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SurferSurfer

Surfer January 2016

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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16 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time1 min.
taking off

In the late ’70s and early ’80s, guys like Shaun Tomson and Dane Kealoha pioneered the pig-dog stance, a barrel-riding technique that was at first more functional than it was stylish. Pig-doging allowed surfers to drop in late and deep, but between the crouching, the ass draging, and the outside-rail death grip, it wasn’t exactly a graceful picture. Now, after a few decades of refinement, form has caught up to function, and the best surfers in the world have backside tube riding down to an art form. Here, Matt Wilkinson goes to town on a South African canvas. ■…

access_time4 min.
no cameras, please

A few months ago, I was on a surf trip to South Africa with a group of pros, and for reasons unknown, their cinematographer, Layne Stratton, frequently trained his lens on me when I stood up on a wave. At the end of the trip, Stratton sent me a reel of all my rides, which he’d captured on his ultra-high-definition camera. He thought he was doing me a favor, bless his heart.If you aren’t a professional surfer, whose livelihood depends on the constant improvement and refinement of your surfing ability, you probably don’t want to see yourself surf. There tends to be a disconnect between the way something feels in the water and the way it looks from the beach, and if you do see yourself surf, you’ll likely find…

access_time1 min.
surfer

(DRAWING BY JAMES JARVIS)EditorialEditor Todd ProdanovichPhoto Editor Grant EllisArt Director James NewittFeatures Editor Justin HousmanManaging Editor Ashton GogansAssociate Editor Ashtyn DouglasOnline Editor Davis JonesVideo Editor Bryce Lowe-WhiteVideo Production Assistant Alex KilauanoSocial Media Manager Garrett JamesHawaii Editor Jeff MullCopy Editor Kim StraversPhoto Assistant Sage BurgessContributing EditorsSteve Barilotti, Ray Bergman, Steve HawkSenior WritersSean Doherty, Matt George, Sam George, Derek Hynd, Drew Kampion, Ben Marcus, Brad Melekian, Joel Patterson, Lewis Samuels, Gabe Sullivan, Kimball Taylor, Matt WarshawContributing WritersTim Baker, Christian Beamish, Chris Dixon, William Finnegan, Alex French, Rob Gilley, Janna Irons, Bruce Jenkins, Michael Kew, Maxwell Klinger, Shea Lopez, Kirk OwersSurfer PhotographersChris Burkard, Tom Carey, Jason Childs, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Todd Glaser, Zak NoyleSenior PhotographersErik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Scott Aichner,Bernie Baker, Jeff Divine, Steve Fitzpatrick,Jon Frank, Pete Frieden, Anthony Ghiglia,Rob Gilley, Dylan…

access_time2 min.
1976 mark richards off the wall, hawaii

“Style is subjective.” We say it, but most of the time we’re just being polite. Everybody knows that the Style Fairy wasted precious little magic dust on Adriano de Souza, and none whatsoever on poor Glen Winton, while Tom Curren gets the stuff delivered weekly to his front door in a drum-size Sparkletts bottle. Pinpointing exactly why, and to what degree, de Souza is not Curren is a bit trickier. Style is like pornography in that sense: hard to define, but obvious nonetheless. You know it when you see it.Most of the time, anyway. Occasionally, maybe once a generation, a surfer will make a style claim so at odds with reigning flow lines and vortices that we actually don’t know it when we see it. Mark Richards flummoxed style arbiters…

access_time1 min.
finding form

Style is found in calmness, joy, the fine details of body language, spontaneity, agression (sometimes), and flow. It’s a most pleasurable show when these ingredients all come together. I love to watch Tom Curren, Kelia Moniz, Rob Machado, Joel Parkinson, Mason Ho, Alex Knost, Dave Rastovich, and Dane Reynolds. They’re all true performance artists, and it’s magic when they ride a wave.The most stylish people are born with the ability to not overthink, and to operate on feeling. When it comes to style, intuition is powerful, but I think style can be worked on—to a degree. Things like hand placement, posture, and where lines are drawn on a wave face can all be improved. But when feeling takes precedence over thought, the style that results is your own unique approach.I…

access_time5 min.
the freshness of surf fashion

Surf fashion unquestionably peaked in the early ’60s. Canvas trunks, ruged denim jeans, white T-shirts, cable-knit sweaters, aloha shirts, and cheap leather slaps formed the typical surfer’s wardrobe. Those weren’t necessarily even stylistic choices when you think about it; that was just the most functional clothing of the time for a surfer. Over the next few decades, surf style became its own marketable genre of fashion, leading to highperformance boardshorts and rash guards stocked proudly in Midwestern malls, the 1,000-yard stares of surf stars peering at customers from surf-brand billboards in cities all over the world. And the farther in time surf style got from the ’60s, the more garish and chaotic it all became. Surf fashion went barreling off the rails toward hideous, bagy boardshorts, terrible prints on T-shirts,…

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