

access_time5 min.
there goes my hero

I grew up surfing in a place where it was pretty much standard to have the lineup all to yourself. Or, if you were lucky, you might have a couple of friends to trade waves with. (This was in California, by the way—South of San Francisco, if you can believe it). Granted, you were alone because you were surfing the foggiest, coldest, most depressing closeouts or the weirdest, boil-ridden reefs you could possibly imagine. Still, empty, albeit imperfect, breaks were the norm. But, occasionally, I’d paddle out, look down the mostly-deserted beach and see a mysterious, hooded regularfoot stylishly working over an empty peak. Every time I’d glance in his direction, there he’d be, making a psychotically late drop, flinging a big arc of spray skyward after a high-velocity turn,…

access_time1 min.
jim phillips-inspired longboard 9'6" x 22 1/2"

“I started shaping when I was 10, just making boards in my garage,” says 18-year-old shaper and logger Zack Flores. “I started by watching Jim Phillips—I just sat in his room for 2 years watching him shape boards. Now I pretty much do everything myself and use Jim’s old templates. This longboard was a template from Jim. It’s really, really thin and knifed-out on the rails, which can be surfed more under the surface of the water. If you’re noseriding, it’s not like a heavy, thick log where you have a lot of foam on top of the water, so it’s faster and you can control it easier—it’s really like a huge mid-length. I always put a hard edge in the nose of my longboards for that little extra lift.…

access_time13 min.
the descendent

“The world is so fucking weird right now,” Noa Deane tells me over the phone from Australia, where he’s slept in past our original interview time, but is ready to wax philosophical now that the coffee is kicking in.He’s right about the world—especially his world. Deane went berserk upon arrival on the freesurfing stage, laying down the kinds of massive airs and searing turns that earned closing sections in top-tier surf films and drew immediate Reynoldsian comparisons. But the world that Deane inhabits today is much different than that of his high-flying, hard-turning predecessors. Professional freesurfing has receded from its early-2010s high-water mark as high-concept surf films have largely been replaced by mindless Instagram clips, and the pedestal where the world’s best freesurfers once resided has more or less toppled.…

access_time4 min.
the last place you’d check

“When people saw us walking around with boards, especially on the day when the swell was peaking and there was basically a blizzard, they’re like ‘You guys are crazy!’” says Graves.“I was out the back looking out towards the lake,” says Graves, “and there were swells going by that, if there had been the right setup for one of those swells to break, there could have very easily been a 20-foot wave breaking somewhere. We talked to a lighthouse keeper later, and he said that there are a lot of shipwrecks in the lake because the waves break at such short intervals. The lakes have more shipwrecks than almost anywhere. I had no clue that there was that much power there.”Last April, Puerto Rican surfer Dylan Graves hopped on a…

access_time16 min.
renegades of punts

Christian Fletcher, the progenitor of punts, doing his thing in the early Airshow days. (Photo by PETER TARAS)A very excited Ben Bourgeois, post Airshow win in Indonesia. (Photo by JEFF FLINDT)Airshow regular Gavin Beschen, with equal parts style and progression at Salt Creek. (Photo by PETER TARAS)Randy “Goose” Welch, newly-rich and rocking out in Santa Cruz. (Photo by PETER TARAS)SMAS competitors Micah Pitts, Ben Brough, Matt Rockhold, Kasey Curtis, Mike Morrissey and Jason “Ratboy” Collins. (Photo by PETER TARAS)Ona November day on the North Shore of Oahu in 1995, two bleary-eyed surfers walked into Storto’s Deli in Haleiwa looking to eat just about everything in sight. While this may be a common, longstanding post-surf ritual on the North Shore, the conversation that transpired between eccentric aerialist Shawn “Barney” Barron and…