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SurferSurfer

Surfer June 2016

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time1 min.
alex gray, baja california

Conventional wisdom states that you should never drive away from a great wave to check another potentially better spot. But for Alex Gray, breaking this golden rule resulted in one of the best days of his life. “If you’re an adventurous surfer, sometimes you just have to load up some extra gas on the boat and cross your fingers,” Gray explains. “Gary Linden and I were surfing perfect 15- to 18-foot waves in the morning, but I just had a hunch that this other spot would be good. It’s usually a fickle break, and I wasn’t sure if the wind would hold up. But it ended up being the most incredible afternoon we could have asked for, glassy from sunup to sundown.”…

access_time4 min.
discomfort zone

By the time I reached the lineup at Todos Santos, I noticed that I was shaking slightly, and I gripped the rails of my board to try to steady myself. “I should really get a new 4/3,” I thought. “One with better seams for these early Baja mornings.”But the shaking probably had less to do with water temperature and more to do with the fact that I had just watched Anthony Tashnick kick out of an evil-looking triple-overhead wave less than 20 yards away. My seams were fine. My nerves, not so much.To be clear, I had no business being in the lineup at Todos on a 10- to 15-foot day. I crossed the border to cover a big-wave competition, but I carpooled with San Diego charger Jojo Roper, who…

access_time1 min.
lost treasure

That’s how New Jersey’s Rob Kelly describes his latest trip–an exploratory surf mission to Central America accompanied by photographer Ricky Lesser and Waterways Surf Adventures’ President Sean Murphy leading the way.“The whole vibe of the surfing on this trip felt more like being in Indonesia or something,” Kelly said. “Except here we didn’t see any other boats or any other surfers. The gamble on early season often pays out more than just swell.“The highlight of the trip for me was a day we had at XXXXXXXXXX. The swell wasn’t even supposed to really start showing until the end of the day, but when we rode out to the first spot in the morning it was already pumping. We surfed from sunrise to sunset, followed the tide to different spots and…

access_time4 min.
pe’ahi’s finest

(PHOTO BY AEDER)SHANE DORIANFebruary 10, 2016“THIS BARREL WAS PROBABLY the best wave of the year so far,” says Layer. “It might not have been the tallest wave, but sometimes a 20-footer can be much gnarlier than a 40-footer at Jaws. It had a lot of water behind it. We’ve all seen waves like that out there, but it takes a lot of balls to take off really, really deep like Shane did. It looked like a closeout from the channel. It was a full Hail Mary, but he’s the only one who could look at a wave like that and think that it might be makeable. It wasn’t a perfect barrel by any means; it was bumpy and there were chandelier sections. For him to draw a line through all…

access_time3 min.
waimea bay 1969

Surf media in our Age of Internet Wonder is absolutely bearhugging big waves, and from my end of the screen it is a joy. All that technology and information, the production-team manpower, truckloads of hardware, suites of software, everything aimed at a swell event rolling like a Panzer division into a contest window, then mixed and uploaded and streamed into my overheating MacBook Pro. Purple blobs, yellow lights, green lights, Condition Black, the surfer in orange needs a score in the excellent range to move into first. Four camera angles, minimum. Forget the highlights, forget the wrap-up. It has to be real time, with multi-view replay, and my Twitter feed on the side. Take it right up to the edge of overkill… then cross the line. I want to wake…

access_time13 min.
once more unto the breach

There’s no rest for the big-wave elite, and Long found himself chasing plenty of XXL swells from Maui to Mavericks (pictured here) and beyond, often over consecutive days. (Photo by Stacy)ON A SUNNY AFTERNOON THIS FEBRUARY, I stepped into a sleepy café in Half Moon Bay, California, to meet Greg Long. The San Clemente native had surfed his way into the finals of the Titans of Mavericks event the day before, and a few minutes after I arrived, he walked through the door with a limp—the result of a leg strain after being gobbled up by an ocean’s worth of whitewater on his last wave of the contest. He gave me a gentle smile, offered a firm handshake, and we sat down to talk. I wanted to hear about what…

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