category_outlined / Sports

Surfer January 2017

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

United States
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues


access_time1 min.
torrey meister, portugal

Of all the surfy disciplines one can pursue, slab surfing may allow the smallest margin for error. A mistimed paddle, an offset bottom turn, or a slow reaction to a step in the face could lead to a very unfortunate meeting between your head and the reef. But since slab surfing really took off in the early 2000s, its advancement has always relied on leaps of blind faith, where error is abundant. “You’re pretty much just sending it,” says Torrey Meister, pictured navigating a near-dry section at The Cave. “Waves that look good can be bad. Waves that look bad can be good. My advice? Make the drop and race as fast as you can.”…

access_time3 min.
can’t we all just get along(board)?

If you had asked me 10 years ago if my quiver would ever contain a longboard, I would have laughed in your face, pointed to my stack of nearly identical 5'10" thrusters, and said that real surfers ride shortboards, period. After all, my singular goal in surfing at the time was to stand up on a wave and belt the lip as hard as I could, as many times as I could, until all that was left was a mound of poor, helpless whitewater—which I would attempt to continue belting anyway. I thought I was making music, but in hindsight my surfing was much like a skipping record, obnoxiously playing the same part over and over again. It makes sense that my surfing was stuck in a closed loop for much…

access_time5 min.
whither the thruster?

I recently sold the very last “regular shortboard” in my garage. I parted with the beautiful custom-made 6'3" squashtail for a song, glad to trade it for the increased storage space. Hadn’t picked up the board for over a year anyway. I’ve still got a roundpin step-up in the mix in order to kid myself that I’m charging far harder than I actually am, but my quiver transformation is now basically complete. It’s morphed from 90 percent thrusters with a fish and a longboard for the down days to nothing but fish, mid-lengths, a log, a handplane, a couple soft-tops, and a gun. It was a strange feeling after I handed the board over, waved goodbye to its new owner, then turned to face my surfboard collection, defanged to its…

access_time2 min.
matt “archy” archbold 47, san clemente, california

“What’s interesting about everybody surfing the same way, wearing the same thing, singing the same song?” It’s important to stay true to yourself. My favorite surfer was Martin Potter. I liked how fast he went and how he used speed, but I never tried to copy his style. I always just did my own thing. You’re going to have your favorite surfers and you’ll like their style, but you have to stay true to yourself. You’re always learning as a parent. More than anything, fatherhood has taught me patience. My son is 25 now and I remember getting frustrated teaching him how to surf. You have to take a step back sometimes to be aware of yourself. Surfing isn’t easy, but you don’t always remember that if you’ve done it your whole life.…

access_time4 min.
tom morey, 1971

The first words of this six-page Age of Aquarius backyard-board-design dialectic go like this: “Hello. I am a spaceman. I am the spirits of Einstein, Thomas Edison, Alexander Graham Bell, and Bob Simmons, taken possession, temporarily, of the innocent body known here on earth [sic] as Tom Morey. I (we, really) am looking at your surfboards of today and thinking they are junk.” Most of what there is to know about Morey— surfer, inventor, theorist, fabulist; creator of the bodyboard and spray-on traction and maybe even professional surfing—is contained within those few lines. He is freethinking. He is funny. Impressive. Self-important. He wants to improve things—is hellbent on doing so. And in the process, he will grin and raise an eyebrow and talk some good-natured shit. “Space Boards” finds Morey in his…

access_time16 min.
shock waves

On a beautiful late-summer day in September 2015, Shawn Dollar was riding a wave at a remote break on the California coast when he fell and hit his head on a rock beneath the water. The impact broke his neck in four places and caused a massive concussion. Dollar once held the world record for the largest wave ever paddled into, and he’s been in plenty of terrifying situations in the ocean, but he had never experienced anything quite like this. Despite blinding pain, not being able to move his head, and total disorientation, Dollar was forced to summon whatever strength he could to get back to shore without drowning in a maelstrom of rocks and whitewater along the wave-beaten cliffs. Once on land, he navigated a tortuous hike to…